Nb turbo build
 

Been building this lately. All fab is done parts are off to be powder coated.

specs are 2001 type rs bp6d engine. Running a megasquirt pnp for an earlier 99-00 with a patch loom adapter (got it so cheap $300) no vvt control yet.

going to be using pink sti injectors for fueling.

hope to make 150-175kw
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How is your radiator mounted? Is there still room for a fan?

Factory bottom mounts I am making up a cover for the top that hides the intercooler and radiator as well as mounting it. And yes factory fans still fit

Can you add a picture looking straight down on the radiator? I'm intrigued by this setup, I like the short boost tubing simplicity. Doing any ducting behind bumper and hood louvers?

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It’s all up and running now started it on Saturday just gone really happy with it so far

Been getting as much time as I can tuning this beast. Really impressed with the mspnp. Have dabbled with megasquirt before but that was an old ms1 custom everything on a Holden Gemini with a turbo Isuzu piazza 4ZC1 engine had heaps of issues with noise etc.

This project has been a breeze to get running and tune so far. Spent some time today on cranking starting and idle control only in open loop happy with my results cranks starts and tapers down to 900rpm (hot) idle really nice.

my after start enrichments are really low because it was fouling spark plugs after starting maybe because of the 565cc injectors not sure anyway it’s running awesome!!

New gen MS is awesome!

How is airflow/intake temps with that IC setup? Looks extremely tidy and cool

I’m really happy with the way it looks few bits to tidy up over my Christmas break. Intercooler/radiator cover, install and wire red Audi coils, tidy up ecu loom and wire up gauges in the cabin.

intake temps are between 5-8’C above ambient when moving. Ambient has been 25-27’C lately it sits around 30-35’C actually stays at its lowest when I’m hard on boost. It defiantly gets heat soaked when idling can see as much as 45’C it comes down quickly once car starts moving.

Well I broke it😂 was so happy on 10psi had the tune awesome only cruze and decell were bit lean, in boost was perfect but I decided for more boost 15psi only got maybe 50km. Knew I shouldn’t but hey🤷‍♂️ Bent number 2 conrod😂 after a good boost against another car (I won just) I notice a big end noise I limped it home was only about 4km. Has low compression on number 2.

Probably not big end, more likely the bent rod touching the side of the bore around BDC.

What is your next step, throw some rods in, or source a secondhand engine?

Unfortunate, but there’s only one way up from here! More boost!!!!:D

Believe it’s a bent rod I measured piston height down the spark plug hole number 2 is 2.77mm lower at TDC than the other 3. I have a FWD BP block from a Mazda 323 I intended on building I may just throw that in to keep it driving been summer in NZ.

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Holden Gemini's rods, pictured Jan. 12th, 2022

Haha that’s pretty funny I'm real keen to pull the block down and see the damage but I’m back at work now and have other stuff on the go so its going to be a week or two before I get to it.

Ok so stuff I had on this weekend got postponed until next weekend. So I went and got the car that has the BP engine I intended on building as in forging etc. it’s a JDM spec Mazda Astina 323 GT.

It was at my Dads farm about hour and a half away so was a mission to get it home. I’ve stripped the engine down because odometer in the car was little over 300000. I believe it’s been rebuilt at some stage because there’s a heap of assembly engravings that don’t look factory.

Bearings look great as well as the crank. Block is standard bore with no lip and can clearly still see the hone pattern.

My question is, are these blocks identical? As in everything will bolt on no holes to drill and tap etc . If so I can drop it in at an engine shop this week to check it over and clean it up. Otherwise I have to wait until after I’ve pulled my engine which could be week or two be great if short block was ready to go. Just trying to speed it up got withdrawals already😂

The pistons are in great shape also using them should bring my compression to 9:1 rather than the 10.5:1 my type RS engine was so much more turbo friendly.

I have been swapping 1.6 L Miata vs 323 GT blocks back and forth many times. They all have the same mounting holes, you just have to clean up the threads of the ones that are not used because they are full of dirt and rust. The 1.8 L Miata look just the same as the 1.6 L Miata from the side, except for length of course. So you should have no trouble with all the mounting points on the block itself.
The pistons will be lower compression than the Miata, but the connecting rods are probably stronger, They certainly are in the 1.6 L 323 GT.

The heads and the oil pans are different. You have to use the "car correct" oil pan, oil pickup, etc. And the 2001 and up bolts the windage tray to the main bearing caps, while earlier models do not. Of course, you can simply not bolt it in place, that worked on all the earlier models.

You might be able to use the 323 head, but there could be some fitment issues with the intake manifold, and with the valve timing sensor, which moved around a lot over the years. You can certainly swap the Miata head onto the 323 block. On the 1.6 L you can use a Miata intake on the 323 GT, but to use the 323 intake you have to use the 323 valve cover.

Will be using all components from Mx5 just the block only from the 323. Was just wondering if there was anything that needed to be drilled or modified before I take it to have bores checked and the block cleaned up.

I’ll take heaps of photos swapping bits over for reference.

Had bottom end looked at and all cleaned up. Engine shop cut me a really nice deal 24hr turn round👍 Need to order all the bits now and get the engine out if the car not going to happen this weekend so much on! squeezing all my pockets of time I have on getting it boosting again!
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Sourcing parts locally of good quality seems to be an issue. Have managed to sort acl race bearings eventually not cheap! Blaming covid for the cost😂 gaskets and seals tho wanted genuine can’t justify the cost and the wait time (6 weeks) so I’ve gone after market will be here this week under half cost of genuine.

Have you tried Amayama or Partsouk?

I’m in Australia and bought parts from all sorts of places for my engine build.

Lots of people seem to have poor results with non genuine seals.