Help me select a T3 turbo with an internal wastegate (400hp in mind
 

Im looking for ideas on selecting a new turbo that has a t3 footprint and an internal wastegate. I currently have a Begi t3 manifold with a holset hx30. Performance is great but I'm looking for more power. I've started looking around for a different set up. But I haven't really found anything solid yet.

Anyone have any ideas for a 400hp set up that's internally gated?

My set up is a 95 forged bottom end with a 99 stock port head.
I don't want to run more than 20psi and would prefer pump gas and maybe meth injection.

How about you quit trying to plan a 400hp build around a fucking exhaust manifold?

If you're planning a 400hp setup, the relative cheapness of a manifold and EWG setup is going to cost pennies compared to everything else you're going to need to make 400hp.

HX35 or a HE351 would get you there.

However, playing around with the Holset waste gate can might not be so much fun.

I only sorta know garrett turbos and the only IWG turbo they have that can make 400hp is the 3071.

Maybe an 18G?

18G can definitely do it, but it will be tricky. You can get an internal gate 20G and that can make 400HP pretty efficiently.

I would also consider something like an S300 series BW. You can get some interesting tubrine housings there with internal gates from places like Bullseye.

Why is internal gate such a big deal? After yers of boost creep lameness on my old DSM I just did a super ghetto EWG setu on a stock mani and never looked back.

Word. How about you just buy my setup. Proven 398hp EWG.

people were giving me shit for wanting internal for my 300whp setup.
I went iwg anyway. it DOES creep a little bit, like 1-2psi in 4th/5th between 5500-6000.
I actually like it a lot, its quiet and still gets the job done.


now,

at 400 I don't know how badly the creep and boost instability might be, so I'd be really nervous about running iwg.

maybe if you go with one of the new bw efr turbo's that has a really nice iwg setup, but on a regular turbo I'm afraid it would be creep city for you.

Boost creep isn't necessarily bad as long as you're not blowing shit up.

creep = lack of control

True, and with built motor and e85 1-2psi doesn't hurt anything at all.

I must say though, I ported my wg opening a LOT. Had I not done that I'm almost certain I'd be seeing a ton of creep.
The new bw efr turbos seem to be doing just fine iwg, and I think it has to do most with the way theirs is designed. So at least now we know that you CAN have good control and flow through an iwg turbo, just depends on how its designed.

I truly hope other manufacturers see this and we start seeing more well designed iwg turbos.
EWG routed back into exhaust stream negates the power gains and vta just isn't for everyone (that doesn't want to wake the universe when they go WOT)

I must know how the spool is on that HX30, and what cm housing you have on it, pix are a plus!

The housing is a 9cm2, I'll have to post a pick of the turbo later. I'm pretty sure I have my turbo tapped out right around 320whp. 3076 or a 3071 are looking good so far.

spool @?
full boost @?

Stock 1.8 head?

Head is a stock port 99, with supertech valve springs.

Right now I'm pushing 20psi, I see full boost right at 3800rpms.

Nice! when you get pix I would love to see this setup!

FWIW, you'll never run all of it if you have a wastegate.

Hmm. I have access to an HX35 and an HX40. I'll check to see if they are internally gated.

Some hx 35s & 40s have internals and some do not. Still haven't really decided on a turbo so far, I've started researching more on holsets again. My hx30 compressor wheel now has a 44mm ind. And a 73mm exd. I have found after market hx35 compressor wheels that measure 46mm ind. And 83mm exd. I'm going to see if the compressor housing can be machined to accept this larger compressor. I have yet to see anyone accomplish this yet, maybe it has never been attempted.

Do to clearance issues with my manifold/turbo combo I can not step up to a hx35.

I was looking for holsets earlier this year and was interested in a hx40. I had a hard time finding them used though-- I was looking on cumminsforums

eBay is usually littered with them. Check out a chart that lists all the different turbine housing sizes, sometimes the name changes depending on the housing size. It's weird, I don't understand it.

Just give it a few days and more should show up on cummins forums.

Also be on the look out for variants like the HY/HY 35/40 hybrids. There are a bunch of different, usuable turbos that come up.

Have thought about a HY35, HE341 or HE351?

Those are all a step up from the HX30 and will net you 400hp.

We are, amongst other things, a Cummins engine dealer where I work. We end up with blown/damaged turbos somewhat frequently. The HX40 is typically not found on the B-Series (5.9 liter) engines that come in Dodge pickups. It is more likely to be found on the 8.3 or 8.8 liter engines found in larger trucks and machinery.

The HY 35 may be able to get you there and would have much better spool than the HX Holsets.

Do these blown/damaged turbos indicate a quality issue?

Also, gotpsi?, I had an even more difficult time finding HY35 turbos. Let me start looking again. I am on the prowl for a 600hp capable turbo.

Model: HX30
Compressor Wheel Data

A
Inducer Diameter
44.00 mm

B
Tip Height
4.25 mm

C
Exducer Diameter
73.00 mm

D
Hub Length
39.00 mm

E
Bore Diameter
7.00 mm

No. of Blades
6/6

Trim
36


HX35

Compressor Wheel Data

A
Inducer Diameter
46.00 mm

B
Tip Height
4.00 mm

C
Exducer Diameter
83.00 mm

D
Hub Length
39.00 mm

E
Bore Diameter
7.00 mm

No. of Blades
8/8

Trim
31

I'm going to see if my local turbo rebuild shop can make the hx35 wheel fit my hx30 housing, this is pretty much what the diesel guys are doing to the hx35s to make hx40s.

EFR7064 T3 0.83 A/R DO IT.

The internal wastegate setup is on fucking point + the bigger the turbine wheel the more you'll notice the spool advantages of the lightweight Gamma TiAL wheel. It's obviously more expensive, but it isn't some piece of shit diesel nonsense.

:withstupid: ^^ what he said - the mother of all T3s :bowdown:

I ordered a new CHRA for the hx30w, I'm going to rework my tune and possibly ditch the 2.5 exhaust for some 3 inch. Maybe look into my drivetrain set up an work on getting the power to the ground (LSD & maybe 6spd swap).

http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/...13&map_sel7=95
click on "refresh maps". Most of the data put in is educated guessing. I picked out some mentioned, but they don't have any of the new EFR maps from BW.
For what it's worth, the Holset HE351CW has just about the same compressor as the HX40, but with a wastegated T3ish flange.

pretty sure my exhaust is what is holding my set up back (fm 2.5 down pipe - test pipe - racing beats power pulse muffler.)

boost pressure falls off after 5800rpms, 20psi @ 3800rpms to 15psi @ 7000rpms.

if i can keep boost pressure from falling off and a/f good, I'll be happy with keeping my holset hx30w.

omg, upgrade that shit stat!

I gained over 30rwhp ditching my 2.25" borla dual exhaust for a 3" catback.

4" ftw. Pleaz lmk if it fits :)

I always thought about a 4" cat and catback. in the least a 4" cat back to a 3" exhaust since it's the most restrictive.

gotpsi? your sig has a mispelled word. :giggle:

Any recommendations on exhaust set ups? I will most likely do 3inch stuff.

Fine then buy my enthuza stainless 3" exhaust. Magnaflow muffler. Test pipe and also race cat comes with it.

The way my holset sits it's nearly impossible to run 3inch from the turbine back. I wonder how much hp/spool time I'll loose using the fm 2.5 lower downpipe section....

Installed the reman'd hx30 crha, ran it about 15miles. Parked it at the store, started it back up after 30 mins. Damn turbo sounded like a vacuum and would not build any boost. Checked over everything for loose connections or oil supply problems. Found nothing wrong.

I went ahead and put my old turbo back on and it ran fine (besides the side to side play)

Reman unit is getting sent back now for inspection. Oh I love waiting on parts...

did it sound like this:



?

2.5" exhaust isn't gonna drop boost in the upper rpm. usually when that happens it's because the turbo can't flow enough air to fill the cylinders AND keep boost at that pressure. the small exhaust will slow your spool (slightly) and restrict your whp, but not cause boost to fall off. 2.5" is fine at the turbine, go to 3" as early as possible, as straight as possible, i don't run a cat only a 3" dynomax race muffler (straight thru design) that looks like a resonater and it's not too loud. the bigger the turbine, the more noise, but even on my galant vr4 with a ported t3/t4 and the same exhaust setup, but all 4" and it was fairly quiet cruising. wot sounded awesome @ 28psi

braineack the turbo sounded exactly like that, wierd thing is that I found no sign of compressor to housing contact. I personally thought the compressor wheel came loose and was freewheeling, or some how was not balanced correctly.

As for my exhaust situation, I plan to just run a downpipe and see if my boost doesnt fall off that way so I know its the exhaust holding me back and not the actaual turbo.

if boost stays where it needs to be then some 3 inch will be welded up.

I also picked up a 18psi wastegate actuator to make sure my door isnt blowing open.

when my blades were touching it made that noise and wouldnt boost.

"brand new"

Fixed Thanks. I don't know how that happened.

Put the new 18psi wastegate on and dropped my test pipe and rb exhaust. Took it for a cruise late last night. Not only did the car spool faster and not have boost fall off in the upper rpms. It also woke up my neighbor... Whoops!

Yea running the fm 2.5 downpipe I do not recommend it, although the turbo spool sounded incredible. The actual exhaust note was horrible. Back to the car, pretty sure 3 inch will solve my boost problem.

Planning on picking up a magnaflow 3 in/out straight thru stainless steal muffler and having the 3 inch welded from basically the fm downpipe back.

Got a phone call from the turbo shop this morning, They said there were signs of "hot shut off" thats all they found wrong with the chra. I let the engine idle for a minute before I turn it off everytime.

How long does everyone else let there car idle at before they shut it down?

I thought a minute of cool down run time was the standard.

It's pretty accepted here I think that driving it sanely for the last few minutes of driving is enough. Doing that and letting it idle for a minute should be more than enough I would think.

That's all I ever did with my Volvo 740 turbo, 411,00km later it was in perfect condition, ran like a top, never did anything to it but change the oil and and tming belt.

unless you're pulling into a hot pit lane when you exit a road course after a 20-30min session, no "cool" down is necessary. turbo timers are a complete ripoff unless you're road racing. even then, no reason to pull the key out, just let it run. and thats only if you didn't do a cool down lap for some reason. never did a cool down on a street car turbo no matter how hard it was run on the street, no problems since 1997 on 5 diff. turbo cars. you just don't build up enough heat on the street. only time i've seen a turbo too hot on the street was when someone had a totally jacked tune, needless to say, his car only lasted a few weeks.

Put the new turbo on last night, car now boosts really slow. I think it may be time to search for a brand new turbo or possible new set up all together.