Lowering Boost Method
So I've been searching around to see if I can find a way to lower the boost in my T3. I know that lengthening the actuator rod will work but will make it spool slower.
Here is another method I found: http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html It looks interesting but the author doesn't give much details. Does this method help reduce the negative effects of lengthening actuator rods? What the benefit of adding this spring? Thanks guys. |
why would you want less than 7psi?
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I am a newbie at this so I want to set it at 5 psi and work my way up. I am purschasing a WB and will be using that to tune. I just want to set the turbo at a "safer" setting, learn to tune it, then increase the boost later on.
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Originally Posted by jay526
(Post 157983)
I am a newbie at this so I want to set it at 5 psi and work my way up. I am purschasing a WB and will be using that to tune. I just want to set the turbo at a "safer" setting, learn to tune it, then increase the boost later on.
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Depending on what EMS you're using, the megasquirt base maps we have available are pretty damn close for just about any car. Close enough that you could retard the ignition a degree or two extra and bump the fuel a little rich and head down the road with autotune on safely at 7 psi. Atleast that's what I did.
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just use a reverse helper spring problem solved. With that i was able to run 5 psi on a 12 psi can.
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CHICKENS! all chickens!
how about not flooring it until it's tuned. you shouldn't really drive it until it is anyway. but not flooring it will keep you from full boost. but leaving the WG open is fine. more importantly: what do you care if you build boost fast or not if the car's not tuned properly? |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 158005)
Depending on what EMS you're using, the megasquirt base maps we have available are pretty damn close for just about any car. Close enough that you could retard the ignition a degree or two extra and bump the fuel a little rich and head down the road with autotune on safely at 7 psi. Atleast that's what I did.
Once I get it tuned in "safe" then I'll hit up BEGi for some dyno tuning for power. |
I am using DIYautotune's timing map with no indicated knock fwiw. Their map is already retarded some from their dynotuned car. As for fuel, it doesn't really matter because you'll be tuning it realtime anyway. Just keep it from going lean.
Man it's cool there are so many going MS. |
just use a reverse helper spring problem solved. With that i was able to run 5 psi on a 12 psi can. |
2 Attachment(s)
No take a spring and clamp it to the rod attach the spring to a plate or something away from the actuator and the force of the spring will pretension the WG allowing you to dial back boost as far as you like.
Attachment 215761 mine was even adjustable cause of my threaded eye hook on one end Attachment 215762 |
Cool. Thanks.
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Richard I love your "brace" :gay:
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If you like i can make one for you to i still have the original. ;) lemme know.
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I for one just think not flooring it is a great idea until your ready to man up and go for >7 psi. :)
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