More "final" install questions
 

For the manifold: I was supplies nuts to bolt the mani to the block. Are the studs coming out of the block of sufficient strength that I shouldn't worry about them. Is there any prep work needed to attach the mani. I've got a new metal gasket. Which side of the gasket goes towards the block, the thin side or thick side?

DP to the turbine: I was supplied studs. I am aware of the 2xNUTS technique. The short side of the stud goes into the turbine, right? After a test fitting of the DP, there is very little clearance in there for the wastegate flapper to open up. If I wanted to trim the flapper slightly (a very minute amount) would anybody advise against that? It would just be a millimeter or less and would still fully seat and seal.

Initial Bipes setting: I was thinking I would need to be down to about 6*-8* upon reaching full boost about 3500rpm... and then pull just a little more. Somebody post their switch settings and theory.

Someone smarter than me can correct this is i'm wrong, but I don't think the flapper has to open "fully" to get the desired results. This is from a Mitsu turbo test though.

I haven't heard anyone switching the studs. I'm not much help heh

What metal gasket are you using? (Did it come with the manifold is what I mean.)

Garret WG outlets suck, hence the widespread use of external or divorced WGs.

Sam, I wouldn't cut anything. Just make sure the ports are smooth and as wide as you can manage. Check that your WG actuator will open the WG as far as it can go.

I haven't seen a lot of boost creep complaints, so it may be that the Garrett WG design isn't a big deal on teeny tiny engines. :D

If you're using a conical turbine outlet, you may need to have the short side of the stud exposed on the bottom one (at least), as the DP bend might interfere with getting a nut on the long side of the stud. Just have to look and see.

This is the gasket I bought: http://www.finishlineperformance.com...n&key=MIAG1007

Although I'm using a DSM compressor housing that the WG actuator bolts too, I'm using the WG actuator that came with the SR20 turbine housing that I'm using.

The problem is that the wastegate WONT open as far as it will go. In fact, I'd say that the wastegate will probably open about 45*... is that enough to fully vent? Then it hits the inside of the DP. I've got the new Begi DP with the seperate WG routing.

If I had to guess, I'd say the gasket goes with the visible side to the manifold; but it's most likely okay either way.

Is this the DP setup? http://www.bellengineering.net/Image...pe2_flange.jpg
45* might be okay. It's been a while, but I think the standard Garrett internal WG turbine outlet doesn't even open 45*... it also points it at the flat wall of the housing, not the outlet.

Over in the crazy land of Volvos, there was a guy who made an adjustable WG arm; effectively moved the pivot point inward toward the WG's axis; got some more rotation out of it that way.

the wastegate swingarm has a small range of motion.

That is the DP I have. It looks like the limited range of motion is normal then. It's from Begi, so I know it's the shizzle.

And I agree about the manifold. The side that's visible is the thicker side... and that's the one with the indents for the runners, so it goes towards the block.

What about torque settings for the manifold bolts and DP studs?

torque settings?! how about tight! I threw my gasket on there however it decided to fit. dunno which way was out.

Sweet. Mine's leaking like a mofo

Now, if you don't think this is cool, then I can't help you! We'll see how long the check valve lasts.

Just gave props in the other thread :)

Bought a brass one yesterday. 10 bucks

HMMM, might last longer on the cold side??