Help with 1997 1.8L turbo build?!?
01-14-2019, 10:37 PM
#1
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Help with 1997 1.8L turbo build?!?
I know everyone hates on eBay turbo kits and i understand why but I’m definitely on a budget but would be willing to save more if it was definitely worth it. Can anyone give me some steps to bring to take to turbo a stock 1997 mx5 Miata. If i could get to 200+ hp I’d be super happy with that. Would a cheap kit like this be any good? And yes i have done my research and I’ve seen where these can be ran reliably especially on low boost. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263885536187
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01-15-2019, 01:24 AM
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I know everyone hates on eBay turbo kits and i understand why but I’m definitely on a budget but would be willing to save more if it was definitely worth it. Can anyone give me some steps to bring to take to turbo a stock 1997 mx5 Miata. If i could get to 200+ hp I’d be super happy with that. Would a cheap kit like this be any good? And yes i have done my research and I’ve seen where these can be ran reliably especially on low boost. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263885536187
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01-15-2019, 03:47 AM
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Must have for super budget:
1. ebay cast iron manifold: 100$~
2. wideband + ecu: 800-1000$
3. TD04 turbo 200$~
4. IC + piping 200$~
5. custom down pipe 400$~
6. air filter, turbo oil and water lines, bov 200$~
7. installation + oil pan drill for turbo oil return ???$
8. tune (!!)
Under 200whp you don't need a clutch and not even injectors - you can see how dangerous you run them via the "duty cycle" on the ecu (85% max is default normal)
"stage 2" must have:
- injectors
- clutch
- exhaust - 2.5"-3"
1. ebay cast iron manifold: 100$~
2. wideband + ecu: 800-1000$
3. TD04 turbo 200$~
4. IC + piping 200$~
5. custom down pipe 400$~
6. air filter, turbo oil and water lines, bov 200$~
7. installation + oil pan drill for turbo oil return ???$
8. tune (!!)
Under 200whp you don't need a clutch and not even injectors - you can see how dangerous you run them via the "duty cycle" on the ecu (85% max is default normal)
"stage 2" must have:
- injectors
- clutch
- exhaust - 2.5"-3"
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01-15-2019, 05:32 AM
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200whp required injectors for my 96. It also required a clutch.
If you can't afford those maybe you should wait until you are promoted to Senior Burger Flipper before continuing.
If you can't afford those maybe you should wait until you are promoted to Senior Burger Flipper before continuing.
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01-15-2019, 08:50 AM
#9
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There are even cheap ECU options now for budget builds. Can get a Speeduino PnP unit for a 1.6 for under $275. The non plug and play one (needed for later cars) is even a bit cheaper.
No excuse to run junk piggy backs anymore, even on "budget" builds.
No excuse to run junk piggy backs anymore, even on "budget" builds.
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01-16-2019, 06:41 AM
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Above 85% duty cycle is effectively always open so it isn't adding more fuel at that point, just getting leaner. They are EV1 injectors, after all, and have very slow opening and closing times. You would need to significantly increase the fuel pressure on an NA from its 43psi standard to flow enough for much of any boost and wouldn't have headroom for fluctuations in requirements due to cooler weather or a boost spike.
Please don't recommend foolish actions to noobs here.
EDIT: Finally made it to a computer. According to the fuel injection calculator the NA8 265cc injector is good for 171 crank HP at 85% DC, or about 150whp. That's with a boost referenced fuel rail starting at 43.5psi. 150 is not 200 unless you are using the European style of horsepower measurement where everything is inflated by huge %%%.
Last edited by sixshooter; 01-16-2019 at 08:19 AM.
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01-24-2019, 03:29 AM
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FM kit (the one with the voodoo box) retain the stock injectors and boost around 5psi~
My stock clutch and the same on other cars I tuned - could hold about 10psi (200whp) before slipping.
My stock clutch and the same on other cars I tuned - could hold about 10psi (200whp) before slipping.
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