My Mazdaspeed B-Spec turbo build - what am I missing - need?
 

Hey from Australia guys. :)

Right, I've bought a rebuild engine and turbo kit for my NA. My own engine needed a re-fresh so it made sense to buy a rebuild engine with some nice turbo kit for a really good price.

Here's a few quick pics of my car:

It's a pretty rare 1989 Mazdaspeed B-Spec.

Attachment 191406

Attachment 191407


Specs:

- 1.6 Mazdaspeed - I am lead to believe there were only around 400 of these made.
- 193,100 kilometers
- Silver stone metallic paint
- Air conditioning
- Power steering
- 130 bhp

Engine:

- Full Mazdaspeed Headers and Exhaust System.
- Mazdaspeed ECU
- Mazdaspeed Plate Type LSD
- Mazdaspeed Engraved Cam Cover
- Mazdaspeed oil cap
- Mazdaspeed radiator cap
- Cold Air Induction Kit


So what I have bought:

Picture of the engine almost installed in the previous owners car (he's selling the package as he hit a sidewall during a track day and is building a 1.8 for a different racing class)
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/9981/mmot.jpg

Specs on motor-
- long nose crank, and late model pulleys.
- all new bearings, gaskets, studs, pistons, timing belt, etc, etc.
- The head was stripped down, chemically cleaned, machined and tested before being ported and cleaned up to flow more and make more power. It's fitted with heavy duty valve springs and an HKS intake cam and adjustable cam wheel.
- The bottom end was honed and recieved all new parts, with new mx5 pistons and rings, bearings, etc. After being washed in a hot tank along with the sump, crank and any other bits and pieces.

- It has a Greddy manifold and mitsubishi td04h turbo.

- A microtech computer that was dyno tuned to suit the motor in it's current set up with the turbo on, pretty ready to go.

- Unknown injectors - this came with the turbo kit he bought with the turbo kit.

- Oil lines already threaded into the engine ( sump I presume)

- Intercooler with some pipework and fittings.

(The oil cooler and remote filter kit doesn't come with it.)


My questions are:

1. Anything else that stands out that I need?

2. Clutch - my car supposedly has an uprated clutch from the previous owner but I guess it will be much easier to inspect when my own engine is out to assess the condition of it and install an uprated item if it doesn't have one?

Any ideas on a good uprated clutch?
(Car was dynod twice on 2 different dynos - 170bhp @ wheels and 190 bhp @ wheels)

3. It doesn't come with a downpipe - would it be easier to try and make one or just buy a Greddy downpipe?

(I have a full Mazdaspeed exhaust so I'm unsure if a standard Greddy downpipe will bolt up to a Mazdaspeed system)

4. Diff - It's a 1.6 diff - but the plate type Mazdaspeed version - hopefully it will hold up to the power. Any info on the power these diffs might take?

5. It's still the standard radiator - do you guys know if the standard radiator will suits my needs?

6. It has NA 1.8 brakes - pretty ok, but I guess a good uprated set will be needed?


Any more additional info will be greatly appreciated guys.

Thanks in advance. :bowrofl:

Gus.

Your 1.6 diff will not last. They blow under stock power.

Looks like a 92-93 1.6 motor with a coolant reroute and a Greddy turbo kit. You should get a wideband o2 sensor, a 1.8 diff, and remove that horrible chrome style bar.

Just buy a new clutch if you have everything out already. No point in finding it is slipping once it's installed back in the car. Build your own downpipe if you are capable of that, use the stock radiator, and why would you need to upgrade the brakes? Unless of course you plan on tracking the thing, the stock brakes with a good pad and new rotor will hold up fine.

Thanks for the reply. As for the o2 sensor - is that just an uprated version of the existing one? What does it do?

Any links for a good clutch?

And a good pad?

Everyone seems to have different opinions! Thanks again for the advice.

A wideband oxygen sensor will let you know how rich or lean your fuel mixture is. Going too lean is not a good thing. As far as a clutch, ACT makes a great clutch. The HDSS by ACT seems to be an all around good clutch for regular use. Hawk HP plus pads are very aggressive but they make a lot of brake dust.

Great, thanks. What's the o2 sensor hooked up to - some sort of gauge in the car?

It'll be hooked up to a gauge and/or your standalone ecu. Not sure what kind of inputs/datalogging microtech does.

Thanks for the advice again mate.

The most popular options for wideband O2 are: Innovate LC-1 or AEM UEGO.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3795
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-4100

If you plan on tracking it I would definitely get an aluminum radiator, the stock one will crack if you look at it the wrong way.

Pretty cool car, I always forget how many editions they made of the miata.

I have a microtech ecu =] if you go on there website and look for a pinout of there ecu it will say witch one for what ever model ecu you have.

Since you are from australia, check www.wbo2.com
Loads of stuff to read and the 2J units work better then the LC-1 that die on me all the time. But do install the controller in the interior, not under the hood.
A wideband lambda sensor is used because:
You wan't a lean mixture under light loads (no boost!!).
You wan't a rich mixture when on high boost whilst this is giving more power and it prevents detonation (or broken engines).
Lean is like 1 kg fuel and 16 kg air.
Rich is 12-12.8 kg air for each kg fuel.
The standard sensor will only point out 14.7 kg air. Or it says rich/lean but you cannot determine how much. It could be like 13.8 but it could also be 9.
A wideband tels tou the air fuel ratio from 10-20. That is a wider range then the engine can run on.
Then again: www.wbo2.com is a good australian website and those products are very good.

Excellent, thanks guys!