Help choose a turbo
I've decided to go the chinacharger route. My limited turbo knowledge is making the decision difficult because I have know clue as to what performance to expected based upon the different compressor wheel values. Please help. I am pretty sure that I will follow levnubins route with this turbo since it seems to be closer to a 2871:
Turbo charger Drift T28 GT2860 SR20det KA24de S13 S14:eBay Motors (item 200381756402 end time Sep-14-09 23:42:14 PDT) but, How will this turbo respond? GT28 GT2870 Turbo Charger internal wastegate .86 A/R:eBay Motors (item 200381524992 end time Sep-14-09 08:11:02 PDT) My new engine is a 1.8, will have forged internals, 99 head, 550cc injectors, and a lot of other things recommended on this site. |
what is ur goal?
what are u doing with the car? |
My goal is very loose at the moment. 300+ is what I'm thinking. Initially 300, but it seems like the more power i make the more I want. I'm trying to build a track car that I drive on the street. (As retarded as that sounds) It will see only a couple of track days a year. I will also state that I have never been in a 300 whp miata so all of this "want" is pretty much talking out the ass.
My 2554 spools like crazy then falls on it's face. I want a lot more mid to top end punch. I don't need it to spool like the 2554, but I'm sure I don't want to count off five seconds before the power comes on. Finally: The most petty thing that I need to achieve is the ability to really surprise people in higher end sports cars on the highway I guess it will probably be best to choose the one that will offer the best all around driving experience. |
2860
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Thanks, I looked at the compressor map for the 2871. (what the ebay 2860 actually approximates) It appears that 300hp - 350hp is still in the efficiency range.
I don't realistically see going over 350hp ebay 2860 appears to be best choice, but I hope that others still chime in with their facts/opinions. Thanks |
not trying to thread jack, but i'm looking for a chinacharger as well. my goal isnt quite as lofty though. i'd like to make 250whp, and have it spool up fairly quickly. my car is strictly street driven, ~3k miles a year.
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Originally Posted by DrewLGT
(Post 453551)
not trying to thread jack, but i'm looking for a chinacharger as well. my goal isnt quite as lofty though. i'd like to make 250whp, and have it spool up fairly quickly. my car is strictly street driven, ~3k miles a year.
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Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 453565)
I would look at the ebay store from the links above. They seem to have good customer service from what I hear, and a 1 yr replacement warranty on the turbos. Not bad for 300 shipped new. oh, I would bet that a 2560 would be consensus for your turbo choice. :2cents:
this is as close as i could find to a garret 2560, it seems to be a little bit smaller though. T25 Turbo Charger internal wastegated Mazda Miata MX-5:eBay Motors (item 200382311246 end time Sep-16-09 13:54:07 PDT) anyone have this chinacharger? |
The first turbo seems similar to what I'm running now. Todays data log shows post starting after 3000 rpms, and 6psi or so right around 6000. Now I have no run the car again since tightening the actuator arm, or cranking down the clamps on the induction and exhaust. Also consider this is straight downpipe nothing else at the moment.
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u need a boost controller ^
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Originally Posted by tyson87
(Post 453759)
u need a boost controller ^
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China 3071
I've been set on the ebay 2860 (which seems to spec to a 2871) from my initial post, but now I have been reading about how good the spool is on the Garrett 3071. Has anyone run across a chinacharger that specs the same as one of these 3071 turbos. Based on dyno charts it doesn't seem like the spool difference between the particular 3071 being discussed and 2871 is much different.
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Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 453526)
My goal is very loose at the moment. 300+ is what I'm thinking. Initially 300, but it seems like the more power i make the more I want. I'm trying to build a track car that I drive on the street. (As retarded as that sounds) It will see only a couple of track days a year. I will also state that I have never been in a 300 whp miata so all of this "want" is pretty much talking out the ass.
My 2554 spools like crazy then falls on it's face. I want a lot more mid to top end punch. I don't need it to spool like the 2554, but I'm sure I don't want to count off five seconds before the power comes on. Finally: The most petty thing that I need to achieve is the ability to really surprise people in higher end sports cars on the highway I guess it will probably be best to choose the one that will offer the best all around driving experience. Normal use.. I bet you'd be happy with 260-270 and a 2860 spool. |
Thanks just trying to get everything in order now that my motor is getting ready to come back from the machine shop.
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tubular manifold? It makes a huge difference. I'm talking almost 1000rpm improvement on target boost threshold and output.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 490772)
tubular manifold? It makes a huge difference. I'm talking almost 1000rpm improvement on target boost threshold and output.
To the OP, you could get very close to your stated goal of 300 wheel with the little 2560, with a bit better spool, if the engine build is optimized. Ref the NE dyno day thread for a couple of guys doing just this. Granted, not the norm for this turbo, but possible. You will really exceed your goals with the 30R. Flame away. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 490772)
tubular manifold? It makes a huge difference. I'm talking almost 1000rpm improvement on target boost threshold and output.
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Originally Posted by Newbsauce
(Post 490747)
Highway (surprising those high end sports cars).. you'll want that 300 rwhp.
Normal use.. I bet you'd be happy with 260-270 and a 2860 spool. I rarely ever go to full throttle on the street. Just a thought |
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 490805)
I rarely ever go to full throttle on the street. Just a thought
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Originally Posted by Newbsauce
(Post 490811)
Then you need to man up and start burning some gas :noob:
But, seriously, I'd love to see someone here post a tps histogram that shows any meaningfully high frequencies above the tps>50% bins in street driving. This person will either be dead or in jail. Just sayin... |
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 490800)
I've got a new Begi cast manifold in the garage. A tubular manifold just didn't fall into the build budget. 1000 rpm is very significant gain in spool. I only thought a 300-500 rpm change would be what a person would see going from a good cast manifold to a tubular.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 490869)
I went from the BEGi cast anchor to the ABSURDness.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 490772)
tubular manifold? It makes a huge difference. I'm talking almost 1000rpm improvement on target boost threshold and output.
If I could gain even 500rpm of spool with the tubular alone, 1. I'd be surprised, pleasantly, and 2. I'd lick the hot pipes right in the dyno room. I expect my shit to be off the hook, spool-wise, anyway with the new build up, but 1000 just from the tubey would be well beyond expectation. Werd? |
Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 490890)
Eh, I was hoping you could qualify THIS vis running a 2560r on tubular:
I hit target, which in the last pull was ~12psi, at just less than 3500rpm in fourth gear (1:1), FM log, 2560R, 1.6 stock as fuck. Spool killers: mbc taking ref just past turbo instead of ebc taking ref after ic, tables with SHITTY tune in boost building cells, 2.5" corksport exhaust with a ~1.5" baffle at the end. I will have one more opportunity this year to do spoolz, this time without the baffle, before and god willing I put in "the motor." I expect to get a couple hundred rpm by removing the baffle. If I could gain even 500rpm of spool with the tubular alone, 1. I'd be surprised, pleasantly, and 2. I'd lick the hot pipes right in the dyno room. I expect my shit to be off the hook, spool-wise, anyway with the new build up, but 1000 just from the tubey would be well beyond expectation. Werd? |
I got a chinacharger T3/T4 .50/.63 on a 1.8 dohc.
So far so good, know many friends running similar egay setups. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 490936)
Can you post a pic of where your ebc ref is connected?
:brain: has multiple posts recommending taking boost controller ref past ic for better spool. It will be this way when I complete my build, then ebc later next year. |
Speaking of taking MBC reference after the IC. I've read on here that location can actually damage the wastegate actuator due to the quick transient pressure changes. But if this isn't true, then that should net much more consistent boost control.
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Bryce >> after IC, before throttle body.
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Originally Posted by Bryce
(Post 491181)
Speaking of taking MBC reference after the IC. I've read on here that location can actually damage the wastegate actuator due to the quick transient pressure changes. But if this isn't true, then that should net much more consistent boost control.
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I'm buying a turbo tomorrow. There is now a Drift 2871 Which one do I choose? I need to decide by 11 am tomorrow 2-4-10
Alright people. Last time before I buy...... This: TITLE TB28 Turbo Charger APPLICATION Universal, Fits all cars and trucks, Modification maybe required DESCRIPTION Designed for quick spool application Perfect Upgrade for GT25 Silvia S13 SR20det Turbocharger with difference downpipe flange 2.5" Inlet Diameter Journal Bearing - Wet Float Type Internal wastegate set at Approx 10 Psi t25 Flange Oil Lub, Oil/Water Cool Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 350hp Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R Cold Side Ind: 42.50 mm Exd: 60 mm Trim: 50 Turbiner Wheel .49 A/R Garrett 4 Bolt T25 Flange Ind: 52.90 mm Exd: 45.47 mm Turbo Comes With Its Own Serial Numbe, WELL BALANCED. OR TITLE GT28 Turbo Charger (The blue hose and fitting are not includes) APPLICATION Universal, Fits all cars and trucks, Modification maybe required DESCRIPTION Perfect Upgrade for GT25/GT28 3" Inlet Diameter Journal Bearing - Wet Float Type Internal wastegate set at Max 25 Psi t25 Flange Oil Lub, Oil/Water Cool Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 420hp Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R Cold Side Ind: 54.00 mm Exd: 70 mm Trim: 60 Turbiner Wheel .64 A/R Garrett 4 Bolt T25 Flange Ind: 52.90 mm Exd: 45.47 mm With Installation Kit as shown in Pictures Turbo Comes With Its Own Serial Numbe, WELL BALANCED. I promise I won't ask this again |
Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 491153)
:brain: has multiple posts recommending taking boost controller ref past ic for better spool. It will be this way when I complete my build, then ebc later next year. yep, think about it. There's more boost pre-IC than post. When your use the compressor outlet as a boost source for the MBC, that extra boost will open the wastegate faster, if you source it post-IC it takes that much longer for it to start to crack open. |
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 517727)
This:
TITLE TB28 Turbo Charger Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R Cold Side Ind: 42.50 mm Exd: 60 mm Trim: 50 OR TITLE GT28 Turbo Charger (The blue hose and fitting are not includes) Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R Cold Side Ind: 54.00 mm Exd: 70 mm Trim: 60 |
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 517727)
This:
TITLE TB28 Turbo Charger Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R Cold Side Ind: 42.50 mm Exd: 60 mm Trim: 50 OR TITLE GT28 Turbo Charger (The blue hose and fitting are not includes) Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R Cold Side Ind: 54.00 mm Exd: 70 mm Trim: 60 |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 517829)
Do you want a "2560" or "2570"? The first will be good for 275-300rwhp, the second closer to 400.
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yeah i remember, they spec it as a 60mm wheel but he got a 71mm wheel. with the motor you're building you can get away with a "2871" easy.
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Great, then I will get their "2870" and I'll see what I end up getting. The excited anticipation has begun.
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