FFFFUUUCCCCKKKK. Must be a busy little hairdryer then. So I basically need a turbo with a more linear onset of boost to keep my internals from getting free right? The 2860RS seems like a violent little shit compared to my current turbo.

not to sound like a dick or anything, but it sounds like you don't really know what's going on. WTF is "linear onset"? What does that have to do with anything?

You're all over the place. What goal are you trying to achieve by switching turbos? Less boost for the same power? More power?

Well I thought you were suggesting a turbo that didn't have a narrow efficiency range like yours for a couple seconds, and then you'd have to shift, and that I wanted a smaller turbo with linear boost all the way up to full spool? That's why supercharger boost is more friendly than turbo boost on internals? Thats what I inferred from your post when you said I'd want a larger housing with a tiny turbine wheel for my 11.5:1 CR. Please tell me I am making sense. :hustler:

Same power for less boost for now 8psi vs. my 10psi, and more power for less boost than my current turbo later 11-12psi, therefore giving me headroom for when I want to move into 250+rwhp territory. Am I being ridiculous?

the engine only knows rpm, afr, iat, and compression...it doesn't care where it gets the air or how fast it builds.

A larger turbine housing lets exhaust move through more easily, creating less pressure on the hot side, but probably spins up slower. However there's a trade off/ sweet spot between flow and turbine RPM. Since you're high-comp, you can probably benefit from the larger housing.

Yes, you're being ridiculous. I don't know anything about tuning high compression motors, but I wouldn't waste my time with that shit. I don't think we have the technology in our 30-year old motors to run high-comp with FI. You'll need to spray water to make this work.

It seems to me like money is just burning a hole in your pocket.

Not really sure what the deal is with "same power for less boost" is. You read "more efficient", I read "spools slower". Run the smallest turbo possible that will achieve your horsepower goal. I wanted 200whp, so I did a .49 A/R T25. Then I wanted 220-230, so I did a 2554R. Then I wanted 400whp, so I did a 2871R.

You don't need to change turbos RIGHT NOW, just like I didn't need to buy a 2871R when I had a stock block. Get everything else in order, get a built motor and a 6-speed into the car, and then think about turbos that will do 250+whp.

I just have like 500-600 bucks laying around, I was going to sell my turbo to some ricer fag for 350 bucks and pick up a bigger snail so I can make some more power. Guess it just doesnt make sense.

Yeah there is a handicap with the high CR 01-05 motor, VVT makes some fuelling/timing tricky, you're capped at about 250hp and I have to pull more timing than you guys.

Magna makes it sound easy in his sig, but I was looking at what's involved, and pulling my motor for the weekend sounds easier for now.

Sav, I've reached the conclusion that I'm not going to be able just swap snails and be done with it a few posts back. I'm going to order the M-Tuned rods and a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. I'm going to build a motor worthy of Mordor.

You might need a few things other than M-Tuned rods and a torque wrench... just saying

You're going to want to at least hone and re-ring, and by the time you do that pistons are only like $200 extra. You'll need bearings too, as well as a full seal kit, so don't think you can just "pop the motor open" and throw some rods in it.

Instead of wasting your time fucking up your car, why not put that energy to something useful like cleaning my apartment?

I'm gonna go read some more before I spend any money tonight. No, I didnt think it was as simple as "toss some rods in there". I was going to get the supertech pistons and rings, and belfab bearings. Like I said, I'm gonna read some more before you guys start e-thugging me.

Err.. sure Hustler, if you want a dude to come clean your apartment for you, I'll drop by if I ever visit Bell. You did help me a shit ton on m.net when I just got the car.

Your magical "500-600" dollars just turned into 2 grand for pistons, rods, oil pump gears, gasket set, bearings, as well as machining costs and labor for somone to put together a motor is well over 1000 on top of that. But if you DIY you dont need to pay for the costs. There is no real "pop it open; slap it in" cheap solution like sav said.

It's true, engine building gets expensive. It is a very slippery slope.

It gets expensive if you aren't disciplined and you don't stick to the plan. You can do a shortblock for well under $2k if you work at it, or you can just mail everything to John day in Texas and he'll do it all for $1600, including assembly.

Chris, welcome to miataturbo.net :-D haha.


I don't think they're trying to e-thug you around that bad, just trying to save yourself some time and money. Sure you could sell your t25 to some ricer fag and get a larger turbo but the cost for power benefit wouldn't be that great especially if it's not tuned right and then your stock block goes and then a small peice of a bearing shoots through the turbo and your fucked.... just saying.

Good luck with your build :)

I built my "wonder-motor" for $2k. I don't think that's remotely expensive for what you get.

Sorry for the minor threadjack, but do you have any of John Day's contact information? Thanks

972.235.7405
Trey Rozelle sent you.

Thank you very much

This thread is a good illustration of the boost obsession. You guys are never satisfied. I understand the love for a specific vehicle ie. the Miata but thousands of dollars for built motors, going through 2 even 3 turbos on the same car. A car worth less than the turbo setup. This is madness! Do what I did and buy an Evo - 19.5psi factory.

Then again, I have yet to pilot a turbo Miata so what do I know?