Ms2E 1.6 turbo WILL NOT idle please help
 

I am completely new to this forum so please take it easy on me,
Car is a 91 1.6 with a Homebrew turbo kit. Wideband is talking to megasquirt but cant get solid AFRs since it can't idle for more than a few seconds. Stock injectors, vtps calibrated, iat calibrated, map/baro calibrated, no vacuum or boost leaks, brand new spark plugs. It Sparks and fires, revs to about 900-1300 rpm and hangs there for a second before it sputters out, giving it more gas just keeps killing it so I assumed it was flooded so I tried pulling some fuel and it helped a very small amount, I'm afraid to keep pulling fuel if that's not really my problem. Also using closedloopidle settings because that seemed to get better results. I must be missing something obvious cause it seems like everyone and their mother is able to get these things to run.

as always, post your tune and a log.

this is what I can come up with.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b8f2f99483.png

You see the AFR never moves off full lean.... are you letting it heat up (so it reads) before cranking?

If you really are that lean, add some fuel or figure out if your warm-up setting are messed up or if you have a timing issue

it would be better if you can post the data and not just a screen shot.

heres the full datalog file sorry about that

You don't have any AFR. The data is just stuck at 25.4. Are you certain you have the wideband correctly setup? What are you using?

You don't have your throttle position calibrated. It is just stuck on 25.

Your VE table is a mess. I presume because you haven't had a chance to tune it. Same story with your spark table.

You've got a lot more work to do.

Wow that tune is horrible. I shouldn't spoon feed but try this for a base map instead. Just make sure you actually have calibrated all your sensors correctly. Do you even have a variable throttle position sensor installed?

1.6 does not come with a variable throttle position sensor, unless you added one. It is an on-off switch that does not work well.

thanks for all the help and input you guys, I will be back on the car this afternoon and will try setting up the wideband and the tps again, hopefully correctly this time, and see how that goes.

if you start the car, it idles for few seconds, and then dies out and you cant keep it alive even with working the throttle, it most usually does not get enough fuel in my opinion. the reson it idles for few seconds is maybe because of your after start enrichment which pushes the fuel level to an "acceptable" point for the first seconds after the start. after that the engine dies out because of to less fuel... i haven't been able to take a look at your tune yet.
maybe just try to enrichen the lower left 4x4 cells by step and see if you can get the car ideling. you could also change your timing to static 10 degrees BTC so it doenst uses the spark table (the others stated it's completely out of order). you will find the option under "Ignition setting -> wheel decode..." ... on the right somewhere in the studio you should be able to set static timing.

good luck
Daniel

Took 30 seconds this morning to mess with it. I put the fuel table closer to what I'd expect, turned closed loop idle off for initial start purposes, and turned off idle advance. You want to make sure you have a decently tuned idle before you turn a lot of these features on, which is where a base map really struggles, I wish they were more or less just a fuel/spark table.

Did you pull the fuse when you installed the megasquirt? I didn't pull the fuse and after pulling my hair out, renting a fuel pressure gauge, buying a fuel pressure regulator found that when the engine is cranking the fuel pump will run but after it stops cranking the fuel pump will stop running.

Jump the fuel pump in the diag box and put the base tune on again. See if that fixes it. Or pull the fuse if you haven't.

have spent another few days scratching my head on this, I went back and revisited all the install wiring for the AFR gauge and the tps and everything IS correct for sure this time. I tried the different maps and enriching the bottom cells of the afr table. I have the exact same results. another thing I caught was that my data log says I hit 10PSI even though my boost gauge shows strong vacuum when the car runs for the short while it does, im wondering if this means my MAP settings aren't correct or something?. Im also beginning to think my Glowshift AFR gauge and controller are faulty as it is giving out error codes now, so I have emailed them about that and im waiting for a response. I included another data log and my tune to check out. I truly feel like an idiot at this point and thinking of reverting to stock ECU, I wasn't expecting tuner studio and megasquirt to be so incredibly challenging to use :vash:

It seems tough at first, I think everyone here probably went thru this moment. You need to do some reading if you're not sure if the map is bad... obviously no way its making 10psi. I doubt anyone here is going to hold your hand too much though. Get all the sensors calibrated correctly before you start it.

Gotta love a challenge:

1. Your MAP is not anything in the realm of possible. Are you using the interlal map sensor? What version of megasquirt are you using? Does it have the 2bar or 4bar sensor? THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM. You are seeing 9psi of boost when the car is off and then -10psi when on. Makes no sense.
2. You don't appear to have an AFR (wideband). You are stuck at 19.1, probably just the top end of the the scale. I'm not even seeing your wideband show up under "calibrate AFR table".
3. Your closed loop idle target is 0 RPM. You are at a CLT that is below the "closed loop idle target RPM" table. You need to fill that in to cover lower temps apparently. But really you should change that from CLT to MAT under the closed loop idle settings. Use manifold intake air temp instead of coolant temp.
4. But, if I were you, I'd change to open loop for idle. Until you get this thing to start and idle, I wouldn't fight with the PID controller to get get the idle working. Just use an open loop and you'll use a fixed idle air control duty cycle at like 30-40%.
5. Your barometer isn't functioning. Not a surprise. But it is sitting down at 80kpa (your min in your general settings menu) and is applying a 109% fuel correction for some reason. Not a big deal, but you should just change your barometer correction table to 100% across the board. Most of us (including me) don't bother with barometer correction.
6. You've got a total fuel correction of 189%. Which is nuts. 140% of that is your warmup enrichment. That should be more like 110% at 60deg coolant temp. Not certain why you are so high (189%) because it doesn't really add up. Warmup enrichment + temp correction + barometer correction.. This isn't related to your AFR, your AFR isn't used until you have started up and warmed up above (90F) in your EGO settings. Just FYI, your wideband info isn't required until you are actually running and warmed up.
7. Charge your battery. You are at 11.6v. You are a few tenths away from not getting a strong enough starter response.