...I think I have too many bandaids...
After a simple oil change this morning, I had a good hard look into my engine bay; I realize I have too many shitty bandaids. It used to look neat, but I let it fall into despair after 3 years!!
here are my kludges: -I have a crappy aftermarket radiator fan (ebay special) that was supposed to be a temp, but never got to replacing it. It is held to the radiator with cheap plastic slip clips, and I did it because my stock fan cracked and broke away. I would really love an aluminum radiator, but I dont know much about the different types or brands. -I would love to get a ECU, but all I have for fuel management is a Mallory fuel pump and regulator, and used voodoo box from FM that has seen better days. -I have a paperclip holding my wastegate's arm onto the valve, instead of the little black clip. -I need new wires, but I would really like to get COP. -I am tired of the stock O2 sensor and my F/A ratio guage always reading super rich. I need a decent WB. I want bigger injectors, but I dont know if i need low impedence, or high for my measly 7-9psi. I have stock tan tops. I feel like a total :loser::jerkit: :facepalm: So here is my question: What can I get for a max budget of 1k? |
For $1K I don't see why you couldn't build your own MS, pick up a decent aluminum rad and a WB at the least, especially if you shop around for the latter two used.
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Simple:
1. Brain built MS - ~$450 2. LC-1 w/DB gauge - $229 3. RX7 460cc injectors - $40-60 (mine weren't "cleaned" and have been stellar) 4. Mishimoto Radiator - $235 5. DIY COPS - ~$100 (with one of Sav's hold down brackets) That puts you just over a grand, and fixes a LOT of problems, with a lot of headroom and dependability. The MS can be a little cheaper depending on options, or a lot cheaper if you build it yourself. Also, you really don't have to have the DB gauge, and would save $30...but it's good for peace of mind. DIY on the wastegate prob or whatever, just go a little less ghetto this time. Good Luck! |
1k will buy you: a complete megasquirt/wires/460 injectors/LC-1/new plugs/a haircut....IF you know someone who can solder and owes you a favor.
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sweet that looks about the direction I need, I just have a percentage of my military bonus coming (2.5k) and I would like to use just less than half. Other half is going to savings.
As of the end of this month, say bub-bye to my ghetto aids. |
Seeing this thread instills mucho confidence in my setup:-P
I did the band aid setup there for a while, spend the money and get the right parts! Your motor will thank you for it. |
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 514435)
sweet that looks about the direction I need, I just have a percentage of my military bonus coming (2.5k) and I would like to use just less than half. Other half is going to savings.
As of the end of this month, say bub-bye to my ghetto aids. |
Originally Posted by KPLAFIN
(Post 514491)
Don't forget to budget the extra taxes coming out of that bonus if you haven't already. Out of my first $10K installment in October, I got about $6.8K, bullshit but whatcha gonna do?
-Nevada has no housing tax -Nevada has low taxes -I have money pulled for the Thrift Savings Plan every paycheck I get from the AF. |
I guess you can sell some of the parts you wont be needing after the upgrades. Get some money back.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by turotufas
(Post 514556)
I guess you can sell some of the parts you wont be needing after the upgrades. Get some money back.
I have had this motor for 4 years now, it was the first and original motor for my car that has fallen prey to detonation, due to a wastegate malfunction on a different ebay T28-ish turbocharger (it was my fault, the vacuum line was cracked). I have been planning and saving separately to overhaul this motor and port the head, but I just keep dipping into the jar for misc. necessities. There something fishy about cylinder 4... but I just cant put my thumb on it. :facepalm: Attachment 200883 There is very light rust (I can wipe it away with my finger) on the block, the head is in perfect condition, I planned on port polishing, and the intake manifold is pristine as well, just a little... stock. Should I keep it for another year, or should I help fund this upgrade project with this? In another year I can afford to build it... with that year's bonus... EDIT: I just looked at the block again, the cylinders could use some light honing due to small patches of rust as well. |
If you do exactly what I'm doing with my spare block you maaay get away for a grand. But I've already done all the other upgrades I put in my list...which is why I'm looking at 250+whp now.
Save the block for next year and do it right. Get engine management sorted before the engine. NM....just saw that thing will need pistons...damn...save up $2k and build a nice motor next year. |
these days WD40 does good stuff for your open to the elements block.
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For storage wipe/clean all the rust off you can and put some general purpose grease on it. It makes a mess but better than rust. Plan for $300 rods, $100(?) stock pistons, $250 rebuild kit, $30(?) home hone drill adapter, and you should have a pretty stout engine, assuming you know what you're doing.
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if you're gonna go with all that work might as well go with new pistons as well
the entire set is not much more than that |
Originally Posted by KPLAFIN
(Post 514491)
Don't forget to budget the extra taxes coming out of that bonus if you haven't already. Out of my first $10K installment in October, I got about $6.8K, bullshit but whatcha gonna do?
after taxes I could use it to wipe my ...:vash: |
Major edit: Fuck rebuild. From what I understand, its alot of work and use of equipment I do not have to balence and test, and I do not want to chance a catastrophic failure.
I posted in the WTB section, but from what I understand alot of people dont check it often. If you can rebuild turbochargers, ill gladly sell you my two for $100, they are as follows: 1.Masterpower GT17/T2-(Purchased new for $482.24), This turbo was great until the freak accident oil feed line got choked by being pinched between the block and firewall, at first I thought it was my reducer fitting but it wasnt. The bearings cooked and just sent the shaft all sorts of crazy, but luckly this was in the driveway, and I removed and replaced the turbo before further damage can be done to the internals. It is a T2 all the way. 2. old ass AiResearch M10/T2- Came from the auto tech lab here at my college, I got it for free since he doesnt have a use for it and he cant sell it due to donation laws. I recieved it with 100K miles under the turbo's belt. It was a great turbo that lasted 2 1/2 years after the masterpower, with daily drive use, and just recently wore out the seals and whines a little. I am looking to buy a good T25 if anyone you have any lying around, even if its a well cared for used chinacharger with alot of life left. If none of you have one. This has recently come up and it is messing with my summer upgrade tremedessly, since I only planned on a certain amount, and I have very little money to spend freely, especially with the new kid coming. Here in Reno there isnt alot of resources, Summit Racing can only provide so much, and our junk yards have been picked clean of all forced induction items from the vtec retards who believe they are going to build something; also, I am just tired of band-aids after 4 years. I didnt plan for this at all and now I have to open my wastegate entirely so I can just drive around without further damage... this sucks balls. My wife does not want me to just trash the idea, she loves this car as much as I do, and knows how much sweat and blood I put into it. The reason she loves it is becuase it was my first car, and since she is my high school sweetheart, she doesnt want the car to even be traded in for a different one... plus she can drive this one and kill ricer egos (she dont know how to drive a stick, we tried when we were looking at other miatas... that poor poor 92', may you be safe in the hands of someone else but my wife). Help? |
edit bump.
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