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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-26-2009, 01:13 PM   #81
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Could always just get OE pistons on an automatic. I know they're lower compression on a 1.6. Not my problem, so I haven't DAFSed, but there's at least the '94-95 OE option for the 1.8.
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Old 09-26-2009, 01:27 PM   #82
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Dual Feed Rail, Coolant ReRoute would probably help with your #4 melted piston issue.
I'd recommend forged rods unless you can find a CHEAP stock block. $150 or less!
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Old 09-26-2009, 01:39 PM   #83
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I thought the fuel rail problem didn't exist?
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Old 09-26-2009, 01:54 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I thought the fuel rail problem didn't exist?
I heard that from a few people as well. There were lots of speculations and guesses, but no one has really proven this to exist.

I'd love to hear more on the subject though.

Last edited by 18psi; 09-26-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 09-26-2009, 02:16 PM   #85
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Nobody's proven it TO exist, either. I put 30k of 14-16psi on my '94 block before it chucked the #4 rod out the side. A dozen or so trackdays, 3 overrevs, etc. Number four looked perfect (except for the chunk of skirt missing from when it hit the crankshaft)
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Old 09-26-2009, 02:21 PM   #86
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Yeah that's what I meant Sav, just edited my post

Now about coolant re-route:
I want to hear from some people that ARE NOT BIASED. Is it worth it for ME? And by that I mean: car is not track raced, not beaten on for long periods of time, just driven on the street and occasionally romped on. Like a few 1-4th pulls at WOT and thats about it.

Do I need the re-route? I know its good and beneficial and all that mumbo jumbo, but is this something I "should probably" have or something I "absolutely need"?
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Old 09-27-2009, 03:42 PM   #87
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I'll preface this by saying I'm new with these motors. BUT, doing the coolant reroute is a fairly recent idea in the ol' Z scene.

In those motor's it's a double edged sword. You get slightly faster warmup, and much better and more stable cooling between cylinders (5 and 6 are notorious for running a little warmer then the rest). This allows you to squeeze a little more power out of the motors because the detonation threshold for all the cylinders is much closer now (where-as 5 & 6 would detonate easier then the others).

Now the bad, on these old Z motors, when you detonate, it almost always takes out the headgasket on either cyl 5, 6, or inbetween the 2. The good thing is it's almost always the headgasket that goes (and it's a cheap part, so it's basically a fuse). With the coolant reroute done, when people detonate, they take out ring lands, crush rings, and even melt pistons, as well as blow a headgasket. In that case it's no longer an issue with uneven cooling, it's with uneven fuel distribution, spark tuning, or fuel issues.

Now, I don't know how detonation resilient these Mazda motors are, but if you can melt pistons before you blow a headgasket, I would DEFINITELY do this mod. If it was like the old Z motors where the headgasket can act like a fuse, I wouldn't do this mod for a turbo street car.

That said I'm doing the reroute to mine when I boost the Miata.
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:18 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dparks7 View Post
ya im with neogenesis, def the HG
Did you even READ the thread?
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:25 PM   #89
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I think hes just trying to get his post count up.
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:08 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dparks7 View Post
ya im with neogenesis, def the HG
lol dude read the thread next time but still abetter effort than most of the newbs
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:18 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Do I need the re-route? I know its good and beneficial and all that mumbo jumbo, but is this something I "should probably" have or something I "absolutely need"?
For you? No track time, the occasional drag pass, street pulls and DD use? No.

Having said that, you can do a spacerless reroute with the motor out of the car for less than $30, and it does help.
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:17 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
For you? No track time, the occasional drag pass, street pulls and DD use? No.

Having said that, you can do a spacerless reroute with the motor out of the car for less than $30, and it does help.
REALLY??!!!!! How so?
Please show me a link or point me in the direction of this DIY re-route...

My temps were 120*C at one point. I think I'll do the re-route while its out even if I don't need it. If I can get the temps to be stable and not spike to ungodly numbers when in boost I'll do the reroute
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:21 AM   #93
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-take water neck off front of motor, use the outlet part to replace your thermostat cover
-move thermostat to back of head
-drill and tap 3/8" NPT port in the side of the head, just before the thermostat, install 5/8" hose barb for heater core feed
-route coolant from back of head to front of head
-get money
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:26 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
-take water neck off front of motor, use the outlet part to replace your thermostat cover
-move thermostat to back of head
-drill and tap 3/8" NPT port in the side of the head, just before the thermostat, install 5/8" hose barb for heater core feed
-route coolant from back of head to front of head
-get bitches
Fixed
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:13 AM   #95
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You are ******* awesome
I'll definitely be doing my own reroute now. **** dumping 230 for one
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:53 AM   #96
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I'm not very observant. I always miss this kind of thread for weeks before I finally see it. I guess your forged internals thread makes more sense now. Sucks to hear. Don't risk it again, build it!
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:29 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashnscar View Post
No.
Yeah yeah, its debated. Ive read countless threads on this forum about the issue, and it always goes one way or another.

Just curious why its magic #4 that usually melts..

Guessing the fix must be a coolant reroute, or dual feed rail.. or both.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:35 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
REALLY??!!!!! How so?
Please show me a link or point me in the direction of this DIY re-route...

probably start my searching thread titles "spacerless reroute"
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:03 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Yeah yeah, its debated. Ive read countless threads on this forum about the issue, and it always goes one way or another.

Just curious why its magic #4 that usually melts..

Guessing the fix must be a coolant reroute, or dual feed rail.. or both.
My best guess is the shitty coolant routing. I highly doubt the fuel rail is the culprit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
probably start my searching thread titles "spacerless reroute"
Thank you sir. I am in the process of learning everything there is to know about coolant reroutes..

Wonder if I should contact the legendary "Hyper" regarding this problem?
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:28 PM   #100
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I was gonna wait till I finished...but I'm trying a mid-level budget reroute.

It's not as cheap as some...but still <$100, with the expensive parts being the two gates hoses that bring water from back of head to front of head.

It's a variant of the Mike's place reroute for your model...but I'm adapting it to the NA 1.6 by adding a spacer for my sensors on back of head.

mike's place coolant reroute - Google Videos

I find this guy beyond annoying...so just skip to the parts list at 4:00 and profit.

This reroute (and the variant I'm doing) does everything...keeps heater core, warm up time, all sensors, and uses minimum of machined/special parts.

I'll see what kind of difference it makes on mine.
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