nitrodann

Hey guys,

So the car with the GT2560 that made 297 on an AVO manifold and dump has a cracked manifold.
I knew it has an exhaust leak but never expected this.

Due to an event which has already been planned and paid for the owner has given me 2 days to remove the engine, build an entirely new hotside and exhaust, refit the MS, tune EBC and get it to the track.

It has no PS or AC and is a 1.6L with a 2560

Please blast me with photos of manifold and suggest what I should build.

the car was going to be left with me for a month in order for me to take my time and build the best setup possible and see what a 2560 could make running all of it on a fully worked built engine on E85 but alas this has happened.

This is the setup it has made 297rwhp on.





Thanks for everyones help,
Dann

curly

iTrader: (25)

I'm confused, this is a friends/customer's car that broke while you were tuning it and you need to fix it? He was giving you a month, then it broke, and now you have 2 days? Is the motor already out like in the picture?

Here's mine, since you asked.

nitrodann

He's a friend of mine. the exhaust leak was noticed a week ago, after a 1km drag event.

The car was given me to have the ECu reinstalled and the EBC tuned, its monday night here and he is leaving for the weekend thursday morning. It was to be job done on a free evening.

While going over the car in preparation for the weekend for him Ive found the cracked manifold. This weekend was to be the last event that the car was driven on this setup.

It was to be raced like this, and then left with me for a month to build a new setup in my own time.

Now I have 2 days to build all the hotside gear.

Im hoping someone car give me some ideas as to what I can build quickly, so that I dont have to build a setup that runs for only one weekend, and then rebuilding it properly.

yes I removed the engine this afternoon in preparation.

Dann

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Weld up the crack? Its cast so its not going to be super easy. But I'm sure he'd rather have you do a quick fix on it than try to slap something together in two days that you were planning on making in a month.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

A log like curly posted will probably be easiest and fastest.
Next up would be a smoother 4-2-1 log using els that would probably flow better.

IMO those are you only choices for something simple and easy to make.

Why not just weld the sh* out of the cracked current mani, have him race the car for the 1 day, then build a good setup without being rushed?

*edit: Leafy beat me to it.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Ho Lee Schitt, you're agreeing with Leafy? What is is this world coming to??!?!?

nitrodann

You ever welded cast before?

It doesnt melt it just disintegrates.

Dann

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

"has" being the operative word.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I thought the same thing as I edited the post
Yup.
Its possible. Not easy or ideal, but possible. In most cases anyway.

SJP0tato

iTrader: (7)

I'm a neophyte when it comes to welding, but can't you just braze the manifold enough to fill the crack, run it for the event, then take your time like these guys are suggesting?

Maybe fab up a brace for the turbo while you're at it to take as much strain off the manifold/braze as possible?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The "Build me a manifold and a downpipe in 2 days" kind of customers are why I don't build cars anymore. Inevitably he won't be happy with the results, and it will reflect poorly on your skills as a fabricator. **** that noise.

In order of preference:
-Weld the crack (try this first no matter what, since the manifold is already ruined)
-Buy used OTS FM/BEGi parts, overnight parts in, then sell post-event
-Fab up a super-cheap log manifold and use his current downpipe
-Tell him to skip his event

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Rent a Spec Miata.

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

Tell customer to go back to stock. Slower class is more competitive.

Gt2560rMiata

iTrader: (-2)

just curious. know anything about the inside of the motor ? stock internals or running forged goodies ?

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

You're doin' it wrong.


Properly weld the crack and return car to customer.



http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx


Select the correct rod and follow the guide. Drill and v-out the crack, preheat the crap out of it, weld with correct rod, let cool in a bucket of Lime.

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

V is a great tip!

nitrodann

Hes a good friend of mine, So if he wants something better than I can slap together in 2 days there's no hastle having him remove it and sell it and have me rebuild it all.

I think Ill build an AVO replacement straight up as fast as I can, and leave it there incase I cannot finish the rest of what i want to do.

That way at least all of the rest of the AVO gear can be sold as a package down the track also.

Sound sensible?

Dann

nitrodann

Full built and worked, read the first post.

Dann

nitrodann

Heres what we went with.

It will need 1 new hotside cooler pipe and a dump.



Obviously this pic is at the start of the build. At this point not even the port shapes have been hammered out of the steampipe.

Im doing a 3" downpipe and a 3 foot long straight pipe for the exhaust. It will do for the weekend.

Thanks for everyones help, it will hit the dyno tomorrow arvo cos I suspect it will spool a lot better than the old setup and will need a work in its new found area under the curve.

Ill post what it makes. Then Ill sell the setup.

Dann

matt|H

Interesting as I have the same AVO manifold with similar damage and was looking at going down the "steampipe" route.

What did you use to cut for the turbo flange? The pipes I had temporarily are mega thick... maybe too thick for Dremel and the hole is too small for angle grinder... Eek!