Most psi DD on stock na6
 

Trying to figure out what people have seen or heard about from others. Whats the most psi ran on a stock motor coming from the earlier miata motors. Na6e I believe they are. I know 5-7lbs of psi is safe but could 10 last quite a while? maybe even moar!!!??? ha! I know its not safe to up boost over 5-7 psi without tune but what about the people who dare to do so. F*** the rules. Go hard or go home right!

Lets hear it! :idea:

In before "20g'z"

I heard from my broham that 4-5 psi is the max that the stock head gasket can take. He actually had a friend try 6psi and next thing he knew there was water coming out of the tail pipe and oil from the intake. Maybe with some rpm head studs you could push it to 7psi. If you can find a 82-89 head then you could probably push it up to 9-10 psi on a safe tune like using the power card. I would also look into the e-cool feature that one of the venders on miata.net sales. If the power card is running rich you can use fuel ratio's of e85 to lean it out, kind of like a 2 stroke. I see your running 305's that should be good for 300whp in that s kit. Are you also running 195's on a 15x8 with 0 offset?

Eh, My 15s are on 7 in. wide. fail. but I got em for a steal. When I first installed the kit it would creep up to 7 sometimes 8 psi running straight out of the downpipe. I guess with the controlled backpressure (exhaust installed) it can actually regulate correctly. I havent had any leaks or headgasket probs thus far. 25oo mile later...

thinking about blowing it up for the funk of it. need more pull... :/

As long as you keeps your AFRs around 14.7:1 you can run as much as your heart desires. Make sure to add in some timing past stock/base at 8psi or you'll start knocking.

You guys are full of shit.

Honestly, if you upgrade the head gasket to one of those paper gaskets like I did, you'll be safe to 18 psi like I am. I've been DDing 18 psi and tracking it like this with no issues on 305cc injectors. I'm also running e-cool.

wow! 2for2. I may have to check out this e-cool ish

im liking this thread already ha!

all of it

^^^here we go... Ok you threadmasters...do your job! lol

No one gives a shit about an obvious troll thread........Only idiots or trolls ask a question like that. Since you knew what was coming, you're obviously trolling.

Why are you always coming in and crapping on e-cool threads. Ban

We prefer the term "mods".

These are all complete shit responses, the stock engine is good to a certain amount of torque, which is when the rods bend. IIRC, it's roughly 225rwtq on a 1.6, 250 on a 1.8. Those figures could be off by 25 torques though. On a big turbo this could be 1psi, on a small turbo this could be 15.

The point of all this is you're not searching, or you're not searching correctly. The question has been asked numerous times.

LOL..

What im now confused about, is this...

Has curly not caught on... Or am I being trolled...right now as I type..? :D

Dann

I only read a few responses, but i figured I'd throw a real response in on the off chance anyone is listening.

with a t25 i would not go past 10-12 psi, by then you will be running out of injector. Those 305s are good for like 250whp when they are brand new flowing perfect, dont push it without a tune, it will blow up and it wont be nearly as cool as you think it will be.

(Posting from my phone.)

Id argue its both 250rwtq for both motors considering they have the same rods

cant tell me that this isnt good for the now! this all I was digging for. but no you got selfemployed bosses like 18psi who just want to rain on parades in every thread. no life... purified party pooper! lol

and for the record. the searchnoob doesnt always do the job . unless youre unemployed and have nothing else to do like the one guy I just mentioned.

Dang, this has been covered in great detail and depth.

limit your block to under 250rwtq and you'll be fine.

boost level does not matter. boost is a measurement of restriction, it doesn't really determine how much power you are making.

a tiny turbo with 15psi might make 260rwtq but only 200rwhp.

a large turbo with 15psi might make 200rwtq but 260rwhp.

torque is what pushes down your pistons, and too much is what bends your rods. The rods are weak at around 250rwtq.

/\ That.

Or you could have searched and found like 1000 threads with that same info instead of making another dumb ass one and whining like a bitch about us not putting up with your retardation.

1. Remove Headgasket.
2. Add High Temp RTV (increases compression but turns the engine into an interference engine so be careful with timing).
3. Get mad bitches.
4. ??????
5. Profit.


I always lul when it is always somehow everyone elses fault for people being lazy. Go here noob:
https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs-here-4/anybody-else-living-movie-idiocracy-60432/

lol @ Dad[s] coming in here and shitting on our little party. I never loved either of you.

How do you figure 305's will push 250whp? You'd need like 150psi of fuel in the rail, and I don't think a single bandaid'd 1.6 has ever made 250whp.

Back in the days when Emanage Blue was the hot setup, MS had not been invented yet, and Braineak had less than 1000 posts, I ran the limits of a Nissan SR20det T25. On a 1.6, with full bandaids, 3XXcc injectors are good for for 190-220whp at 15psi on a small T25 (GT2554r and smaller), with the main variable being exhaust size. The difference between 305's and 330's is negligible since the only real thing you have to tune with is fuel pressure, and even after replacing all of the rubber fuel lines at the pump, filter, and rail, I'd be hesitant to run more than 100psi. The stock ECU fights you every step of the way, but the Begi 2025 does have the fidelity to fine-tune as much as the Walbro will push. I have several threads from a few years ago that document in detail everything I did to try and tune my full bandaid setup. It was awesome and I wouldn't trade the learning experience for anything. But pn second thought, I sure as fuck would trade all that shit for one afternoon with MS and a laptop to achieve a safer tune with more power on less boost for less money. Anybody who fucks around with bandaids in today's market is dumb.

By full bandaids, I mean Begi 2025 RRFPR, Bipes, o2Clamp, Walbro 190lphHP running 2 checkvalves, RX7 AFM, base timing 16*, and of course the injectors.

As for the OP being a troll... try a fucking title search for the words "limits" "stock" and "internals".

18psi
UMad?

Samnavy
Thanks for the great info!

search noob. Getoveritalready

Blow your shit up so we can have more cheap rollers on CL. I bet someone would trade you their 240sx.

ill pass on the 240sx. had one. fun. but not as fun as the mini mi. being able to pop hard top on and off in the summer is just SICK! especially when you live near the beach that seems to attract tons of Beaches*** lol

turbo 2 seaters ftw.

i would only blow up to rebuild bigger, better, stronger, fasterrrrr

This. Any less is not good enough.

My 1.6 saw 22-24psi a few times when the WG vacuum line broke (PO had it in a sharp bend). Its amazing how hard these little things pull at that PSI..... and how much noise they can make!

It always ran TOP NOTCH.

250whp was an off the top of my head estimate to what those injectors are capable of on the risky side. I am in no way in support of the use of bandaids.

Seriously, why is there nothing in the DIY FAQ on this?

Lol, same thing happened to me once (for some reason overboost was not working at the time). It took me a few seconds of "HOLY SHIIIIT" before it started to register that something wasn't right. Pushed the memory button on the boost gauge, oops...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1316470123

i dont even run a head gasket. it helps with keeping the compression down and i run 17psi without knock.