I was wrong... very wrong.
 

So... When I bought my 99 10AE for $7k, thinking I got a total steal, I only got it for a decent price...

Essentially, I have now had to have everything that the person I bought the car from did himself redone...

have replaced the garbage turbo with a solid T25, replaced the hotside pipes, had beading welded onto all of the joints on the hot and cold side (seriously, who the hell doesn't bead the connections? WTF?)

Reran all of the vacuum to a block, instead of the garbage lil hoses all over the place with crappy joints...

Got some solid injectors, and upgraded from the LT-10s to a Haltech Sprint 500.

And now... it is getting completely rewired from where the douchecanoe wired it completely wrong... He wasn't even wired into the crank angle sensor... instead, he was just wired into one cam angle sensor... Not to mention the amount of horribly connected wires...

Hopefully will (finally) have it back soon. Still not terribly upset at the price (considering the professionally rebuilt motor, OEM 10AE hardtop in excellent condition and less than 40k original miles), but it still definitely stings...

But many of you were right...

do you pics of the bay before you started changing stuff?

Me, I race on it too.

Probably on borrowed time, but with proper clamps it should hold.

Like Curly, I haven't had any issues with non-beaded pipes at 10-12 PSI.

A little hair spray and t-clamps solved my coupler popping issues. After 3 years of running this set up I tried to take the couplers off and it was a bit of nightmare - I end up cutting them since I wasn't reusing them.

All this being said, my new set-up will be all beaded ... just because.

-Zach

Post some pics of the car. Pretty much any 10AE is worth at least $10k so I'm sure it was a great deal.

I have always wondered why some guys have so much trouble with pipes popping off and others don't. I am 2 plus years with el cheapo ebay pipes, clamps, and silicon joiners, no beading and all fine. I always thought I would have to go back and fix it but after all this time ok, I don't think I'll bother

Pictures
 

Hey again... Yeah, I will post pics of it as soon as I get it back from the shop again, whenever that might be. As far as the unbeaded connections, I was having a lot of problems. I was blowing connections regularly.

There's nothing wrong with just using one CAS signal when running wasted spark. It's the way 90% of us build the MegaSquirt.

Crank trigger is more accurate of course, and when used in conjunction with a CAS can be used for full sequential.

When I did my over-the-rad setup and didn't bead the pipes the couplers would slip off. Even after dumping half can of hair spray into em they'd still pop off.

dont half ass it. do it right once

880cc injectors? How much power are you planning on making?

Same. Holding just fine at 15PSI with t-bolt clamps and no beads.

About 250-270 hopefully. 880s are so that I can tune to E85.