Originally Posted by ins2g8r
(Post 1011182)
any chance your able to post or pm me a link or seller name for the turbo you bought? I would like to order one also, but can't seem to find the same one. Thanks in advance, and nice job on your project.
Cxracing T3 Internal Wastegate Turbo Charger turbocharger 42AR 8PSI 2 5" V Band | eBay I guess I haven't updated this thread in a while but people stopped replying so I figured you all lost interest :p I just got my new wideband in a couple days ago and found I have been running really rich this whole time, which is what I wanted until I had the wideband in, but the AFR was just sitting at 10.0 under boost. I backed off the regulator some and now it's around 10.5 and it instantly felt way faster, haha. I haven't gotten a chance to tune it any further than that yet, though I did also set my timing to 8* which really helped this thing at being able to start moving before 4k rpm, leaving red lights was absolutely painful. I also got a PCV valve through my work through a vendor that sells a lot of OEM parts, I used the part number for a 323 GTX PCV and got one that was listed as being an OEM part (meaning, it's the same brand that made the ones for mazda, but not a mazda branded part) I'm not so sure this was an OEM one though, it seems to only work sometimes... So, I also got an inline check valve but not before blowing out my valve cover gasket and possibly also my front crankshaft seal. So, while I had the valve cover off I cut it like a ricer and had it powdercoated. I also just discovered my oil feed line was leaking at the block too so that is fixed now. Umm, let's see, what else? Oh, I tore my rear differential apart because I noticed it was not locking and measured breakaway torque on it to be only 12 ft lbs... Upon dissassembly I found the clutch plates were arranged in the wrong order and one of the spider gears was frozen onto the spider. I took that to a local rear-end specialty shop who told me that was caused by one wheel spinning independent of the other while the diff was locked, probably caused by worn clutch plates. Well, I measured all the clutch plates to be almost perfectly in spec, but went ahead and added a .28mm shim, reassembled, and still only had 33 ft lbs of breakaway torque... It's better but still not as aggressive as I want it, so I'm going to start saving for a Tomei or Kaaz LSD though I can't decide if I want that or a megasquirt first... My exhaust has been rattling against the frame pretty good between about 4,800-5,500 rpms but last night I found that the v bands were not tight enough and now the exhaust barely moves at all so hopefully that is fixed now too. Haven't gotten a chance to drive it again because it's been having clutch issues lately too where it's really difficult to get into gear sometimes. The problem started when I want on a long drive with the new turbo after about an hour of hard driving through the back roads. The car has a new clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, a 949 racing braided clutch line, and was bled using a mighty-vac so I'm not sure if the fluid just got too hot and boiled or what, maybe I should try a racing brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Oh yeah, and I put Hawk HPS pads on all around last night too. I think that's everything I've done lately... Though I ordered a tool that should be here today that I'm sure every drifter wishes they had in their garage, pics to come :fawk: |
Originally Posted by ins2g8r
(Post 1011182)
any chance your able to post or pm me a link or seller name for the turbo you bought? I would like to order one also, but can't seem to find the same one. Thanks in advance, and nice job on your project.
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thanks for the link 6strngs.
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Originally Posted by ins2g8r
(Post 1011390)
thanks for the link 6strngs.
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buy a better turbo that drops right in that doesnt suck asshole.
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I thought from what i have seen posted that a 50 trim t3 was good for more lowend than a 60 trim, but then in this thred when you said it sounded like he had the same turbo as you do, which is good, i was going to buy that one. Seller didnt answer my question yet, and i have not ordered it yet. Didnt want to start a new post about what size turbo to order with out reading to find answer myself, all i could find were different thoughts and not more than one person recomending the same turbo.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1011545)
buy a better turbo that drops right in that doesnt suck asshole.
I've been wanting a 6-speed ever since I put the 4.1 ratio diff in though, even NA with 14* timing it accelerated much too slow for me. Maybe I'll just switch to a 4.3 or 4.7 when I get a new diff. I think the fact that it's been running ridiculously rich and had an exhaust leak might have been affecting my spool too. I would bleed the clutch and go drive it today to find out if I didn't have to go help a friend pull a motor out of one ef civic and put it into another ef civic. Maybe tomorrow |
Originally Posted by ins2g8r
(Post 1011601)
I thought from what i have seen posted that a 50 trim t3 was good for more lowend than a 60 trim, but then in this thred when you said it sounded like he had the same turbo as you do, which is good, i was going to buy that one. Seller didnt answer my question yet, and i have not ordered it yet. Didnt want to start a new post about what size turbo to order with out reading to find answer myself, all i could find were different thoughts and not more than one person recomending the same turbo.
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I found this one that seems to fit the bill, any thoughts on this one before I order?
t3 Compressor Wheel 0.42 A/R Cold Side Ind: 42.5 mm Exd: 60 mm Trim: 50.17 Turbiner Wheel 2.5" V-Band 0.48 A/R Hot Side Ind: 64 mm Exd: 46 mm Trim: 51.66 |
thats the one i use.
a real t3 has a 60mm compressor wheel, not a 71mm or 76mm compressor wheel; that makes it a t4. |
thank you so much, reading and reading and reading threads paid off, I am getting the correct turbo :)
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Originally Posted by 6strngs
(Post 997672)
What I got says .48 A/R exhaust, 0.42 A/R compressor, and the compressor wheel measures about 60mm diameter.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 997675)
60mm diameter = t3 not t4.
A/R numers mean little in determining the TYPE of turbo. It appears you have the exact same turbo as me, which is good. |
your compressor wheel is NOT 60mm, it's at least 71mm going on 82mm. Your inducer is probably 60mm considering the inlet is 2.75". I'm willing to bet it's a T04E sized wheel.
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Originally Posted by 6strngs
(Post 1011604)
What? And miss out on all the shit you guys give me? :giggle: Can I even get a t3-flanged turbo smaller than this?
I've been wanting a 6-speed ever since I put the 4.1 ratio diff in though, even NA with 14* timing it accelerated much too slow for me. Maybe I'll just switch to a 4.3 or 4.7 when I get a new diff. I think the fact that it's been running ridiculously rich and had an exhaust leak might have been affecting my spool too. I would bleed the clutch and go drive it today to find out if I didn't have to go help a friend pull a motor out of one ef civic and put it into another ef civic. Maybe tomorrow If you want more response just spend another $125 or whatever for the 50 trim Churbo. |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1011893)
If you want more response just spend another $125 or whatever for the 50 trim Churbo.
no no no. he has the same turbo as me. he gets 15psi in 3rd at 3.3K like I do too. |
Ah I re-read the thread and see that he does indeed have the same turbo. I thought he had one of the larger T3/T4 hybrids from the way he was talking.
But my point still stands. OP needs real tuning, and changing the rear end won't help that. |
NO HE DOESNT. im being an asshole.
he has some huge ass turbo that spools like limp dick on his shitty 1.6L motor. wtf is wrong with everyone. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1011888)
your compressor wheel is NOT 60mm, it's at least 71mm going on 82mm. Your inducer is probably 60mm considering the inlet is 2.75". I'm willing to bet it's a T04E sized wheel.
With an exhaust leak, 8* timing, and running stupid rich I hit about 6 psi in 2nd, and 8 psi in 3rd by about 6000 rpm. Everytime I bog off the line I see my wideband reads 10.0 AFR, that's as low as the gauge reads so probably running even richer than that. Until 4K rpms the car is considerably faster at partial throttle than WOT because of how rich it runs at WOT. I haven't gotten a chance to play with the adjustment on the AFPR yet because of stupid other little issues here and there I've had. I'm sure with proper tuning it would run a LOT better. Just from the one adjustment I've made so far which brought my WOT AFR's from a solid 10.0 to ~10.4-10.5 the car felt WAY better. |
oh okay, i misread you post. :)
fix your shit. |
Yeah I think he TRIED to buy the bigger 57 trim but they sent him the 50 trim which is good for him.
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