My daily turbo build
 

Hi guys! New to this, really need some insight.. I have a 1993 NB, 1.6.. Was told that it had low comp 9:1 internals but I'm not swearing to it.
Looking to run a ported 14b, 10psi max.. I already have a manifold and full stainless exhaust, 1.8 trans and Torsen rear. Is MegaSquirt the only way to go? And will DSM injectors work? I have access to a free set of 450's, if so..

INB4 search n00b
megasquirt isn't the only way, but its the most widely used and has the biggest support. I believe the dsm injectors are low ohm, so they may require some inline resistors IIRC, I believe transmissions are the same, meaning if its another 5 speed its no different than the one in your car. What manifold and what is the diameter of the exhaust?

There's more expensive options than MS like Xede and Hydra, but theyre really no better and nobody really tunes them. MS has the most support and constant development. There's tuners everywhere in the country, and forums to help you. As for injectors you will need ballast resistors and new pigtail electrical connectors for the injector harness.

It's an ebay mani, but I did clean the welds up, just to ensure nothing bad happens with it.. I'm running 2.5in exhaust, test pipe, no cat.. Is there another injector that would be optimal vs the DSM's? They were cheap (really paid $1 each 😍) so if I don't use them, I won't be at a significant loss... I'm not gonna be running crazy boost numbers, it's my driver car, like I said, 10psi max, and I think the 14b will be fantastic, first actual boost car build😎

oh you cleaned the welds? that's cute. let us know when you're ready to trash this garbage pile and start building a proper turbo setup :)

:giggle:



NEED MOAR PHOTOES :naughty:

Do DSM injectors even fit in a miata?

Dude, I don't want to crush your dream here, but your parts collection is not great. The mani WILL fail, the turbo is dsm so no downpipe available. The injectors are turds, and yess, megasquirt 2 or 3 only. Imo. Those injectors are not a good choice at all.

You need to read and search more before buying parts, to avoid any further mistakes. stay off youtube.

Start with wide band and ms2 or ms3, learn to tune while car is N/A, then get the manifold and down pipe that work together and build your kit around them. Don't cheap out on the important parts.

If my welds fail, I'm gonna look into another line of work... I did not ask for criticism, and I'm not a "youtube builder" either, I have a downpipe, too... I just wanted some input on injectors and MegaSquirt, as I've never ran one in any of my cars, I have heard alot of good, and my plan indeed was to run the MS for a fair amount of time before adding forced induction, everyone tells me that's the best way to go about it.

It is not just the welds. The actual material that the manifold is made out of is crap. If you can weld, you are better off buying the 2 flanges you need and some weld el's and making a log manifold to use. It will last far longer and cost about the same.

Criticism is a byproduct of asking for help. We are trying to guide you through this in the most efficient manor possible. Building once, with decent (I said decent not best) parts is key, and the least expensive option.

How did you get a downpipe to fit that turbo, and a miata, and an eBay manifold? Who built it?

Since broke and boosted came online, we have seen a ton of people start builds in all the wrong way. Yours appeared to be one of them. Sorry for the misidentification.

Yes, megasquirt 2 or 3 should be your first mod, learn to use it. 3 preferable. Then proceed with injectors. Then turbo.

Leave the raditude at home. We are here to help.

The manifold is CX racing, the downpipe may be ebay? Or home made, came from a wrecked turbo-yata that was sporting a 14b that I found at a semi-local scrapyard.. Was planning on MS2, MS3 has some features that it don't think I'll need... Wasn't trying to come off as a prick, it's Monday and everyone knows how that goes.

My downpipe looks similar. http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=271520195848&alt=web

<3

❤️❤️😎

I am sorry to say but the CXRacing manifold you bought is crap and will crack. That downpipe you found will probably not fit correctly at all. There are pictures in your intro thread of how the manifold generally crack.

Do you have AC in the car? If so then you want MS3.

If it cracks, I'll replace it, I got it for next to nothing, (by that, I mean $5) The downpipe did look to fit well on the NB it was on.. And no, she no longer has a/c, a decision that I am regretting, TN heat.

Would just like to add, I'm not against buying a better mani, that's why I signed up to this forum. Help and input.

It's a learning process. A lot of experience here on the forums from those who've tried and failed. We all learn differently, and as long as you're open to criticism, change and critique, we all mean well and don't bite too hard. Unless you're into that. :naughty:

More pictures.
More fail.
More glory reborn from the ashes.

Lolol, just don't bring blood, that smarts 😂 really tho, I'm $105 in this turbo stuff ($100 for the 14b, $5 for the mani) the dp was a gift, so I'm open to change, and it won't hurt at this point. I definitely wanna run the turbo I have.

That turbo is nothing special at all. Nothing.none. ziltch. Nada.
A 2554 or 2560 is what you want for cheap, fun and readily available parts.my 2560 makes 4 lbs. Boost by 2,200 rpm.

Don't build around a turbo, I'm pretty sure that's one of the 10 commandments on mt.net

not always....

Off subject for a sec... Does anyone following this happen to have one of those bolt-in shoulder harness bars laying around they'd like to sell? 😇

You can get one for free with a Blackbird Fabworx roll bar or even a Hard Dog roll bar these days.

Ohh I didn't know they were included with the roll bar, I plan on a Hard Dog bar in the future... Maybe. But need the harness bar 2 weeks ago, didn't know if someone had one collecting dust. Hard Dog sells that bar itsself for 150.

If you're thinking about doing a roll bar anyways, just jump on it. It's integrated on the roll bar so you will be set. You don't want to be using harnesses on stock seats anyhow.

Oh no, my seats aren't stock, and I'm rolling around with a lap belt, I have new Tanaka harnesses, though.. Seats are Mastercraft, sounds like a
boat brand? 😂 seats are nice though.

Are you talking about the stock bar that goes across? Or the aftermarket ones?

Also I am now assuming you have 4 point harnesses? If so throw them in the trash. They are more dangerous then the stock 3 point, or aftermarket 5 points. You do not want to be in an accident in it. They will fuck up your internal organs.

Or you end up as a boneless chicken wing compressed olinto the footwell area.

Mastercraft is very popular in the off road racing wold. Very nice seats. Way too big for a miata I thought.

Leave the harnesses off until you get a roll bar. I'd rather be able to duck in a rollover, rather than use my head as a roll bar. Really just get a rollbar. If I got them in stages, I would do: rollbar, seats, then harnesses.

I had considered making one, I have the access and know-how... The seats came with the car, snug.. But they do fit, I have 4 point harnesses to go in it, need it to be more "legal" looking, 3 officers have stopped me, I haven't been cited but it's a matter of time. And all 3 said they wouldn't have stopped me if I had some sort of shoulder belt.

It's not the legality that I care about. 4 point harnesses are fucking unsafe. If you are in an accident you have a good chance of submarining in them and destroying your internal organs. OG racing has a great write-up about them. If you are not using stock seat belts you need either 5 or 6 point harnesses. I highly suggest 6 point so your balls are slightly safer.

Hurr jooo Go

6 Things You Need to Consider Before Buying Harnesses - OG Racing Blog

Harnesses on the street are stupid and you deserve to die if you use them.

I mean... I don't think anyone deserves to die? Unless ur a child molester or something.. Haha