How to run my hoses?
 

I'm making the last few decisions here and need input on the following:

1. BOV: I'm going to use this on the hot side IC pipe and VTA initially and see if it will run properly. The Bosch BOV is a perfect fit for the T on that hose: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

2. Breather: I think this on the intake pipe would work fine. http://stores.channeladvisor.com/ver...ts/Items/2895? I was all in favor of drilling into the MAF with a barb, but I'm using the stock MAF initially and don't want to modify it.

3. IDLE AIR: Do you think I can get away with the same system as #2 on a charged pipe. Would that grommet stay in place? If not, I'll have to visit a local weld shop to attach the nipple for that.

Does anybody else run something I haven't thought of for ease of installation?

I only have a crossover tube at the moment, so I can only really help with the idle air hose.

I just drilled a hole in my silicone elbow and got a 90 degree hose barb elbow (3/4" i think) and sealed it in with silicone. Works fine. You want it to be the same diameter all the way through, or it will screw up your idle, i.e., your car won't idle.

You can kind of see my setup here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...a/DSC00243.jpg

WOW! That might be the ticket. I guess I've gotta hit the hydraulic shop again. Those guys love me down there. I just ordered the Samco T-Coupler from Summit, and the oil drain flange/tube from ATP. Early next week we should be in business.

I think I can get the breather tap into the intake at Pep Boys.

That silicone T looks like it should work. I'm in favor of hard pipes for everything just because I don't like the give that a long silicone coupler provides. I'm sure if you use good T-clamps you'll be fine with that though. As for my crank breather, I drilled and tapped the piece of piping that comes off my compressor intake that fits inbetween my MAF and turbo. Tapped it for 1/8" NPT and put a barbed fitting in. Not sure if you could do something similar because mine isn't going anywhere after I used a little teflon paste on it. If you can stay away from doing grommets, I would at all cost just because if you tap the whole and thread it in there you'll know it won't just blow out. Then again if you're unhappy with a tapped hole i'm sure you could upgrade to the grommet because the holes size would increase with that upgrade so you could just redrill it out.

if you do VTA the bosch BOV, consider a filter on the end as it will be open at times other than boost

Good advice all around. I've ordered more 10an hose than I need for my oil drain. I think I will use a 90* barb and tap the pipe going into the TB... a little JBWeld for insurance. A 10an should fit over the IdleAir bung on the manifold... after I boil it to death.

I'll also go with a drill and tap for the Breather line into the intake... no reason to take a chance on that grommet.

Does anybody make a cheap little 1" filter for the BOV. I know some people say they don't have problems VTA on a 1.6... other say they do. I hope I'm one of the don't. I also hope it's not very loud. I dig stealth. If it's too loud, even if it works, I might still have to recirc.

ACE hardware.
You just need to find some kind of rubber to stick in the other end and seal it with RTV. I used a 1" grommet that didn't have a hole in it. Mine's been on for a couple hundred miles and it's still there- no clamps just the filter's rubber ring- perfect fit. You will no longer hear you BOV- so perfect for stealth. That's what I wanted. - rob