Dobzeh

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...654124&alt=web

Browsing ebay and came across this pricing seems to good to be true for a cast manifold. I'm boosting my 00 miata should I try this manifold out, for under 100$ it seems decent if it fits my 2000 miata.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Looks like it would flow extremely well, but turbo yes hit block?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I have both the t2 and t3 versions of that manifold sitting in my garage. I have test fitted the manifold on a 99 and it fits. I have not put a turbo on to see if it works with AC/PS. You will need longer studs at the front and rear of the head to use on that manifold.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

ooooh comes with a fancy hot plate for you to make a grill cheese on

surface finish is listed as cast aluminum?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

It's a rip off of one of BEGi's first manifolds.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Not all come with the heat shield.

My t2 manifold came with the heat shield and studs for the manifold, the t3 manifold came with a EWG block off plate, but no heat shield or studs. Both manifolds are exactly the same with just the holes for the studs drilled in different places for t2/t3.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

grilled cheese > ewg

Dobzeh

I just bought it I'll update when it arrives

jjking52

I've been running it on my new build for the last two months. So far so good.

MotoCARR

Have any fitment pics you can post/share?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You can go check the other eBay cast iron manifold thread where I have posted pictures of both the t2 and the t3 manifold with turbos. Here is a link to the post.

jjking52

Like Shuiend said, Need longer studs on the end and does hit the frame. Just like a BEGI or FM install you have to cut or bend the frame a little. Painted it with Eastwood manifold paint. I used a quality copper gasket from manifold to turbo. I installed the turbo to manifold first because the bolts are a bitch to get to. I bought the FM lower radiator reroute hose so I could run the intercooler tubing downward. I do have power steering so it was tight to the turbo.
Now this is not a daily driver. So, I don't have many miles on it so far. I did burn through a fairly new Exedy stage one pretty quick. We had to put in a stronger clutch and I am just about at the 500 mile break in. Might take a little more time on the break in. hoping to get it to a dyno soon.

bhooligan

Really Interested to see how well these last!

jjking52

Thought I had more pictures without the grilled cheese maker. I did use that as a base to install some home made heat shields.

jjking52

I'm told they can crack but, for less than a hundred bucks I had to try it. My BEGI down pipe will probably crack first.

joshcox19

Not to hijack, but I gotta ask.. How'd you tighten the center bolt on the bottom side? I just installed with no issues, but can't get a wrench or anything in there to tighten that one.

wred

iTrader: (1)

So your BEGI downpipe fit without any modifications? Any fitment problems to speak of?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

bad idea. it looks thick too, which means it will fail that much faster

NBoost

Gaskets are a fine idea. When they fail is
1) if the flanges are not machined flat, or
2) if the outlet on the turbo manifold and inlet on the exhaust housing of the turbo are not the same dimensions and centered on each other. If they aren't exact, a gasket will blow out almost immediately.

Illustration:

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I don't need a silly mspaint illustration to tell you that gaskets are not needed if your surfaces are true.
And I especially don't need to attempt to explain why a thick copper gasket on a pressurized, vibrating, 1800F orifice is really really stupid idea and has no chances of lasting whatsoever.

It's like arguing for gravity.