My Walbro450 Install
Well the last few people who installed a walbro450 did a shit job of documenting it. (No offense). Probably because it was all covered in fuel and smelly. I'm doing this outside the car with a spare fuel pump assmebly so I took a bunch of pictures.
A couple notes. - I strongly dislike Racetronix. They charge $50 for a piece of shit bulkhead connector with a shitty mounting tab and shitty everything. It sucks. I hate it. Would not use it. wouldn't even sell it. - I reused the stock insulator on the bottom, there might be one that fits a walbro450, but who knows. This one worked. - I used heatshrink everywhere that metal touched the pump. Trying to keep noise down. - Waiting on crimpers for 12 gauge wire and then I will wire in the pump with solid state relay. - Run a stock sock instead of the walbro sock. So you don't get fuel starvation. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465623810 |
450, OH MY GIRD! What is this monster for?
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My stock 1.6 :D
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What would you do differently if the Racetronix stuff was a pita?
You say 1.6L, the NA6 has the funky flange cap thing that the pump nests into right? Did you just cut that off, flare, and slip a hose over? |
If you don't have heat shrink, I've just split a piece of fuel hose and used that as a rubber insulator. Works well, and of course is fuel safe.
Install looks good, it's cleaner than mine! I didn't take pics either, but mine is a mess with twin pumps. Putting the 450 in wasn't that hard surprisingly. I used the OEM sock on mine as well. Last question, so what's the best way to run wires through now? |
I don't really know. I had a bad experience with their service. And then the way they mount the bulkhead fitting sucks. But I couldn't find anything else comparable on the market.
No idea on the flange cap. This pump assembly might be from a later NA. |
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1337997)
Last question, so what's the best way to run wires through now?
2 wires crimped into 1 12awg wire. Then into the fuel pump connector. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465664107 |
Has anyone measured the voltage loss over the short run of OEM-gauge wire that would be left if you were to plumb a 12ga or 14ga wire into the stock wire and through the stock connector? How much is actually lost through that 6" of wire? I've always questioned whether a separate bulkhead connector is actually necessary.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1338029)
Has anyone measured the voltage loss over the short run of OEM-gauge wire that would be left if you were to plumb a 12ga or 14ga wire into the stock wire and through the stock connector? How much is actually lost through that 6" of wire? I've always questioned whether a separate bulkhead connector is actually necessary.
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Well the connector on the pump is 14gauge. So you have 4 inches. There. Nothing you an do about that.
It's not a lot. Probably less than a percent. But you also have a lot of current through some small pins on the stock connector. If I were to do it again I would use the stock connector. I bought the racetronix bulkhead connector during their black friday sale on an impulse buy. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1338030)
You can calculate it with very high accuracy if you really want to know what the voltage drop will be. There are even tables for it to make it very simple. I posted a thread here measuring voltage drop a year or two ago, and the measured vs calculated voltage drops were very much in agreement.
14awg wire 14 volts DC 20amps 6" run Voltage drop is approximately 0.051v, 0.36%. Hard to justify a bulkhead connector for that :) I am going to switch to a solid-state relay plumbed from the battery, but my plan is to run the wiring through the stock connector. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1338034)
From: Voltage Drop Calculator
14awg wire 14 volts DC 20amps 6" run Voltage drop is approximately 0.05v. Hard to justify a bulkhead connector for that :) I am going to switch to a solid-state relay plumbed from the battery, but my plan is to run the wiring through the stock connector. Agreed that you don't have to do it though, just running beefy wires to the connector will get you 95% of the way there. |
I think the hella SSR and ms3 PWM pump control is going to be the new "go-to" solution for a big pump on a stock returnless system.
I'm waiting on some 12g spade connectors and then will wire in my SSR. I'll write up the connections I make. I'm going to jump the stock relay and use the stock wiring to control the SSR. |
I agree. Flow Force 640cc EV14s + solid-state relay + MS3 PWM control + DW200/300 will take you to the limits of an EFR6258 on a stock returnless setup without compromising idle quality. I will be forced to add a boost-referenced FPR to crack the 400whp barrier, but for most people, SSR+PWM+DW200 will be the easiest, least expensive fuel system setup.
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I will mostly be interested in seeing if open loop pwm settings can be shared. Would be cool if we could get a database going of what PWM=what pressure/flow. Or at least a ballpark number.
I'll have a fuel pressure sensor, but I'm also on a boost referenced FPR. |
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Dug up the fuel pump relay diagrams.
Attachment 231833 The idea is to use the stock fuel pump wiring all the way to the tank. But only as the signal for the relay. So the stock relay is ditched. and the light green wire is connected to the blue and red wire. Note: This will only work if you have jumped the AFM connector, which connects the light green wire to the ECU fuel pump output. This gives us a direct signal wire from the ECU to the fuel pump. Then that signal wire gets connected to the negative pin of the SSR. And the positive pin gets connected to 12v. Then the power pins of the SSR get the 12gauge wire from the battery, and then 12 gauge wire to the pump. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. (@Joe Perez or @Ben maybe) |
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SAV, so grab this connector with 14 gauge: Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Delphi / Packard » Pigtails » GM Delphi / Packard - 2 way MP280 Pigtail for Walbro 450 pump & larger fuses
then repin the underside of stock feedthrough, and use 12 gauge up top harness-side? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466130658 |
Pump wires go straight into the pump.
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or go straight for a 10-12 gauge set
Metri-Pack 280 - 630 [img][/img]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466131141 edit: deleted incompatible product |
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1339291)
Pump wires go straight into the pump.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466131357 |
I have the 12 gauge connector. There is no connector on the pump.
2nd option isn't fuel safe. |
Pump is hardwired, I was just thinking using the Metri-Pack 280 (10-12gauge) female pigtail to plug into the stock Walbro male pigtail (uncut), then the free end of the female pigtail to repin the stock tank side connecter to the stock feed through. 10-12 gauge up top;
should be fuel safe because it's the connector the pump came with. |
The bulkhead connector you posted.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1339300)
The bulkhead connector you posted.
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I did the same.
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Sorry dude, didn't mean to mud up your thread.
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No worries. Good links to those parts.
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This is cheaper, what I plan on doing...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466190576 Go back to the conduit section at home depot, grab a short 1/2npt to 1/2npt coupler and cut it in half. Weld the new bungs onto the pump plate, then screw these in. That's an 1/8NPT plug drilled out to 10-32 inside a 1/4npt nylon reducer bushing. Solder FP leads into the brass, thread them down into the reducing bushing. Only real big bummer is it's gotta be done with the leads fished through the FP mounting plate, or you'd have to split the voltage and ground wires somewhere inside the tank... With the 10-32 hole soldered completely shut there's no way fuel would wick out... |
Cheaper if you already have a welder :(
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You could try and find a 1/4NPT locknut, then coat the whole mess in epoxy. I couldn't find them in home depot or menards, probably gonna have to be an online thing.
https://www.pressureparts.com/8-705-042-0 |
Stupid question, but is there an easy way to get from the battery to the gas tank? Pre drilled holes or anything? For wiring.
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The filler neck hole?
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Haven't looked over there. Would have to go across the trunk, which isn't my favorite.
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Here is what I ended up with for wiring so far. Had to go to dinner so didn't get the pumps swapped.
Grommet into the tank area. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466308126 12awg harness wrapped in sheathing. Spade terminals for the relay, ring terminals for the battery. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466308126 Hose clamps holding on the wiring. Might switch to zip ties if I need those hose clamps back at some point. I need some of the zip ties that you can stick in the holes. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466308126 Ground and F/P wire taken from the stock connector. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466308126 And here it is hooked up for testing with the stock pump. There is about a 1/16 of an inch of dirt covering the entire tank. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466308126 |
It works
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Holy shit this thing is loud. Sounds like someone turned the faucet on under the hood
Not overkill at all |
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