skuse

This is my attempt at a 350whp mid-budget build 😊 I’m 19 so I still have so much learning to do, I hope you guys can give me your criticism in this thread! I don’t want to sound like every naïve teenager on here but I completely understand if you think I do! 😂
BTW I'm Australian, but I'll use Imperial terms for this thread xx I hope this is actually successful and people can use this thread as a resource while studying their own build

Goals:
E85: 350whp+ safe for 6 speed
Pump: 250whp fun on the street

TURBO SETUP

Shooting for 350whp+ Here's my parts I've gathered and will assemble in January

Engine:
99 BP4W, Ebay Rods, Stock Pistons, Hastings Rings, ACL Race Bearings, Boundary Oil Gears, ARP Main Studs, ARP Head Studs, Balanced Assembly, MLS Headgasket, Refreshed head (regrind, seals), Exhintake

Fuel: Injector Dynamics ID1000, Adjustable FPR (Will Run at 72.5psi), DW300 Pump, Flex Sensor

DriveTrain: NB8A 6 Speed, 4kg lightweight flywheel for 1.6, Xtreme Stage 1R (400ftlbs) 3.6 Torsen

Coldside:
Squaretop IM, 64mm Throttle Body, 2.5" IC piping, Ebay medium size Intercooler

Hotside:
Ebay China Taco Taco Manifold, 38mm Wastegate, Mamba GTX2867R Gen 2 with .71 Turbine, 3" Exhaust, Magnaflow Cat and Muffler, Ebay electric bypass

Brakes:
NB8A, Braided Lines

Will be tuning it with my MSPNP2


Approx total inc machine work:

$3600USD… FU**!!


Where it’s at right now

MSPNP2 running N/A on the 1.6l street ‘tuned’ by myself, 15x8 RPF1s, MCA XR coils

I bought and (brutally) molested a wrecked 99 NB for $500, when I bought it, all that remained was the drivetrain and dashboard… Perfect!

BP4W, 1.8 5 speed and 4.1 open diff however…

Rear subframe + diff were swapped into the car + bigger brakes… yippee

Been driving it around like this for about a 1.5 years as I slowly accumulated my parts and I’ve enjoyed it! But it’s time to become a man...

borka

iTrader: (1)

good luck with a 320wtq goal and a 5 speed gear box.

mine sheared 3rd gear at a track day pushing 230wtq

skuse

I've got the 6 speed man 😁

borka

iTrader: (1)

oh, my bad, i missed that part.

i just read that you pulled the 5 speed from the wrecked 99.

all good, carry on.

are you planning to run e85? you might need 1000cc injectors for 350hp on e85

vitamin j

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I'd second injectors. I have FF640 and ran out of injectors around 326whp at 60psi fuel pressure. Still ******* fast as hell.

Turbomack

I cannot quickly find my log file but recall calcs that showed my ID1050x’s would have taken me to 460-480 WHP on real E85 which isn’t necessarily on every street corner.

skuse

Thanks guys, I'll definitely grab some bigger injectors for e85
Couple things I forgot to mention are I've got toyota cops, from a Yaris, might be on the upgrade list but I'll run them and see how they go

What are your guys thoughts on Exhintake with FI? I've heard mixed things, I have no problem using either, I bought it a while ago thinking I was going to run N/A

SpartanSV

That turbo won't make 350whp.

andyfloyd

If it's a GTX it will. If it's not then you are correct. GT2860rs is good for maybe 330whp being pushed to the max. The new gtx2860 can probably hit high 300s

skuse

Update on part selection
Sacked the 2860rs for a GTX2867 gen 2 CHRA, mamba .71A/R turbine housing and mamba .60AR Compressor housing

Sourced ID1000 injectors from a WRX for $280usd (no miata ev14s up for sale)
I haven't heard of anyone has attempted to adapt ev14 wrx injectors to miata, however I'm confident I can do it... cheap of course!
I purchased 12mm EV14 spacers, which adapt to a 11mm bore (12mm long spacer to compensate for wrx length)
There are several options online, I purchased them from AeroFlow as I'm in Australia, part number AF64-2885
Other options: FlowForce part number FFTHI-4 (32USD)
Five-0 Motorsport part number IMP12X (36USD)
I bought: Aeroflow part number AF64-2885 (17USD)

Cost of gtx2867 gen 2 with my sourced components: $710usd
Cost of ID1000 with spacer solution: $300usd

With these parts, I should be able to have headroom to go 350whp+ on e85, now the stock pistons and damper being the weak link

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

Imo, the exhintake with adjustable cam gears are one of the most overlooked upgrades. I'm curious to hear the downside. I've run it NA and boosted with good results.

skuse

Merry Christmas and happy new year!
I'm back home in Australia and I've been busy with this build
Here's what I've done today!


ACL Main bearings and ARP Main studs installed





Sorry for the lack of photos but:
- installed crankshaft
- installed main caps and checked clearances, all in spec thankfully
- installed the pistons and rods, scary task but no issues even with the crappy ebay compressor. Slight scare as the top ring on the last piston slipped out! I was being gentle with the hammer though and ended up finessing it in by hand!
- installed rod bearings and caps but I'm waiting on a multi point socket to torque it down to spec


ARP headstuds installed and then I turned my attention to my diff!




Took me some learning to use these things haha, never been so precise in my life but an awesome couple tools






Here's my preload specs, 185.41mm or 7.299 inches, about 0.005 inches more preload than factory spec



and my backlash is within spec at 0.096mm or 0.0037" but on the tighter end of the spectrum


Next up I will very carefully lift the head onto the block! It's coming along alot faster than expected and shoutout the the machine shop who balanced my stuff in 1 day before christmas!

skuse

Been very busy with this thing, I'll let the photos do the talking

Head installed and sump ready for install

Oil and water lines 99% complete

Had a 1.8 IM gasket laying around but was for 94-97 so made my own with some gasket paper

WRX ID1000's with the 12mm spacers fit perfectly like a stock injector! Also got my oil tee installed

Made a bracket for my Toyota Yaris COP 's

I tried making the pigtails myself but gave up and ordered them on amazon

The 1.6 entire drivetrain ready to drop with the help of Pirate

skuse

Front bumper removed for the subframe to roll out

A good impact gun makes easy work out of the hub bolts torqued to 400,000 ft lbs, handbrake wasn't even on

The old 1.8 4.1 Open diff ready for swapping (I already have nb rear subframe)

Definitely recommend finding a friend if you're gonna drop the front subframe, but did it alone and didn't die which is definitely a good thing

Whole drivetrain is out! Time to remove some unnecessary stuff

Front nb subframe engine and gearbox is next!

skuse

NB drivetrain complete!

Seeing this in the car makes me very excited... I think I'm gonna cream my pants when I drive it

Ebay Radiator installed

Terrible photo but 3.6 torsen is in F**K the 1 piece shafts are insane to install! Managed to superman thrust it in somehow after losing my mind for 30 mins

DW300 install

Thought I'd find some sneaky rust but to my surprise the fuel tank looks brand new

Plug and play with 90-93 chasis, will see if I need to hardwire the pump though

Next up I have to finish wiring, fuel lines then start this thing up hopefully this week

SpartanSV

You'll really want to hardwire that pump. What fuel regulator are you using?

skuse

I'll most likely end up hardwiring it so it's not a problem on the dyno, I'm using just a generic ebay style afpr with the stock 1.6 fpr upside down. I plan to run 73.5 psi base pressure

Mudflap

I wouldn't skimp on the dampener. You'll need a strong clutch plate. I presume you'll do a coolant reroute. Looks like fun!

skuse

I would have loved a damper but just didnt make the budget, I do have the be billet oil pump gears and balanced internals so hope the harmonics aren't too bad

Clutch is rated to 405ft lbs but we'll see if it's dailyable, its an Xtreme KMZ20002-1R, 4 puck sprung

WigglingWaffles

This build is nice. Sub'd