Dange

well i was thinking about making a turbo kit my requirements are 6-8psi cheaper or same price as the greddy, with the ability to upgrade, the reason im doing DIY since i can make a comparable kit to the greddy for the same price with additions like boost controller and guages, while having the option to upgrade without having to trashcan all the pieces.

my goal is to see whats the cheapest yet most complete kit you can build and to make a write up for it to help others, starting with the absolute bare minimum to get positive preassure in the engine then go on to cover other "low cost options"

1. now im looking at the e-bay manifold downpipe for 225 bucks, i always hear they crack but thats usually on cars looing for more than 10psi it seems, so i was wondering if it would suffice for now at 8psi max untill i get the money for a begi manifold

2. i am using the downpipe mainly for parts because i want my cat as close to the engine as i can for a custom setup where i will have a electric cutout built into a test pipe
3. i noticed in a t25 flange the turbo outlet and wastegate outlet are seperate is there a way to route them seperate i kinda like that seperate wastegate soun they get
4when it comes to bypass valves do i have to get the ssqv or would something like the RFL or even a stock evo valve work? because i can get one almost free.
any suggestions that you could have

bripab007

All the folks that've bought the fleabay manifold/downpipe combo say it requires extra work just to make it fit in the car. Not worth the hassle in my opinion.

Dange

oh anyone know how much FM's manifold is going to be? i couldnt find it on their site

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

They dont even have the kit completed yet, let alone priced. I think BEGi is selling a few last FM manifolds.

thatguy

i have a pretty much complete kit for 1400$

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

the ebay manifolds are good for the price they have risen about 100% since i bought mine in january if you get it you will have to run a mitsu turbo not to bad esp if you get a 16g. the dp does need to be bent down abit to help it line up with the stock exhaust and you will not be able to get one of the bolts in the dp flange or even a stud but mine is holding up fine at 10-11 psi with no issues. bracing the turbo to the engine will help with the manifold failuer issues and WI will get everything cool with out obstrcting your radiator or makeing a mess of tubing to the intake(for about 300 dollar vs 1000 dollars for a comparable IC). the cross over intake pipe will be custom. Total cost minus some hydraulic lines that where the wrong thread andthe wrong turbo but including a F1 stage 3 clutch and all the install work done by myself and dear old dad 1900 dollars. the end result 176 rwhp and 155 lbft of torque on a mustang chassis dyno add 10-15% to get dynojet numbers. at 8-9 psi that is about 190-200 rwhp dynojet. For the cost of a greddy and a bipes. i hope this helps.