lc-1 reading way lean
 

Before you ask, I did the free air and heater calibrations with the sensor hooked up sitting on my valve cover. I then disconnected, installed, and re-connected the sensor.

I get a E2 error, only blinks about 5 times on start up. It will warm up, read H10-H99 then will start to read AFR. Problem is, it reads in the high 20's low 30's when cold. If I give it a blip, it will dip down about 5 then shoot up to around 50.

So my question is, did the sensor calibrate wrong? Is the sensor bad? My white, blue, and gauge ground are all soldered to the same ground lug. Should I force another heater and free air cal? I can't tell what voltage yet, I need to grab the wires so I can hook up to laptop, do you think that has something to do with it? Is there a reset so I can reset it back to original configuration? Thanks for any help.

I'm pretty sure you need to scale it first.
Just follow the instructions.
It's something like 5V=22.7 AFR
Also, remember to set it for gasoline on the first dialogue box.

Yeah I figured I had to connect it to my laptop. I bought this used so I don't know what it was set to. I have the cables ordered, will be here Thursday so hopefully I can fix it.

Reset to factory calibration and it is still doing the same thing. Think I need a new sensor?

Did you just reset it, or did you connect to your laptop and go through the proper setup procedure?

Connected to laptop. Ran LM programmer. Clicked factory defaults. Programmed controller. Pulled sensor out. Turned back on. Sensor heated up, ran heater calibration, and free air calibration. Unplugged sensor, re installing in exhaust pipe. Turned car on, still reading crazy.

Reading crazy where?

All of these devices are microprocessor controlled and can be individually calibrated to different scales. Where are you reading this? An Innovate gauge? A third party gauge? An MS? Do you have a multimeter to troubleshoot with?

Also, never, ever solder wires to a lug for use in a high-vibration environment. Never, ever, ever.

Using the XD-16 gauge. I have a multimeter. I just did what Innovate told me to :(

So, you're hooked up via the serial cable, right?

And the XD-16 is configured to be an AFR or Lambda gauge, not an RPM gauge or something else?

I just double checked, it is hooked up correctly. I reset it once again to factory defaults, and it was set at Custom so I switched it back to Gasoline. I think that may have been my problem I didn't recognize it last time. I free air cal'd it twice and both times it settled on 20.9.

So now I start the car, and it idles low 20's. When I touch the throttle, it shoots to under 10. If I hold the pedal to the floor, it misfires like crazy and the gauge stays under 8. I have a feeling this has something to do with my clt sensor not being hooked up. I am still chasing down that problem. Maybe tomorrow I will just hard wire it and see what happens.

Also, after about 10 minutes of running, it flashes E8. So I need to move it farther down the exhaust. Yay. Any tips on doing this without a welder? Or is it impossible? Thanks for the help so far!

I've got an entire write-up on error 8 here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-lc-1-a-58873/

Requires a firmware upgrade to the LC-1. Fortunately, you can do that yourself and the firmwares are in my write-up. I did the firmware update 3.5 years ago and it's been trouble free ever since.

You using a custom ECU or the OEM? Can't imagine how the car could idle at 20:1.

Stock ECU, I will check your thread out! I know mine is running the 1.10 firmware, don't know if that's the latest I didn't think to check!

So at idle it's reading between 20-30.
On Decel, it's reading 20.9
On Accel, it's reading rich around 9-10.
At cruise (2nd gear going about 25mph) it's around 14-15.
So, I think it's reading right, I just have a bad misfire condition at idle. My timing light furthers my interest. With ten and gnd jumped, my timing light will skip every now and then, indicating a misfire. So now I need to figure out why it is misfiring at idle. If it is at idle it probably is at speed as well. Bleh.

The OEM ECU NEEDS a NBO2 input. Otherwise you're in a limp mode. You also need an AFM and no vacuum leaks after the AFM. What year car? Do you have a NBO2 or do you have one of the LC-1s outputs configured as a NBO2 to support the OEM ECU?

Yup, I have the analog 1 output set as a narrowband simulation. Set at the factory settings. It's a '92 with a greddy kit. The afm is before the air filter. I have clamps on everything after the afm.

IIRC, with factory settings:

1. LC-1 Output 1 is a WBO2 (Linear 0VDC = 10:1 and 5VDC = 20:1).
2. LC-1 Output 2 is a NBO2 (Rapidly switches from 0VDC to 1VDC at 14.7:1).

Better double check. This is where your multimeter comes in handy.

Other way around I believe. I'm new to the wiring thing, only thing I have learned and checked is continuity. How to check voltages? Just set to DC and probe power and ground?

Set to DC. Black probe on chassis ground. Red probe on the wire you're interested in.

Set on 20. At idle, goes from .07 to .09. Given a quick 4k rev, on accel stays .10. When revs start coming down it reads .85 to .94.

If that's the wideband gauge output you're checking, you hooked it up backwards.

Wideband should swing between 0 and 5 volts.