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I’m new here. I’ve got a 1.6 turbo and some questions about it!
Hey guys. Here’s my build if you need it:
T3 is Godspeed turbo 50 trim internal wastegate
V band downpipe
ISR catback exhaust
1.8L injectors
Walbro fuel pump
OBX FMU
Turbosmart manual boost controller
AEM AFR
Torsen diff
ACT stage 2 clutch
Okay.. So I’m currently trying to set my boost. I’m aiming for 8-10 psi. Here is a pic of the engine bay:
for my first question, I’m wondering if my vacuum line from my boost gauge in the cabin is correctly set up in the bay. It’s connected to a T piece that splits to both the throttle body and what I think is the solenoid for the charcoal canister. Here’s another pic of it helps:
My problem is my boost gauge routinely shows that I’m getting 4 psi at full throttle in 3rd gear, regardless of my changes to the boost controller. When I installed the controller, I set it to the minimum amount, then drove the car. At minimum the gauge read 4 psi. So I went about 3 clicks up on the controller and tried again. 4 psi. Again I adjusted it by about 3 clicks. Still 4 psi on the gauge. So I’m thinking my issues right now are either there is something wrong with the gauge (though it appears to be working perfectly), or there is a problem with having the T piece also be connected to the charcoal canister system (in which case I can delete the canister and route the vacuum line directly to the throttle body), OR I’m just not increasing the boost enough for it to make a change.
But here is the odd thing: after every time I increased boost on the controller, the car felt faster each time. Like it pulls harder. Even though the gauge is still only reporting 4 psi.
So this is my current dilemma. Any ideas? Thanks guys
Last edited by KelseyMiata; Oct 12, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
Reason: Punctuation
It would be easier to read boost levels if you were on megasquirt. Ditch the fmu, get a megasquirt and bigger injectors. Even 1.8 injectors will run out of fuel before you hit 8-10psi or at least be at their very limit
as far as the lines, you could have tee'd off the line for the bov, or remove the charcoal canister outright.
Last edited by WigglingWaffles; Oct 13, 2020 at 06:47 AM.
It would be easier to read boost levels if you were on megasquirt. Ditch the fmu, get a megasquirt and bigger injectors. Even 1.8 injectors will run out of fuel before you hit 8-10psi or at least be at their very limit
as far as the lines, you could have tee'd off the line for the bov, or remove the charcoal canister outright.
Yeah megasquirt and injectors are planned but that won’t be for a few months.
Can you explain why I would do that or for what purpose? A quick google tells me that may be to keep from using the turbo?
I have it set at the minimum right now which is 4 psi and I rarely have time to drive it currently. MS is on the way.
because they are trying to keep you from popping your motor before you are sure everything is set right. I agree, wire that badboy open until you figure out your ECU... it shows 4psi, but you are also questioning the accuracy of that reading based on where you are pulling it from (if youre not questioning it, you should be...)
These are just suggestions! Ultimately, if you don't like what the people who have been playing with boosted miatas for a lonnnnng time because you dont like the answer provided, you and your wallet are abundantly entitled to that
because they are trying to keep you from popping your motor before you are sure everything is set right. I agree, wire that badboy open until you figure out your ECU... it shows 4psi, but you are also questioning the accuracy of that reading based on where you are pulling it from (if youre not questioning it, you should be...)
These are just suggestions! Ultimately, if you don't like what the people who have been playing with boosted miatas for a lonnnnng time because you dont like the answer provided, you and your wallet are abundantly entitled to that
No I’m aware they’re suggestions, and I’m thankful for that. Sorry if my comments were unclear, I’m just trying to understand what you all are advising.
I’m new to boost and I’ll gladly take all the help I can get. So I need to open the wastegate now.. any Miata-specific tips as far as doing that goes or is it pretty straight forward?
I can’t find much info on tying a wastegate open. But that’s something I definitely want to do now, last thing I would want is to hurt the motor. Can someone instruct me on this?
Read. Read. Read. And read some more. Lurking this forum can teach you more than posting will.
A megasquirt can get your car running better than stock and has basically unlimited potential...but carries with it a steep learning curve and it will feel cryptic at times if you're doing it all yourself. When you have issues, knowing how to efficiently use google is helpful as well.
That or pay someone else to tune it
From what I can find, it seems like manually keeping the wastegate open is just more hassle and not worth it. I’m seeing that I basically just need to stay out of boost.. so no heavy footing until I get the megasquirt and injectors and tune done.
Once again wire it open. It takes 2 seconds to do. Are you prepared to do a motor swap both financially and have available downtime.
I’ve already asked for assistance in wiring it open. All I’m getting is people telling me to do so, but no explanation. Like I said, I can’t find much info on it other than the thread I linked.
Do you see the part that moves? Move it so it's open, then tie it to something in a manner that keeps it there. Probably don't use nylon string.
We're not going to be able to give you a step by step because pretty much nobody here uses that collection of questionable ebay parts on a 1.6 with a bunch of stock stuff everywhere.
Car looks like it's pretty clean, though. It'll make for a good roller when you wipe the slate on it inside of the next 12 months if you don't sell it before then. You get it for about $2500?
I’ve already asked for assistance in wiring it open. All I’m getting is people telling me to do so, but no explanation. Like I said, I can’t find much info on it other than the thread I linked.
1) Remove the little clip holding the actuator rod onto the lever. Don't drop it, put it away somewhere safe. Separate the rod and the lever.
) and a pair of pliers. Hook a piece of wire around the lever on the wastegate itself (the bit that goes through the turbine housing) and twist it around itself to form a loop.
3) Open the wastegate by rotating the lever to the rear and route the wire to something in that direction that you can wrap it around, like the bracket for the coils. Take the slack out and twist the other end around itself as well.
Do you see the part that moves? Move it so it's open, then tie it to something in a manner that keeps it there. Probably don't use nylon string.
We're not going to be able to give you a step by step because pretty much nobody here uses that collection of questionable ebay parts on a 1.6 with a bunch of stock stuff everywhere.
Car looks like it's pretty clean, though. It'll make for a good roller when you wipe the slate on it inside of the next 12 months if you don't sell it before then. You get it for about $2500?
1) Remove the little clip holding the actuator rod onto the lever. Don't drop it, put it away somewhere safe. Separate the rod and the lever.
2) Get some safety wire (https://www.amazon.com//dp/B005VR49D6) and a pair of pliers. Hook a piece of wire around the lever on the wastegate itself (the bit that goes through the turbine housing) and twist it around itself to form a loop.
3) Open the wastegate by rotating the lever to the rear and route the wire to something in that direction that you can wrap it around, like the bracket for the coils. Take the slack out and twist the other end around itself as well.
--Ian
Thank you for this I appreciate it. I’ll attempt that later today and try to report back if it goes okay.
The instructions from Flyin Miata that came with the turbo I bought from them say to source your vacuum for the manifold air pressure from a source that is not noisy.
I puzzled over why some locations are noisy and others are not, and realized the sources that are used to actuate a lot of features are the noisiest. The location you are using for the gauge is a noisy source. It feeds the BOV, and the charcoal canister, and is immediately near the throttle plate.
There are other vacuum hoses on the intake, try simply changing where your gauge reads from, and see if you loose the constant 4 psi right away.
There are vacuum routing differences between different heads over the years, and I not familiar with the arrangement for Kelsey's year, in terms of the best location. But I do know you have a noisy tap off point as it stands, so just try some others.
Can you trust the gauge? Does it read around -20 at idle or cruising? Does it go to around -10 to zero at above moderate throttle, but out of boost? Do you have a vacuum and pressure source you could test it with? Or a gauge borrowed from a friend to check the readings.
I’m new here. I’ve got a 1.6 turbo and some questions about it!
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