Project84

iTrader: (2)

Made by previous owner, modded to work by me... still pathetic.

Re-make: yes or no? How necessary would you say it is to replace it?

stlxsr

iTrader: (1)

will that even fit? thats a pretty sharp 90 there...

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

It's called clearing the shelf and firewall, the 90 is kind of necessary.

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

If it works use it, doesn't seem to be any sharp bends.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

that 90 at the turbo is not a 90. it's a sharp bend. if there was any part you'd redo, it'd be that.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

looooolol

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

If you get your turbo to sit lower you can eliminate the need for that sharp cut to clear the FW. You wonder why BEGI and FM all have there turbos sit lower... Less bends = more power.

Project84

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, eventually the manifold will be replaced. It's an....... oh no.... OBX. I didn't buy it, PO did. I'm just trying to get the car limping so I can stop paying $75/mon for the storage unit.

Verdict is in, I'm buying a new v-band when I buy all the silicone couplers to finish the FMIC.

railz

iTrader: (33)

is that v-band sturdy? i saw that same one on ebay and was wondering if its any good since it was the cheapest on there.

Project84

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't know what to compare it to since it's the first I've ever had my hands on. Seems like it's going to make a good seal though. PO had some carbon paper wedged between the v-band on the turbo and the DP, so maybe it's a crappy seal. IDK, car hasn't ran since I bought it.

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

What's with the band clamp?

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Looks like the joint fron the lower elbow of the DP to the flex joint section.

To the OP, I'd use it. I've seen worse. You can always upgrade later. If you get caught up doing everything now, you won't be able to ever enjoy it. Get it on the road and see what you want to do.

Project84

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I wanted band clamps so I could mod the exhaust if ever wanted to. As it is now w/ the band clamps I can remove the entire exhaust assembly in like 30 seconds.

I wanted to be able to remove the downpipe from the top and the flex section w/ wideband bung seperately from the rest of the meaningless exhaust behind the driver.

...this is the other side of that same downpipe. Embarassed to show this one.



This is what happens when a noob (the previous owner) welds in o2 bungs before mocking up the DP. One sensor was literally resting against the manifold when inserted. So naturally I cut a bung out and needless to say, I noobed and cut the wrong one out. Ended up having to cut both out and patch both holes. Doesn't matter really, they're more easily accessible now and easier to remove/insert. Had to move the wideband anyway because it was too close to the turbo .

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

30 seconds huh, wow!!

Project84

iTrader: (2)

...don't be a dick.

Maybe like 5 minutes, including jacking the car up. ***.

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

Just giving you a hard time. My next DP will use a v-band as well, makes life so much easier!

Project84

iTrader: (2)

I just hope it seals well. Scares me there was some type of cardboard paper stuffed in the v-band when I bought the car.

slickrick

it doesnt look that bad, that clamp looks a little weak though.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Those exhaust clamp/bands work well. I say leave it until you have time to fab something else. By the time the manifold falls to pieces you should have your materials accumulated to redo the pipe better if wanted.

fluke

This will work, it'll just cut down your turbine efficiency.

If you're running an OBX manifold, I wouldn't rebuild the downpipe yet. No point in rebuilding the DP if you are going to do the manifold at a later time, as you'll want to change the turbo position then.

Get it running, tear it down in the winter and rebuild the manifold and downpipe together, get the turbo low and as far forward as possible.