idle trouble (going grey at 23)
 

ive finally put the whole thing together and now it wont idle. a little background:
'91 1.6L, t25, when i bought the car it had a aerodyn turbo with what appeared to be a bell engineering kit. BUT when i called corkey (talked to him on the phone) he asked what kind of intercooler it had, me: "it doesnt have an intercooler", corky: "thats probably the only kit ive ever sold without an IC".
car ran fine when i bought it, but the turbo seized. i replaced it with the t25.

now to the problem; it wont idle, i have to rev the motor to keep it on, and if i hold the throttle in one place(constant) the motor dies anyway (ie. i have to keep bliping the throttle). i disconected the wire to the MAF and it idled fine for about 30 sec. then went back to trying to die.
the MAF is mounted waffle pattern side down. when the aerodyn was in the MAF was waffle side up.

it seems to me the problem is with the MAF, does this sound right? does anyone have a spare MAF? can i use a 1.8 MAF on a 1.6?

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!

try this.


open the diagnostic box. and jump F/P and GND with a paper clip. try your test again.

do the same jumping TEN and GND. report back.

with or without the MAF wire connected?

With, that ones for the fuel pump right? If it is make sure the cars off, but key in the on position.

unplug it, jump, start, plug in. i wanna see whats brokened.

you may just need to clean the inside of the AFM contacts.

If yours is broke, i got an AFM from my 90 miata. I took it off because I installed a megasquirt and I have no need for it. Its unmolested and will come with the filter adaptor plate thingie so you can run an aftermarket filter.

it idles fine when F/P and GND are connected and the AFM wire is NOT connected. but when if i give it throttle it dies. when F/P and GND are connected and AFM wire is ALSO connected it will barely start then die. TEN and GND connected with or without AFM wire connected it will NOT idle, and will barely start only to die just after ignition.

any ideas Braineak?

i think it has to do with your AFM.

remove the black top, by cutting the edges. youll see a a wound spring.

when you push the flapper on the inside youll see a contact that moves across a little electrical path. you gotta clean that with alcohol. give that a whirl.

cleaned the elect. strip and the connections in the wire to the AFM. it didnt work. car still wont stay alive without throttle blips when the AFM wire is connected. the black top was held in with silicon. dont forget i bought this car already turboed.
any other ideas?

i should also add that: i bought the car last summer and the same half tank of fuel has been in it since then. also the gold colored ratchet toothed ring around the spring in the AFM has scoring on part of it.

does any of this make a difference?

Did you have to remove the MAF wiring harness when you swapped turbos? Did you undo the spring clip or remove the screws?

The quickest thing to do is borrow a good known working MAF from someone and swap it in.

The olny wire i removed concering the MAF is the connection to the MAF. i havent undone any screws concering the MAF. however, the ratcheting ring around the spring in the MAF has scoring on it. does any one have a functioning MAF i could borrow?

Where do you live?

tallahassee, FL

Knowing where you are might help. Do you not know anyone with a Miata?

no. how can i post a picture on the site.

https://www.miataturbo.net/gallery/f...n_ing._091.jpg

this is the ratcheting ring ive been talking about, it the scoring normal?

no it's not normal. its possible it jumped a tooth and unwound. idle the car with it plugged it by lightly hold the flapper open.

https://www.miataturbo.net/gallery/f...092_542029.jpg

so i wound the ratcheting ring counter-clock-wise until it looked like this at rest (ie. car is off). this let it to idle on its own, but a little rough at 1k rpm. how is it supposed to look from the factory?
how will this affect the A/F ratio?

with the ratcheting ring set this way 1 and 3 will never touch, and thus the contact at 2 will always be in contact. i cant imagine it is supposed to be this way, but it works.

any ideas?

dude i had the same problem sounds like your AFM is f***ed