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How-to video on the application of lockwire
(mods, not sure where this should have gone...please move as you desire)
Figured you guys might enjoy this. This guy does jet engine stuff, but he mentions the other area where lockwire is used is in racing. I've read a bunch of threads on how lockwire is strongly recommended, but not really seen much on 'how to'. Video mentions it, but figured it beared repeating that we need to drill bolts/studs/whatever to accommodate lockwire, whereas the aero industry has everything 'lockwire ready'. The pliers he uses are pretty cool, too. (single use...but cool) edit: the DIY method comes in around 18:30. edit2: moar: |
You see the black pliers with the silver bit on the handle in the beginning of the first video. Those are the harbor freight ones. Work fine, you think they're great unless you've used a nice $100 pair of safety wire pliers. The HF ones are adequate.
Drilling your own bolts for safety wire is moronic. Its completely worth the extra money to buy ones already drilled. I've done it before, but it was one of those, shit its 2AM and I need X for tomorrow, welp here goes an hour of my life. |
I drill my bolts all the time. Takes a minute for regular steel (grades 5/8.8 and 8/10.8). Inconel is tougher. The pre-drilled aerospace bolts are $$$ and not all that easy to find in metric sizes.
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From TSE's site....
Safety-wiring all four nuts and studs together is only a temporary fix � after only a few sessions a steel stud will creep and cause exhaust leaks regardless. In order to complement our high-quality studs, we have chosen two products of similar quality. Stage 8 Fasteners provides the nuts, retainers, and clips for our kit. These nuts are significantly easier and faster to install than standard locking nuts or copper split-locking nuts. Once the nuts are all installed and tightened, retainers and clips are installed. If one of the nuts attempts to back its way off of the stud, the retainer interferes with its surroundings and prevents the nut from loosening any further. Looks like they're saying safety wire is pointless anyways...? edit: Or just for full-out racecars...? Non-enduro racers need not apply? hornetball - aerospace bolts not easy to find in metric sizes?? Weird! Seems kinda counter-intuitive... |
Safety wire is not pointless for 2 piece brake rotors, steering wheel to hub bolts, etc.
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Sorry...my bad. I should have been more specific...safety wire won't help for turbo high-heat applications i.e. manifold studs, turbo/dp flanges....question mark...
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Safety wire works fine in high-heat applications. Look at your video. That's a jet engine. You can buy Inconel safety wire pretty reasonably.
TSE's point is that plain steel is not the correct material for high-heat fasteners. If you use high-heat fasteners (like TSE's Inconel studs), choose whatever locking method that suits you. I use TSE's Inconel stud kit on my manifold to turbo -- came with Stage 8 locks, so I used them. I used Nissan OEM Inconel bolts on my turbo to DP. I drilled those and locked with Inconel safety wire. |
Ah, okay, that makes more sense...thanks for clearing it up.
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WOW awesome vids thanks for the post
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I've been watching this guy with his videos on and off for a while now.
This is a good video of him doing a real difficult lockwire job. It's a 20 minute video, but worth a watch to kill some time. |
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