Holset 35
 

Has anyone used a Holset 35 on their Miata? Or any thoughts on installing it on a 1.6.

someone tell this kid how dumb he is so I don't have to!! do you have any clue AT ALL about how engine size and turbo size correlate? ok, deep breath....

what are you talking about?!

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/gouldmab...28Large%29.JPG


In all honesty, the Holset 35XXX is probably comparable to the 3076. So if you're looking for that 2000RPM bandwidth making killer torque, then power to you brah! Depending on the turbine housing and where you sourced it, it may never spool...it really depends, but Holset makes very efficient turbos if you can size them right.

Pictured turbo is either a HY35w or an HE351CW.... both have smaller hotside housings than the HX35....

I wouldn't put an hx35 on a miata motor. I would however... try the HY or HE on a built one....

nothing new here in new england,

my cousin is doing it to an mr2, it already runs and drives
first pass on the dyno it put down somthing like 330 at the wheels
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my friend johns celica

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both of these cars are aiming at somthing like 500 whp

yeah it was a HE351CW

open mouth insert foot.
 

Well for the record I'm not a kid. And yes I'm new to this forum but I'm not entirely clueless. Thanks to all the other members who responded. (Et tu Brute)

holset also makes a hx30 that might be more suitable for a 1.8, i think the hx series goes as small as 25.

I think this would make for a sweet bottom mount setup and good power. Should spool well
Turbocharger SR20DET SILVIA S14 S15 TD05H-18G Turbo - eBay (item 270306228589 end time Dec-20-08 23:47:29 PST)

Though I guess the deal here would be looking for a turbo with a $300 or so price tag, greddy 18g t2 flanged turbos can be had for $200-$400

I haven't got it in my hands yet I have to make a trip to go get it. But if it turns out to be on the large size I'll hang on to it anyway. The price is right.

I'm thinking of running a HX35 on a 1.8 plenty of honda guys with 1.6 and 1.8 liters are running them and countless DSM guys Holset Turbos, RESULTS ONLY (COMPLETE INSTALLED SYSTEMS) - DSM Forums. The turbos spool a lot faster than you guys think. You want high horse power number for cheap holset and Borg Warner are your best friends.

^ Remember one thing. Powerband, civics have like 2000 more useable RPM's so if the turbo spools by 4k, its ok. For us, if it spool buy 4k, its useless.

Also, those motors have a higher NA VE so they spool those turbos sooner anyway.

That and DSMs are 2.0, 2.3 or 2.4L and even on the 2L the Holset are late boost building.

Not to say it can't be done but don't expect to be building boost to at 3K and full boost by 4k. But still I like to see someone do it just so it be said was done.

I was about to say, the 1.6 OR the 1.8 dont flow nearly as well as the mitsu 4g63 OR the honda b18 motors, sorry.

+1 on experimenting with the 30 size. I've seen favorable reports on Turboford several years ago with the 2.3 and the HY35 (smaller ex. housing than the HX) having decent spool and big power potential--someone tried a 30 (HY or HX--don't remember) and the power peaked at something like 4500. With the Holset's ability to maintain efficiency at boost levels over 20 psi, I've been curious how well the H-30 would perform on a 1.8 or 1.6--plus they don't drain one's wallet to the tune of 1K for the turbo alone.

BTW, while the Honda heads are clearly superior to the Miata's, the Miata's is certainly closer to the Honda's than that of the Ford 2.3, dating to something like 1970 with it's single-cam 2-valve technology;)

I'd say go for it and let us know how it goes.

Without having flow charts of said 2.3 I'd say your claim is baseless. Also not forgetting the fact that said 2.3 has a full 0.5 L more displacement than the largest miata motor. That is a very significant player in spooling these large turbos.

1k I can buy like 7 holset for that much I have 2 sitting in my room I paid $140 for the HX35 and $90 for a 351. I originally bought the turbo's for my type R integra but since I'm trading it for the a miata I will use the turbo on the miata. The Honda does have a advantage of being able to rev to 9200 like it's nothing but I think I can make it work I have seen ls which only revs to 7500 make good number with them. If I want to make 350+ horse power I have to use a decent size turbo.

Neogenesis2004, with all due respect, my claim of the HY35 "working" for some people on the Ford 2.3 is not baseless--it's based on similar DIY'ers trying different things and finding "what works", and finding that this particular turbo had decent spool with good (even awesome) power potential for a given powerplant. This trial-and-error approach is definitely not a scientific approach, in regards to people doing things like finding (and understanding) compressor maps, making flow calculations of their motors based on such basic assumptions (much less measurements) as BFSC--it's people trying this and that, which is the nexus of the most basic DIY'ers principals, which basically states that "we'll try it until it blows up, and if it does, we'll try something else" (see homemadeturbo, among other sources, plus the entire history of hotrodding). And, before too long (usually), people end up finding a workable fitment that suits their needs, however unmathmatical or unscientific--not that I'm against this stuff, but sometimes the math and the science don't work like expected, and we look to what works by looking to what people have already done.

So, based on what I've seen in regards to how well a Holset HY35 performs on an "ancient" design like the Ford 2.3, I'm especially curious to see how an efficient turbo like the HX-30 (not the much larger HX- or HY-35) performs at high boost on a Miata motor. Quite frankly, I'm surprised no one has tried a Holset yet (that I know of), as they are known to be most efficient at higher (20psi+) levels.

So, to the OP, I say try a Holset 30 and see what happens...you just might turn us onto a whole 'nother DIY thing....;)

Here's how you do it:

1: PICK A POWER GOAL!
2: SET A BUDGET!
3: ASSESS YOUR SKILLZ!
Ensure that 1-2-3 are compatible, if not, revise until all are in line, then spreadsheet a build plan.
4: BUY PARTS!

Guys who start out "Will this turbo work on a Miata" are starting at the end of the problem. "Will this $150 turbo that will make 350whp I got from a buddy work after I spend $1500 on a custom DP and Manifold and $6k on a built motor?" It's fucking backwards guys!!! Buying parts should be the last thing you do, not the first... and starting a build around one part that happens to be lying around the house that's the cheapest thing in the whole equation is a recipe for disappointment.

Ross, not picking on you, but the BP motor is nothing like the 4G63 and B/D/H series Honda motors you might be used to... whole different animal. The majority of this board is partial to Garrett turbos, flanged in T2 and T3 because the major Miata turbo-centric companies use them. Going custom will get any size turbo you want to work as long as it will fit between the block/fender/crossmember/hood... but spooling anything larger than a GT2860 on a 1.6BP motor is nothing I would like to hit an onramp with.

If you gave us a general idea of what you had in mind for your Miata, maybe we could suggest a route to research. Do you have goals, a budget, some skillz???

Custom down pipe will cost approximately $300 bulleseye make a adapter for the downpipe where you can use a v-band clamp the turbo is t3 flange problem solved there. $900 buck for rod,piston,metal head gasket,and arp head studs. I Think I can buid my bottom end get all the turbo parts and engine management for less than 2k. I not using a mazda ecu anyways I am going with a cheaper better route than any aftermarket company provides for mazda still a secret you guys would call me retarded and tell me it won't work but I know it will. You said 6k for a built engine I can put a turbo ls1 in a miata for that. If any one is any good with tuning and are interested with my ideas on a new cheaper route to engine management system pm me for info.

Ah fuck we have another peter pan.

I'm no peter pan but if it's one thing I do best it making power cheap and reliable. I think I will test the limits of the stock engine anybody have the record for most power made on a stock block so I can have a goal to set to beat it with a holset.

Do you even know who Peter Pan I am referring to is, or why I even called you Peter Pan?? Or even better do you have the new holy grail that must not be spoken of or ever shown because it is so amazing that it will blow are little minds away. :giggle:

I think you guys aren't giving BoostedR a chance. I'm not one to do things the same way as everyone else. I'm always interested in innovation. I'm sure that the first guy that said "I want to put water injection on my Miata" was dissed.

To be honest I want to see someone put a Holset turbo on a miata. If sucks well then we have hard proof it fails(like the rear mounted turbo) and if it works well great there is another DIY option for those on a budget. My issue with him so far:


If he got such an amazing special secret holy grail of a unit then why not just post it. :jerkit: This cheaper better route then any aftermarket company BS is well just BS crap. Really if he found something cheaper then a MS that can really do everything an MS can, how is no one has heard of it. If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck. I am calling it a duck until proven otherwise

I'd like more info and less teasing as well. That is somewhat silly.

BoostedR should start a new thread regarding his ideas about a new ecu option including why it should work, problems to overcome, and solutions. After all, we do have quite a few electrical engineering and computer geek types on this forum. We like to ponder and discuss this stuff. We are already here because we are interested in DIY options.

Hmmm... parts maybe with a hookup, but skip the head-gasket, the OEM BP piece is more than adequate up to 400whp I believe.

There's no reason you can't post ECU hookup here. If you know something we don't then share... no need to keep secrets. A Megasquirt standalone with LC1 and injectors is a $500-$600 proposition... so cheap ECU's are all the rage around here, I know Emilio was working on something.

Anyways, I think you're still working this problem mostly backwards. You'll also need to consider what the car is going to be used for and upgrading the rest of the OEM components that won't cut it at the power levels you'll be reaching. Keep doing your homework and start spilling the beans on the ECU you've got tucked away.

I don't really won't to talk about it until it is proven I know it will work but 97% of the people on this forum would call me crazy if I explained it. Now I just have to do more research and get it to work so I have proof. No offense but you miata guys well most of you aren't to experimental you tend to stick to what is proven to work. I don't have a million bucks to throw at a daily driver am getting ready to buy a house. Once my idea works I will do a full write up on it. I think i can change the way miata guys tune and save a lot of people money at the same time.

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:
Dude.. you really didn't lurk on his forum long enough :noob:. I would say half of the people on this forum are all about low budget self build, trial and error system. Just like at the whole MS sub section. OR even better go back way in the day before the MS became popular and people were building o2 clamps with parts from Radio Shack.

Or even look at now. How many people are working on trying to build MS for the NBs.

Yeah, we're talking about a nearly 21-year old car...no one has ever done any of this shit before. You're the very first person to try this and show everyone how much they don't know. How fucking innovative?!?!?

However, first and foremost, STFU. There’s a hierarchy here and we don’t really care if you like it or not…but be careful because one of us might beat your fucking ass for wasting out precious bandwidth. You will not come into this forum and run your typing horse-shit about how you think you’re smart and how you’ve had a man in your mouth but you’re “not gay.” So next time you think about typing you may want to ask yourself what you’re going to do when you piss off Suge Night’s cousin, because I don’t take kindly to disrespect. Easy does it.

:winner: goes to Hustler

Did you figure any machine work in to your build, you cant just slap new parts into and old block and expect it to work like a dream. I'm not trying to bash you just to help, wright down a list with prices before you start your build, Belfab racing has a engine kit that is reasonably priced for the budget minded.

Or check out the build thread where I used the klystron from an old microwave oven to irradiate my fuel supply separate out the ethanol in blended gasoline. Or how I used a pump from an old dishwasher and a pressure switch from an oil pressure sending unit to make a water-injection system. Or how I used some of the electronics from an old VCR and actuators from a pinball machine to make a speed sensitive active aero system. No, we wouldn't be up for experimentation (just like my first wife, Louise).

holy shit.. I need to go look up your build thread..

but I also forget the guy that used a shop vac to prime his oil lines :D.

Yea we are all whine and cheerers. Heaven forbid we use a part that weren't designed for our almighty Miata. Cause you know the Miata is single handed the best sports car in the word and we won't want to use inferior parts on our rare and expensive cars:giggle:

Do you mean all of the computer techs, mechanical engineers, physics majors, and the guys who build their own ECU's from scratch... or do you mean guys like me who who are so dumb we have to fly airplanes Navy to make a living.

I've changed my mind, you're a douche. Now speak and redeem yourself or go the fuck away. Remember, in my first two posts, I tried to help.

Not very much machine work needs to be done when just building a bottom end. The block need to be honed and the heads need to be milled and really can do that yourself with enough research. Back when i was in high and money really was low I did slap new part in a old block and it work fine with no issues but I have the skill, knowledge and tool to do machine work myself. When I say I can have a miata with all turbo parts and bottom end build for less that 2k I was not joking. I'm forgetting thing I just buy some no moving thing used and make some of my own parts and do my own machining I told you guys I'm cheap but my build will still be reliable.

Maybe your right maybe I haven't been here long enough forgive me I'm am a newb. No offense to any boy but it just seemed like all the build I see here are identical. That just a outsider looking in.

I showed up with a check-card and came out with forged pistons, rods, blue-printed bottom end, fresh head with light porting, and every seal/gasket for $2100. All I did was buy shit and pay someone to put it together/ So not only are you a dumbfuck, but if you don't stop posting here I'm going to send a few of my hard-hittin niggaz over to your crib to talk about your lack of respect and stupidity.

lol please don't use the n word. Try to get some one to fight me over post on a forum you must not really have a life. I fear no man that breath the same air as me so bring it who ever you want I not a e thug I really will fuck them up. You said you paid SOMEONE to put your set up together there where most of the $2100 went. I'm too cheap to pay a machine shop. I order most of my parts through a friend that works at a machine shop who gets mad discounts and I do all my own machine work and what I can't do myself I will swap out labor for a friend who work at a machine shop. For all the stuff you had done. I could have done for $900. If you can afford and don't care pay the $2100 I'm not knocking you for that but there are cheaper ways so don't tell me I can't build a engine with everything for 2k cause I can I just buy part at discount rate make some of my own parts and do all the work my self. Look at the Puerto Ricans some of the nastiest budget builds come out of that place.

To the OP sorry for thread jacking. Everyone can we please move on and get back on subject to the Holset. If you guys want to discuss/argue my ideas just pm me or make a new thread but no threats. We are all grown me and should act it. We all come here for one reason for the love of cars.

Working fine and working right are two very different things, you may need more than just a hone to the cylinders, you may also need to line bore the block, you didnt mention anything about balencing the rotating assembly either, your new pistons and rods don't weigh the same as the stock ones, and factory balance jobs suck to begin with. Or any valve work, springs that are old and will float at high rpm, any crank grinding that my need to be done, If your order stock size pistons and wind up having to bore the block your going to have to by a different oversize set. balancing the flywheel and clutch, and that means buying a new clutch, which you will have to do once you go turbo anyways.

Do you know what piston to cylinder wall clearance you want? Do you know how much clearance you should have for your rod or main bearings? would you even check them when putting your engine together?

Do it right once and forget about it. If it costs you more to do it right it is worth it.

:laugh::laugh::laugh: Oh all this racism is killing me. God I'm about to die over here! This thread rocks.

Somehow I doubt that you can have the motor that Hustler has for $900 dude. Parts alone is more than that even with your angry discount.

Sure he can, he is Peter Pan from the land of magical shit.

:bowrofl: I wasn't expecting that...

Well I figured I would bring up this old thred, I just got a Holset HY35 for free from a guy who's truck broke down. I gave him a ride and he had like 6 of them at his house so he gave me one. After my next track day on the 25th I am going to build a manifold and down pipe for this thing and let you all know how it goes.

It will take a regular T3 flange but spool time will suck. My friend is using this turbo on his honda b16 which is way more efficient than a BP and he says it's a bit on the laggy side.

Get 2 more from him and I'll do a twin turbo vq35de....

all the others were way bigger the next size was a hx 35 and it went up considerably from there. I also plan on making an intake manifold at the same time so it should be a fun project