1 Attachment(s)
Whoops, I did a thing:
Attachment 232567 SR20 T25 in need of a rebuild. It's small but I feel that having the T25 flange will give me a lot of upgrade room in the future. I think I am going to shoot for 220whp on E85 which should be do-able without too much boost I would think |
Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
(Post 1295857)
Whoops, I did a thing:
https://i.imgur.com/a2BU1QN.jpg?1 SR20 T25 in need of a rebuild. It's small but I feel that having the T25 flange will give me a lot of upgrade room in the future. I think I am going to shoot for 220whp on E85 which should be do-able without too much boost I would think |
^Those T25s are all over the 240sx forums from people putting bigger turbos on their SR20s. Shouldn't be too hard to find one.
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Originally Posted by loveSONG769
(Post 1296155)
where did you guys find the turbo..... I tried, but just could not find a good used turbo. and a new one costs $1000.:facepalm:
Originally Posted by Onyxyth
(Post 1296170)
^Those T25s are all over the 240sx forums from people putting bigger turbos on their SR20s. Shouldn't be too hard to find one.
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1 Attachment(s)
Alright anybody got any issue with this purchase? I have the NB Sport front brakes, and 1.8L rear brakes. It will be a casual weekend racer with both autocross and light track duty. Porterfield's front and rear w/ Prop valve and I'll be running ATE Super 200.
Attachment 232566 |
Dont do it.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1300340)
Dont do it.
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I was just being rude. I went with the XP pads. 8 and 10 I think, but those might be not so good for a daily. There are a ton of brake pad comparisons on here.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1300342)
I was just being rude. I went with the XP pads. 8 and 10 I think, but those might be not so good for a daily. There are a ton of brake pad comparisons on here.
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While this isn't an apples to apples comparison (since mine are the TSE 11.75 front), I run the XP10/8 combo. When we went for a ride at 45-50 degrees, they still worked great, even when I first left my house. I expected them to be very dull at low temperatures, but they surprisingly work great. With that said, before they were fully bedded in, they were scary at low temps.
If you're going on a road track, I would go overkill on brakes. That's why I narrowed my choice down to XP10/8, and if I would've waited a few weeks until OGRacing posted about the PFC011's, I would've gotten those. That's what my roommate runs, and he loves them. The PFC's do have a lot of dust and noise. My XP10/8's only have a very slight squeek at low speeds, if you're soft on the brakes, but dust isn't too bad. TLDR: Either put up with noise and dust or have two sets of pads. |
Porterfields lasted just one track day (total noob) for me. Worn down almost to the metal.
Performance Friction race pads for the track for me now- let's see how long they'll last. But I don't think they have 1.8l rear pads. |
Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
(Post 1300322)
Alright anybody got any issue with this purchase? I have the NB Sport front brakes, and 1.8L rear brakes. It will be a casual weekend racer with both autocross and light track duty. Porterfield's front and rear w/ Prop valve and I'll be running ATE Super
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Originally Posted by slowcarfast
(Post 1300503)
Words and things...
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Originally Posted by acedeuce802
(Post 1300348)
While this isn't an apples to apples comparison (since mine are the TSE 11.75 front), I run the XP10/8 combo. When we went for a ride at 45-50 degrees, they still worked great, even when I first left my house. I expected them to be very dull at low temperatures, but they surprisingly work great. With that said, before they were fully bedded in, they were scary at low temps.
If you're going on a road track, I would go overkill on brakes. That's why I narrowed my choice down to XP10/8, and if I would've waited a few weeks until OGRacing posted about the PFC011's, I would've gotten those. That's what my roommate runs, and he loves them. The PFC's do have a lot of dust and noise. My XP10/8's only have a very slight squeek at low speeds, if you're soft on the brakes, but dust isn't too bad. TLDR: Either put up with noise and dust or have two sets of pads. To the others I got the Sport brake hardware for a hell of a deal. Think it was like $50 plus shipping so I couldn't pass it up. Eventually I'll step up to the 11.75" setup. Ordering the XP10/8's now and I'll see how they work. |
3 Attachment(s)
Okay guys so bit of an update: The winter has been long and hard on my bank account but I have made some small steps. Firstly I set out to fix that damage on the rear quarter panel. I decided since it was a track car I will do it myself (Learning process) using a spot welder. For those who don't know basically you need to strip the paint (see below) and you can weld these little studs onto the body. Once on you use a slide hammer to pull it out. These are the first pictures, I'll do more today. Obviously you apply bondo and repaint when done.
Attachment 232563 I was told racecars don't need paint #weightreduction Attachment 232564 Some of the studs welded on: Attachment 232565 |
3 Attachment(s)
Also it might be a month or two before I go turbo so I installed a test pipe. It was cheap (obviously) and I assume it'll free up 1-2 hp or so but not enough for the butt dyno to feel.
Shiny: Attachment 232560 Old/New: Attachment 232561 In: Attachment 232562 Conclusions... It's a cheap an easy way to drop a tiny bit of weight, free up a hp or two, and increase sound a tad. For me getting an NA exhaust only to upgrade to a 3 inch won't be worth it so that'll have to do. The butt dyno says it feels a little bit more peppy but nothing quantifiable. I'll be bumping up the timing in the next week as well as a harddog double X rollbar if all goes well. Cheers! |
Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
(Post 1296171)
Yep I bought mine second-hand off a member here for about ~150. They can be found on the 240 forums for cheap it just takes a lot of patience.
EDIT: looking closer at OP's photo of his turbo it is an m24. Can someone please clear up my confusion. |
It might be easier to beat some of that out from the inside, then to use the weld on studs. Probably faster too.
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Bout half or more is hard to get to beating coz it's in the tunnel.
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2 Attachment(s)
Update:
So I've finally got some forward movement. Here's the gameplan... MIATAATATATA Phase 1: Maintenance (Oil, coolant, brake fluid, air filter): Done! Phase 2: Safety (Roll-bar, Brakes, Lines): Almost done Phase 3: Track-ready (Tires, suspension, alignment): Not Done Phase 4: Driver prep (Get more track time and adjust setup as needed): Not done Phase 5: Getting there (MS3X, Injectors, Get it running): Not done Phase 6: Throw the damn turbo on (Throw the damn turbo on): Not done Oh and this is happening: Attachment 232558 Also I was able to take the car to work and I found one big thing out... The radio blows dick. I can barely hear it. I ended up just putting my phone with Spotify on in the cup-holder and it was an improvement in volume and quality. SO the radio and speakers came out. Need that space for gauges anyways :) Attachment 232559 |
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