Good ebay fmu to buy?
 

Looking for a good fmu for around 7-8 psi.
Any ebay suggestions?
Nothing to expensive, planning to upgrade to a megasquirt at some point in the future.

hey noob sauce, post in the Meet and Greet, and say hi.


I will be the nicest reply your going to get now.
Just watch.



Don't be a douche, and at least get a BEGi FMU or equivelent, if you must have band-aids.

I have band-aids still, and so I know. I have a Mallory fuel system beside pump and it works, but I still need MS.

Do the smart thing tho, just save for MS, I didnt and now im regretting it. I still will get it but not as soon as I would have if I just focused on it.

A used Begi AFPR is better than a new Ebay FMU. Be aware, there are fake BEGI AFPR's out there.

10 to 1 ratio will keep you safe for a while.

Then when you are ready to do it right MS PNP

Thanks for the replies guys, sadly before I started reading anything online I already went down the path of self destruction. I welcome it honestly as this is an entirely new learning experiance for me.

As for not wanting to spend a ton of cash, I have my reasons. For one im in college. Well this may make me look like a scrub, but not everyone is made/born into cash that can just go out and buy the best of everything. Trust me if I could I wouldent be posting questions as I have as I know the best way to get things done.

On this note, I wonder how well this would work
http://www.frsport.com/Megan-Racing-...e_p_12662.html

Not at all for what you need to do.

If you do not understand the difference between a RRFPR and what you posted, you need to read more. You are over your head.

Study more and you will make far fewer regrettable decisions. And welcome.

Thats what im trying to find. Trust me I know the difr between the two. I called megan and thats what they suggested. I sorta realised that wouldent be that great, I mean i dont want that much fuel runing to my engine at idle.. lol.

I'm prolly going to go with an apexi afc neo. Unless someone can suggest a cheap megasquirt deal that can also controll the timing(which I beleive is a far bit more pricey) and on that note, Wouldent I aslo need a wideband sensor between the cat/downpipe? with a megasquirt that is.

:facepalm: I don't trust you due to posts like this ^. I'm going to break this down.

1. Braineack, myself, Wayne_Curr, and several other people on this board can build you a complete standalone megasquirt for about $100 dollars more than an AFC Neo, so it isn't *that* much more than wasting your money on an AFC.

2. I feel like I post this shit at least once a week, but I'm just going to crosspost from the last time I said this :

Ok bitches, its threadjack time:giggle:

I am going to be running e85 and larger injectors, but probably not large enough to reach my goal without bumping up the pressure at least a little bit. (considering the id1000's but due to having to hack the wiring might go with DW 600's and bump up the pressure to reach 350whp which shouldn't take too much).

So with that in mind:

WHAT ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE REGULATOR CAN I GET ON A BUDGET??

(this is kinda helping the OP too:D)

PS: yes I know what the GOOD (read: expensive) ones are. But what about the cheaper ones that will "get er done" just as well?

To the OP:

I realize that I probably come off like a dick. I'm not :D. I just want to save you from doing things you will only regret later.

Welcome to the site btw.

Cheap? maybe if the megasquirt could do all that by just buying it and thats it, but im fairly certain for some of the functions of megasquirt to work you also need a wideband which for the total setup is not cheap at all. Now I never used megasquirt so I could be wrong but from doing my own research I am fairly certain I am correct.

Now with the comment about the afc, first of all the AFC is an idea - not something im set in stone on doing. I seen the neo work on cars and I also hear alot of gearheads refering to them as a decent goto fix over an RRPFR. Now with all that stated, someone on this forum actually offered me a used begi RRFPR which I am honestly considering. I dont have much money to work with here and im just looking for a temp fix for all honesty.

You aren't.

On any aftermarket boosted car, you should be running a wideband, not doing so is like asking to blow your shit up. It is seriously probably the best diagnostic tool you will ever use on your car, and it is cheap. LC-1s can be had as low as $180.

I'm not saying a megasquirt setup isn't more expensive. It is (esp. when you count injectors). But when you consider that You are looking at about $300-400 more to do it right in one shot, vs the cost of replacing your motor -OR- paying twice for shit.....Doesn't that make sense?

Then save up and do it right the first time.

Your first mod should be a DD.

First, there are a good amount of people on this forum who are in college and broke, so that is not a reason to try to cheap out and most likely blow your motor.

Second, If you cannot afford a MS and a LC-1 then you can not afford to boost your car.

Since your in college and on a budget the first thing you should do is get the MS and LC-1. Then once you have that installed and have learned how to tune, then and only then should you move on to adding a turbo.

You're going to need a wideband to tune any sort of fuel management whether its the RRFPR or electronic.

+ 1 i had my car widebanded and squirted about 3 months before my turbo. I sure am happy i did. Then, i just clicked the autotune button and had the AFR's i wanted.

Also, cheap wideband? Although i only have 80 into mine, you could do one for 120.

Step one: Buy that.
http://www.14point7.com/Widebands/NAW_7S/NAW_7S.htm

Step 2. Go to a pic n pull and find a wrecked newer VW with a five wire o2 sensor. I paid 10 bucks for mine.

Or buy a LC1.

Seriously. I have a SAFC laying here though, 50 bucks and its yours. I have been wanting to unload it on someone.

Edit: post your mods, i hope to god that turbo isn't on there yet.

awesome for its price:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4305M/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13109/?rtype=10

Nah I actually been slowly working on my tranny. Bought the flying miata Clutch+10.3pound flywheel deal from them. The turbo itself is a t25/t28

Turbo Specs

Oil cooled and water cooled

Compressor Specs :
1.70" Compressor Inlet
1.685" or 42.81mm inducer
2.362" or 60.00mm Major
Compressor .80 A.R.
M24 T2 Compressor Housing

Turbine Specs :
1.850" Exducer
Turbine .86 A.R.
2.090" or 53.10mm Major
1.820" or 46.25mm Minor

Aside from that, I been getting the peices I need to actually do the install and the fmu/megasquirt is up on my list and is pretty much the last thing I need to actually install the turbo.

Not only that but I have been doing major work elswhere on the car, new shocks, new paint job, new brakes and the autokonexion widebody kit which I also molded and left it as primer over winter to test for cracks so I can paint this summer. I got some more bodywork to do as well as finish with the tranny + turbo.
Thats just some of the larger things I have done.

At some point I plan on throwing in a brand new motor, and that would also be the point where I would do a more exspensive turbo setup.
I have plans for the car, its been one of my bigest dreams I wanted to do ever since I was about 16 years old.
I'll be the first to admit this is the first time I ever done anything with a turbo, that should be pretty obvious. Ive researched day and night, hung out with mechanics and believe I have a pretty good idea about the setup. Do I have the experiance that persay someone does thats been doing it for over 10 years? No I dont, but ill learn.. im a tech junky and I love tinkering with things.

Thanx a bunch man:)

Please go to the Meet and Greet section and make an intro post and post about your car and put up where you are located.

Yet again, DO NOT INSTALL A TURBO until you have installed MS and a wideband 02 sensor and spent some time learning how to use it.

Next you have not mentioned what manifold or downpipe you are planning on using. Also what you are actually doing with the transmission?

Well the clutch thats in my car its pretty obvious the throwout bearing is going bad so I just decided that because I have plans to turbo, that I would also put in a new clutch/bearing and the lighter flywheel. The tranny is out and my car is jacked, I just need to go out there and actually take off the flywheel. Maybe this weekend coming up.

Ill go do the meet and greet post here in a few, just got done watching lost and now im watching V.

I am assuming that you bought the FM1 clutch correct?

Yep that would be it.

If you gotta use a rising rate regulator, mine is the best one. Goes w/o saying, of course. It doesn't hold a match stick to a meagersquirt, but a band aid don't add fuel....

If you buy a used begi it can be updated easily.

I'd urge not using some fixed rate dude, and not 10 to 1 either.

Corky

Autokonexion widebody 1200... Sell it, and get stuff to keep it on the road. Such as a megasquirt and a wideband, and hell, some injectors too.

^This.

Wideband first or you will likely blow your engine. That seems to be a point of consensus among all of us. Or you can ignore us because we are all wrong and you know better.

I put the "go" before the "show" in my car so I don't understand the logic in putting a body kit on a slow car. I believe that adding to the substance of the vehicle should be a higher priority than shiny bits stapled on the outside. If you don't get the fuel/spark management right before you add the turbo you will have a shiny car to sit in and listen to the radio on sunny afternoons that won't run. How many excited noobs blow up their engines after trying to force a bad situation and do things half-assed before they are ready? Most of them. We are only trying to help prevent strife in your life with these suggestions. You may still choose to invite strife into your life if you desire, but remember our efforts on your behalf. Look around here at the build threads. We are mostly poor and are trying to build on a budget, too. Many of us have made these mistakes and have stories and advice to give. Study the build threads and learn form the mistakes of others that you may avoid them.

BTW, your turbo specs out to be a gt2560 equivalent. You should refer to it as a Chinese 2560 whenever discussing it on this forum so that others won't have to figure out what size you are talking about. Good luck.

Guess im just going to hold off on the install untill I can afford a Ms + wideband. Thanks guys.

Sometimes you just have to be patient with things, save your money and do it right the first time and have a reliable DD. I am assuming your car runs good now. Take it to some track events and learn to drive the car too it's max, now that way when you add all your goodies you will be able to handle to power. All my friend that are broke, are some of the best drivers because they take there under powered car and drive the shit out of them and keep up with people that dump tons of money in there car. One of my friends bought a 91 eunos (miata) for a $100 and saved it from seeing the crusher man. He drove the living shit out of that car. I seen him completely leave a R32 GTR on night in the mountains til the point you couldn't see the guys headlight and the GTR had suspension and power mods. Point in my story is if you don't have all the money in the world you still can enjoy these cars even in stock form.

I would love to have seen the look on the GTR guy's face!