DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?
View Poll Results: Which would you choose on a 1.6L
GT2554R
32.86%
GT2560R
32.86%
GT2860R
11.43%
T3 50 Trim Chinacharger
11.43%
ALLOFIT
17.14%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 70. You may not vote on this poll

GT2554R VS GT2560R VS GT2860R VS T3 50 Trim

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Old 10-18-2016, 01:04 PM
  #21  
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At least he has somewhat of a legit reason for sticking 1.6 (gubment and whatnot).

the people that choose 1.6 for less reasons than that are the real duds
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:01 PM
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GT1752S it is then... to make it your worth while.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:02 PM
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Better yet a GT3582R and 2 big ones to spool it up
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:35 PM
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Enter the 1.6l triple-compound-boost setup. One GT2554R on the manifold and two staggered big guys like a 2871 and a 3582 in the trunk. Over to Pat.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:41 PM
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Look all these "all of it" retards are dissing the 1600 bad, things over there are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper. Easier to source etc.

You HAVE a 1600 and have only casual competitive targets at this point.

Turbo your 1600 and have a ball like I am. For your reference I run the Gt2860r (i think there is an s in there somewhere too..?) we have made 270 whp with a tune i was not happy to run in wheel 2 wheel racing (for reliability reasons and cost containment) and have since backed it down to around 240 whp. Would have been fine on the road where sitting at 100% throttle is very rare and of short duration. 200+ whp in an Mx5 makes a pretty quick car.

Mine is a low mount semi log and spools reasonably around 3k and 15/16 psi boost around 3 1/2 maybe slightly higher.

Reality is any of the turbos you are looking at will have benefits and disadvantages...the best advice is to just pick one and enjoy. smaller on the road is a LOT more fun, bigger on the track is a LOT more fun....

my shitty, un MT.net approved 1600 is a fun, cheap to run and competitive in my series car. Dont get hung up on the "specs" and get all internetty...just build it. You'll love it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
Look all these "all of it" retards are dissing the 1600 bad, things over there are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper. Easier to source etc.

You HAVE a 1600 and have only casual competitive targets at this point.

Turbo your 1600 and have a ball like I am. For your reference I run the Gt2860r (i think there is an s in there somewhere too..?) we have made 270 whp with a tune i was not happy to run in wheel 2 wheel racing (for reliability reasons and cost containment) and have since backed it down to around 240 whp. Would have been fine on the road where sitting at 100% throttle is very rare and of short duration. 200+ whp in an Mx5 makes a pretty quick car.

Mine is a low mount semi log and spools reasonably around 3k and 15/16 psi boost around 3 1/2 maybe slightly higher.

Reality is any of the turbos you are looking at will have benefits and disadvantages...the best advice is to just pick one and enjoy. smaller on the road is a LOT more fun, bigger on the track is a LOT more fun....

my shitty, un MT.net approved 1600 is a fun, cheap to run and competitive in my series car. Dont get hung up on the "specs" and get all internetty...just build it. You'll love it.
What CR do you run on track with your GT2860rs and custom manifold?

IMO, it'll come down to total use. Track (high rpm) vs street (mid-high rpm). I mostly do street and hardly ever go past 6k on a normal day. I would even prefer a stock IHI or a more efficient equal at this point...
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:05 PM
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Current motor is a stock 1600 NB...not sure what CR they run. Race motor currently being built is using 949 Racing Supertech 8.8:1 pistons from memory.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:26 PM
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anti-2860r
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
Why would hitting overboost protection kill the engine?
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
Look all these "all of it" retards are dissing the 1600 bad, things over there are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper. Easier to source etc.
I'm dissing it at a 200rwhp level... the area under curve is atrocious.

The bigger a turbo on a 1.6L the worse it gets. If you going to stay with a 1.6L, then stay with a smaller turbo. Like 2560 and below. A large turbo is only going to spool slower and slower just to make a bit more top end where you're limited by rods anyway.

I'd much rather have the torque in a usable area:



that's the difference between a 62 trim and 50 trim compressor wheel T3 on a 1.6L -- all other things being equal
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:51 AM
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The Dutch gubment/road tax argument is no valid reason not to swap in a 1.8. Especially when adding a turbo. You will not get taxed more, you will not get checked. Pass APK/emissions and you're golden. 1.8 or bust.

This is coming from a former inhabitant of dutchland.
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by stefanst
Why would hitting overboost protection kill the engine?
In the video he is saying that overboost stopped the oil for a split second, not true, oil is mechanical, as long as engine is spinning there is oil pressure, so overboost protection simply cut fuel/spark for that second, but engine was still spinning.

Now, how i see the overboost protection killing the engine, is the engine was under full load/high boost and all of a sudden spark was cut and it made a sudden slow down jolt in the engine bending a rod. (my theory, i could be wrong).
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:16 PM
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Y'all are acting like he gave a professional analysis.

It's just a guy guessing why his engine splooged. The real reason is likely cause it was super tired, abused, and at the limit of the rods anyway.

Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
Look all these "all of it" retards are dissing the 1600 bad, things over there are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper. Easier to source etc.

You HAVE a 1600 and have only casual competitive targets at this point.

Turbo your 1600 and have a ball like I am. For your reference I run the Gt2860r (i think there is an s in there somewhere too..?) we have made 270 whp with a tune i was not happy to run in wheel 2 wheel racing (for reliability reasons and cost containment) and have since backed it down to around 240 whp. Would have been fine on the road where sitting at 100% throttle is very rare and of short duration. 200+ whp in an Mx5 makes a pretty quick car.

Mine is a low mount semi log and spools reasonably around 3k and 15/16 psi boost around 3 1/2 maybe slightly higher.

Reality is any of the turbos you are looking at will have benefits and disadvantages...the best advice is to just pick one and enjoy. smaller on the road is a LOT more fun, bigger on the track is a LOT more fun....

my shitty, un MT.net approved 1600 is a fun, cheap to run and competitive in my series car. Dont get hung up on the "specs" and get all internetty...just build it. You'll love it.
I wish you took your own advice and stopped being such a hyprocrite "anti-hater" hater
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:17 PM
  #34  
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Hasn't the pass run a 1600 for awhile? I have and I presume many others. successfully.

A guy comes on here and asks a specific question, what turbo is best for my 1600, as is common and boring practice, the usual suspects replies are ditch the 1600. Not just once but over and over.

We get it. 1800 is better. get off the fricking soap box. Some of us WANT or CHOOSE or HAVE to run a 1600.

Sure make sure he is aware of it but does it have to get pummeled every time?

ps. If you think my words are hate, you want to try being on the receiving of your charm and wit some time....
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:22 PM
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Don't like it? Get out. And take your tampons with you.
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:23 PM
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:33 PM
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Infraction, -1 point. Very mature. Sensitive much?
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
test me
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
Infraction, -1 point. Very mature. Sensitive much?
Sorry to disappoint. Fixed my mistake.
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:57 PM
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Lol, he was an alright guy when he wasn't trying to white night. Oh well.
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