Just finished my 1.8 turbo, need help....
 

Enter my 95M, I was 15yrs old when the car was purchased from an auction it had been totalled due to head on collision for $500. I've spent about a year planning this and purchasing parts and so forth. We started out last saturday night, grabbed my tools from the house and gathered the parts and the laptop and a 12 pack of High Life.






Pictures are slow to come by because I have yet to drive back to my house to get my USB cable, but give me a few days and i'll have them pouring in. The car is my DD so no huge power goals here just aiming for some more smiles my way and more frowns from the srt-4 crowd . Decided to try the "over the top" IC pipe routing (pictures to come) because it seems if some people are intimidated by trying it.





Engine/Drivetrain-

Stock 1.8 bottom end, no modifications at all. 140k on the clock.

Mild head work (3 angle valve job, port match)

Stock Cams

323 GTX PCV Valve

ACT HD Clutch Kit (pressure plate, street disc)

Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel (I believe around 8lbs?)

Stock 1.8 Torsen Diff and Trans. (Redline Fluids)



Fuel & Ignition-

90 RX-7 460cc Injectors (cleaned and flow tested courtesy RC)

Stock Fuel Rail

NGK BKR7E Spark Plugs (gapped .35)

Stock Coils and Belken wires

Stock Fuel Pump



Engine Management-

Braineack Standalone MS-1 w/harness (Brain is definitely dopeshitzz )

Innovate LC-1 Wideband/Controller

Innovate DB Blue Gauge

Tunerstudio



Turbo Goodies-

T3/T04E .50 compressor trim, .63 turbine A/R (oil cooled only)

ARTech Stainless Steel Manifold (BEAUTIFUL PIECE!)

EM-USA External Wastegate (5psi spring)

Synchronic Synapse BOV

Custom 2.5" Downpipe and wastegate dump

ARTech 3" Stainless Exhaust

ARTech -4an Oil Feed line, 1/2" Gates return hose

BEGi Fittings (return and feed)

Chrysler Conquest FMIC w/modded endtanks

CXRacing DIY IC pipe kit



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Currently having some small irritating issues, car doesn't want to idle when I come to a stop it sinks down then dies. Also, I believe i've encountered an electrical interference problem because my tach is jumping all over the place and my coolant temp gauge keeps going up and down even though Tunerstudio reads nothing above 207 degrees and the fan is working and coolant full. The temperature problem didn't start happening til early this morning on the way home. Drove the car all day yesterday with no problems. This morning the tach was jumping all over and the temp gauge kept going from oper. temp to hot and back. Any help with either of these please guys?

Currently using a synapse BOV, with vacuum lines hooked up according to instructions but no boost signal line hooked up, apparently the instructions say you only need that if your above 7psi which im not, so the BOV gets signal from the intercooler piping it says? I was just curious if this blow off valve is whats causing my idle to shutter and stall.

Sounds like you forgot to reconnect the ground under the brake master cylinder to your engine.

Very good start man. well sorted

There are only a few times I've seen that color pulled off well... I think it's all in the wheel selection.

Opinions: Cut valve cover and stock camgears is very FTL.

Facts: Huge intro thread with pics in first post is very FTW.

Reread those instructions chief. BOVs usually get their vac signal from the intake mani (after the throttle body). It's just that extra line for 7+ psi that would go to pre-TB IC piping. But no, I seriously doubt the BOV is causing your idle issues.

Your BOV will not affect your idle at all. You run a speed density based system now, so the only things that will f with your idle will be post throttle body. My advice to you: Turn off idle control completely and adjust your idle using the BISS until you are idling where you want it. Then turn idle control back on and adjust the DC%s until you have a stable idle. TBH if you don't have AC/PS I always suggest ditching the ISC completely. You might have to adjust it 2-3x a year when the weather changes, but it takes 10 seconds :).

Correct, I guess my question was, which I worded wrong is can I leave that extra nipple uncapped?

Yes, you should leave it uncapped.

Sorry to be so noob about it but your abbreviations confused me slightly, basically your saying turn off Tunerstudio Idle Control and adjust using the TB screw? Then turn back on and adjust % accordingly. But the part about ditching the ISC confused me? Please elaborate lol.


18psi & samnavy: thank you for the compliments and constructive criticism.

Attached a copy of my MSQ, I basically just used the auto feature to determine a safe amount to start with and havent really made any changes except cranking PW's which Brain sent me. You more experienced MS users please feel free to chime in and make suggestions and comments!!

You are correct with the adjustment part. If the idle screw is turned too far in, you are making the ISC work too hard which can lead to the stalling that you are experiencing.

What I meant by ditching the ISC was to turn it off (or only use it for warmup, which is what I do). If you don't have air conditioning or power steering to add additional load on your motor when it is idling you can get away with just using the set screw to hold your idle steady. With no ISC/TPS my car holds a rock solid 800rpm idle with no dips or sags. Its up to you though, I for one am a huge fan of removing everything that isn't necessary from my car to simplify operation and reduce the chance of breakage while still maintaining streetability.

Edit: your MSQ looks fine. I misread the part about your temp gauge rising and I thought that perhaps you were actually overheating and TS might have been misrepresenting the temps. There have been a few cases of people forgetting to unlock their timing after setting base timing and I just wanted to make sure you didn't :).

car looks familiar. let me guess they used to call you Mike.
looks good .

Ahh ok good news, im just suspicious of this coolant temp thing going on? I drove around a whole day in probably 70-75 degree ambient temps in and out of boost no problem and yes fan was cutting on and working, but my coolant temps according to TS were only about 8 degrees warmer then before I ever put the turbo setup on. Early this morning even with the fan supposedly coming on and the cooling system being full with no air pockets it "said" it was overheating. Stock radiator and fans with no re-route and an intercooler in the way now can it be that drastic on the cooling system and make it over heat? I figured since my tach was all over the place that maybe it was an electrical issue :x: for a grounding issue!!!

Turbo green NB?

Well if it is jumping around, there is definitely the possibility of a ground problem, but if it slowly climbs up and drops back down, you could have air pockets.

Ok, going out to the garage I guess to check for loose grounds and I believe I should pop the radiator cap off and see if I can get a burp out of her just in case. Thanks again everybody, jeff especially.

correct how you been mike lol.
i told you i'd sell you the kit, looks good though.
did you talk to Zabac (danijel) lately? he may get to build his in 2019

Looks just like my manifold! I like ;)

*update*
checked over my engine grounds and it just so happened to be the engine ground under the brake booster, it broke in half and was just dangling there. Thanks again for the tips and pointers guys!

I just want to say: told you so.

:p

Figured I would update this because I got my new turbo and intercooler on! Pix are from iPhone so please disregard the quality. Freshly rebuilt Garrett T3 for a steal...

Went from a .50 trim t3/t04e with .63 turbine chinacharger to a Garrett T3/T4 .42 compressor/ .48 turbine. The other turbo I would see 10psi around 4200-4400 and spool around 2800 this new turbo, spool around 1800-2200 and full boost by 3000 everytime.

Wickeddddd fast spool compared to the last turbo, also went with a new thicker core intercooler over my previous modified conquest intercooler. 2.5" endtanks 2.75" core.

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