My turbo build. (More pics)
 

Finally got her running last night, Thanks to Eli (M2-1028 on clubroadster) for your help. Anyway, Its a mostly Begi setup, set to 7psi

Begi manifold
Begi T25/28 ball bearing oil & water cooled turbo
Begi 2.5" down pipe
Begi fmic
1.8L injectors
DIY dual feed fuel rail
Begi AFPR
DIY intercooler piping
Ebay boost controller
Autometer boost guage
DIY heat shield
Fuel pressure guage

Still need to replace fuel pump and clutch (hopefully next weekend). I think the oil return is leaking at the turbo so I need to take of that, but otherwise she runs great at 7psi except for the clutch slip. So here's the pics. Feel free to comment.

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Damn thats a good looking AFPR

Lol, thanks to u. BTW thanks for the quick shipping
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Hey, nice wheels mang, thats what I run with some azenis I cant tell if you got those too. Anyway, looks nice, but after running megasquirt for awhile I couldnt go back. also i like your choice of material for the heatshield

Thanks bro. I have the RS2's on there. I want Megasquirt also, but I have to buy plane tickets to NY for Xmas so its gonna have to wait.
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What have you done to tune it?
Did you correctly set the 0~ fuel pressure?
With the stock fuel pump and 1.8's, you're probably at the limit of your fuel at 7-8psi. I hope for now that you're running on wastegate only and haven't dialed in anything extra with the MBC.

The only way to tell for sure is to get it to a dyno so you can watch A/F's and the fuel pressure gauge during a pull. Have you tested the stock fuel pump to see what it will put out? I think you should probably dial the Begi to it's max rate of rise to get the most out of the pump as you can. I can see the adjustment needle is backed out a lot... I suspect (without doing the math) that you're running lean.

How far does that pressure gauge read? You'll need one that reads at least to 130psi if you plan to keep the 1.8injectors and turn the boost up anymore. I did a writeup on a really trick way to monitor fuel pressure from the cockpit without the expense of an electric gauge. You just use WI quick-connectors... here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....1&postcount=24
With a wideband and the ability to see your fuel pressure, you've got a basic tuning solution.

With the gap between your heat shield and engine block, you're going to slow-roast your heater-core lines... get some good heat wrap and make sure the entirety of the hose back there is shielded... but I totally dig the diamond-plate... looks very nice!

Ditch the goofy ass plastic crap covering the heater overflow line and the throttle cable. All that beautitul Begi hardware ruined by Pep-Boys ricer shit.

The rest of the setup looks good. It's very clean and I looks like you really took your time and put in the effort. It's quite similar to mine overall, except it's a slower color:)
With MS and 440's, you're ready for 15psi!

I still have to adjust fuel pressure. I will do that tomorrow as I was actually just looking over Begi's instructions on adjusting the AFPT. The MBC isnt hooked yup so im only at 7psi. My pressure guage only reads to 100 psi so I guess I will have to get another one. I will definately check out you write up about checking fuel pressure. Can you please tell me what a wideband is? The heater hose is already completely sleaved with stuff I got from wirecare.com. Your right about the red wire loom it does need to go. Future plans do call for MS with 440's but after XMAS.
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I like how you routed your charge pipe upwards, can you get me some more pics of that please. I think its a simpler then going downward.

Same here, Finally some pics of what my setup will be like. Send some more pics to cardriverx@aol.com if you can. This is how my setup is going to be, the turbo outlet faceing up, I even have the BEGI mani.

"Wideband" or WB02 measures the amount of unburned oxygen in your exhaust. There is a sensor that you install (preferably in your Downpipe) and a small control box of some sort that has the little computer brain in it.

By measuring the amount of unburned Oxygen, you can determine whether you need to add or subtract fuel to get the proper Air-to-Fuel A/F ratio you're shooting for. 14.7:1 is stoichiometric, but forced induction cars like to run a little richer than that because a little extra fuel helps keep combustion temperatures lower.

Sweet now where is the best place to get a wideband and there good and bad ones?

Thanx for all ur help.
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nice setup but isn't a miata like a girl's car? Your engine bay is cleaner than most of my dishes. Get some vids of that hoss.

WOT or diyautotune.
The AEM complete or the Innovate LC-1 with DB gauge will serve you fine. Both are the same cost from WOT.

Did someone say wideband? :)

UMM, if you say so
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Yeah im lookin for one.
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Lev, there are two popular WB02's that we usually recommend. The first is from Innovate Motorsports called the LC1. It goes for under $200 but does not include a gauge. What it does include is a really nice software package that you load onto your laptop. Since you really only need to monitor WB02 readings during tuning, driving around with a laptop on the passenger seat for an afternoon isn't that big of a deal.

The other is called the AEM... and it's controller is integrated into a standard sized gauge and it goes for about $250.

Almost all widebands include an output that you use to feed a gauge... and another output you can use to send the A/F reading wherever you need it... like into your engine computer. In a stock car, the engine computer takes a reading from the stock 02 sensor in the exhaust, but stock sensors are always NB02 (Narrowband 02). A stock cars exhaust gas will almost always be somewhere near stoichiometric and the sensor doesn't need as big a range as we do when trying to tune forced induction engines. Normally, when you buy a WB02, you can eliminate the factory NB02 sensor and use the additional output of your new WB02 to feed the engine computer (especially if it's an aftermarket ECU).

DIYAutotune, makers of Megasquirt, recommend and sell Innovate products, so most MS guys run it.

Guys who don't want to spend extra money on a gauge usually get the AEM cause it includes one.

WideOpenTuning, who posted above, is a forum contributor and can get you good rates on both types of WB's.

Lev, Splitime is selling a used LC-1, get it on the cheap

Where did you see that?
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on AIM i sent im a link to this thread

A couple of you wanted more pics of the intercooler piping, here ya go-

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The pass side needs some tewaking, It need to be a little higher.
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I noticed in the last picture you're dumping the coolant overflow tube straight down, then scrolled up and there isn't a coolant recovery tank. Any reason why?

otherwise looks good.

Begi AFPR moved in, recovery tank moved out.

Well for 1 its ugly. 2nd i was lookin to relocate it or get something nicer looking, but then I read either here or on m.net someone who did what I did and a year later never had any issues other than some drops on the floor from time to time.
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by not having a recovery/overflow tank you will constantly have to fill the radiator, and it's a good way to get air into your coolant system without.

Care to explain why.
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[QUOTE=samnavy;143837]Lev, there are two popular WB02's that we usually recommend. The first is from Innovate Motorsports called the LC1. It goes for under $200 but does not include a gauge. What it does include is a really nice software package that you load onto your laptop. Since you really only need to monitor WB02 readings during tuning, driving around with a laptop on the passenger seat for an afternoon isn't that big of a deal.

QUOTE]



Does the LC1 wideband need to be installed in the car at all times, or can you install it tune your car and then take it out to use in another car?
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^That's not uncommon. There's nothing wrong with borrowing one either instead of buying your own. It's kind of a pain in the ass to wire in just to borrow one and use it once though. You'll want some sort of piggyback or standalone in the future anyways, so it's makes sense just to buy one and make it a permanent install.... that way, anytime you make any change to your system (bigger injectors, another PSI of boost) it's all ready to go for tuning.

Also if you're going to do that, you need an extra bung on your downpipe cause the stock NB02 will still be used.

They are fairly particular to their power source and grounding connections. Ask in the MS forum for where/how guys like to run their install.

MS needs full time wideband input in order for certain things to work right. You could put it in another car but you better make the wired connections with bullet connectors or something that you can easily unplug.

When I installed my catback a few months back I had to put a plug in an O2 bung cause as you know my car only has 1 O2. Can I use that bung?

By MS I assume you mean Megasqirt section?
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Yes, MS=Megasqirt.

If you intend to replace the NB02 with a WB02 and use the WB02 to feed the engine computer, then you only need one bung cause you're replacing the stock one. If you are going to install the LC1 alongside the stocker, then you need a spare bung. It doesn't matter where in the exhaust it is (you could stick it on the muffler) as long as it's not too close to the turbo... I think 6" is generally as close as you want it.

Normally, as coolant get hot, it goes out the tube to the tank and the end is submerged in extra coolant in the tank. As the system gets cold, the coolant in the block/radiator contracts and sucks coolant back in from the tank. With no tank there, the system will suck back in air after it has purged coolant.