Lc-1 12V source
#1
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Lc-1 12V source
I just want to make sure that I can get the 12V power from this white/pink wire (located under steering column) on my fuel pump relay (pictured below). My St Sign fuse is blown, so I do not know if this 12V source will still work.
My car is a 92'.
Is it true that if I got the 12V from my ECU, if my LC-1 shorts, it will also short my ECU?
My car is a 92'.
Is it true that if I got the 12V from my ECU, if my LC-1 shorts, it will also short my ECU?
#3
pull 12 volts directly out of the battery and simply use a relay activated by either your radio or another source my relay is hooked up to the radio. Its a miata, its only few feet of new wiring. Run it in the center console. Install the LC1 controller right in front of the shifter under the air bag key. There is a tiny spot that the LC1 controller fits perfectly in. Then lift off the rubber boot around the shifter and pass your WB sensor through there.
#5
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Actually Ken and James, the MS3 devs told me they did not like running the lc-1 off the same power line as the ECU because of the amount of amperage it can pull. I still have been running mine off there since 2007 and I don't think I have ever had a problem.
#7
I've actually moved mine from the ECU 12v supply as the LC-1 doesn't like perma-live while cranking - it can cause heater calibration errors.
I've tapped the heater core 12v supply which is huge gauge cable compared to the ECU supply. That supply also cuts during cranking, but is live with the engine running. That is what the LC-1 wants.
I've tapped the heater core 12v supply which is huge gauge cable compared to the ECU supply. That supply also cuts during cranking, but is live with the engine running. That is what the LC-1 wants.
#17
I am thinking about using a Single Pole Double Throw relay with a 12v source from the blue diagnostic connector (which is only hot when the key in the ignition is set to "on"), and ACC from the radio harness for deactivation during cranking. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to wire this.
Can I splice the ACC wire into 85, have 86 go to radio ground, wire the 12v source to 30, and have 87a go to the LC-1?
Sorry I am really bad when it comes to wiring electronics. I am slowly learning however. I do know that the LC-1 needs close grounds to the ECU and no voltage drops.
Also some fun facts for you, the LC-1 draws 1 amp running and 2 amps during warmup. Innovate advises a minimum fuse size of 5 amps.
Can I splice the ACC wire into 85, have 86 go to radio ground, wire the 12v source to 30, and have 87a go to the LC-1?
Sorry I am really bad when it comes to wiring electronics. I am slowly learning however. I do know that the LC-1 needs close grounds to the ECU and no voltage drops.
Also some fun facts for you, the LC-1 draws 1 amp running and 2 amps during warmup. Innovate advises a minimum fuse size of 5 amps.
#18
I did some multimeter testing and found that the diagnostic connector, blower motor, and radio 12v all go to ~4-5v during cranking. The only option for LC-1 power I think is by using a relay to cut power altogether during cranking.
EDIT: forget what I said, I forgot the wiper circuit is switched during cranking. Should be easy enough to install an "add a fuse" to the wiper fuse for 12v. Easy as pie. boom. pow.
EDIT: forget what I said, I forgot the wiper circuit is switched during cranking. Should be easy enough to install an "add a fuse" to the wiper fuse for 12v. Easy as pie. boom. pow.
Last edited by Cococarbine3; 10-07-2010 at 01:28 AM.
#20
I haven't seen any manual that states it needs a constant 12v during cranking. From what I have been gathering the low voltages (5v) messes with the lc1. However, I find it odd that innovate wouldn't compensate for this problem as this occurs in every car.
At any rate, this seems to be the ticket.
At any rate, this seems to be the ticket.