Need alot of help with BEGI S install :(
 

Hi,
I did not know what i was getting my self into when i started the installation by my self but the 3 page instruction set that came with the BEGI S kit was very misleading :( any way i have some questions that i need answered before i can get the miata back on the road

1 - After i install the kit do i have to get any kind of tunning done? or can i just drive the car? There are some knobs and stuff on the Silver Fuel saucer looking thing from BEGI what are the settings suppose to be for that?

2 - i drilled the whole but i cant get the TAP in there. Also the info in the forums and the instructions are very confusing. I tapped using a 31/64" drill bit (i could not find a 37/64") and now what fitting do i put in there? the BEGI instructions show the BIGger TAP the 1/2" but they tell you to use the 3/8" ? which one is it? and how do i get it in there?

3 - hooking up the down pipe with the turbo there is a little gap between the two on one of the sides it is big enough so i can see through it but the nuts are tight all the way is there a gasket or something that is suppose to go in there?

4 - also will this setup make the turbo wooooshh sound or do i need to buy a blowoff valve? and if i do have to buy it where do i hook it up and where do i get one from?


I will try to post some pics of the mess i have made :)

thanks for all the help you guys can give me i really do appriciate it and may be one day after this install is done i can help some one else :)

umm unless it has a bov NO it will not make the whoosh sound you speak of and yes most ppl on here run cheap ebay ones that work pretty good and it gets hooked up as close to the throttle body as possible

Ok newb you should be able to drive it out of the box just fine (you might need to retard the timming). Refer to Braineacks Faq for tunning a fpr setup. Nextly if you drilled the hole in the pan to small then of course there tap wont work and if there tap doesn't work then you will need another tap and fitting. So go to the local fastenal or whatever and buy a drill bit of the right size tap the pan and then install there fitting. And enjoy the world of boost. If you here a turkey gobel from the compressor this would be surge and to fix it you can get a bov eventualy. The instructions leave abit of lattitude i gues, but if you have anymore questions all the answers are already on this site.

Don't forget to call BEGi, they are super nice, they know the kit inside and out and will stay on the phone as long as you need them. It's not all that hard, just a little intimidating the first time through... it will all be worth it.

Mark

1. Do you need to tune?

Yes, but it's pretty easy to do. Call BEGi if you don't understand this part.

2 - i drilled the whole but i cant get the TAP in there. Also the info in the forums and the instructions are very confusing. I tapped using a 31/64" drill bit (i could not find a 37/64") and now what fitting do i put in there? the BEGI instructions show the BIGger TAP the 1/2" but they tell you to use the 3/8" ? which one is it? and how do i get it in there?


First things first, you won't be able to get the tap in without the right size pilot hole to begin with. On the tap it should show what size drill you need for the pilot hole, that is the size bit that you use.


3 - There is a gap between the turbo and the downpipe.


There should be no gap between the turbo and the downpipe.

It sounds like you are confusing a 3/8"-x tap with the 3/8npt tap that is used for the oil pan. The 3/8npt is a pipe thread and the 3/8 is in reference to an inner diameter, so the actual hole that will be in your oil pan is much larger than 3/8".

Somehow I doubt the kit uses a 3/8" NPT drain... my guess would be 1/2" or 5/8"

the kit does use a 3/8" NPT. i have the instructions right next to me :)

Make sure you follow the proper order when you tighten down the nuts. They all should be loosely attached before you tighten anything down, then tighten DP to Turbo first, DP to cat second, then Turbo to manifold last.

- hooking up the down pipe with the turbo there is a little gap between the two on one of the sides it is big enough so i can see through it but the nuts are tight all the way is there a gasket or something that is suppose to go in there?

i'm pretty sure the studs are not symetrical, the threads are longer on one side. make sure you follow the instuctions on their orientation. no, no gasket.

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/8412/dsc6219jt7.jpg

here is the picture of some diffrent kind of taps i got which one goes to the oil drain hole i created? also i cant find the 37/64" drill any where :( checked sears, home depot, lowes, pep boys , autozone no one has anythign bigger then 31/64" and that is what i got. where did you guys gets yours from?

Lowes has bits bigger than that I know. You definately need the correct size to tap it.

your sig makes NO sense whatsoever, i mean if we translate all the numbers from binary to decimal then it reads "There are only 2 kind of people in the world 1 who read in binary and 2 who don't"

The flare fitting on the left looks like oil feed into the turbo.

90* assembly looks like oil feed, it has the press on fitting for the high temp silicone feed line.

Brass hose barb should be used in the pan.

You can probably get one from Mcmaster-Carr. I've got a 37/64" bit and appropriate tap that came with my BEGi kit that your welcome to borrow. PM me if you need it.

I'm glad someone else noticed that.

C

fixed the SIG :) what i was going for was there are 2 kind of peope in the world and 1st (kind) who undersatand binary and 2nd (kind) who don't

hopefully it makes more sense now :)

and sv650 ck i would appriciate the drill and the tap very much are you in the VA area?

there we go lol

Florida.

Fastenal bud
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0316239
http://www.fastenal.com/web/location...&zip=&state=VA
I hope this helps they carry alot of shit better than lowes etc. And mostly supply facotry maintenace shops etc. But there prices are good and quality is great. You can find most anything there.

1: Tuning should only require one step. Call Begi. What they will tell you is that you need to tune your ~0 vaccum fuel pressure. Without a fuel pressure gauge, this becomes very difficult. If you've got one, the instructions are here: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...s_manuals.html The "flying saucer thing" is your Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR). It's purpose is to raise fuel pressure in the rail. When you add more air to the engine with the turbocharger, you need to add an equal amount of more fuel to match. The stock engine computer can't do this for you electronically by holding the injectors open longer (injector pulse length), so you need to do it mechanically. The AFPR has a boost line hooked up to it... when it senses boost, it clamps down on the fuel return line to the fuel tank. The fuel pump continues to pump fuel, but if the excess can't get back to the tank, FUEL PRESSURE builds up in the fuel rail. If you keep the same injector pulse width(with the stock ECU), and the same size fuel injectors, the only way to increase fuel is to increase fuel pressure.

2: You can't expect a tap to fit in a hole that's too small for it. Get the right sized tap.

3: Again, there is a SPECIFIC ORDER TO TIGHTEN THE NUTS for the entire exhaust system... and they're on the same page as above. Get everything nutted down finger tight... and then hit them with the wrench in the right order.

4: A BOV serves a specific purpose within a turbo system. The purpose is not to go whoosh. When you're running in boost, and lift off the gas, the throttle plate in the throttle body closes... and all the boost that the turbo is making slams up against it and backs up in the pipe... that pressure backup makes it's way backwards into the turbo and stalls it. Then when you get back on the gas, it has to spin all the way back up from essentially zero. A BOV releases all that boost pressure when you lift off the throttle so the turbo keeps most of it's speed (reducing the time it takes to get back into boost).

However, as soon as any air makes it's way past the MAF, the ECU has already calculated fuel for it... so when you blow a bunch of it out into space, the ECU has a fit and you run instantly rich. Some guys (myself) have really difficult times getting the car to run properly running a Vent-To-Atmosphere (VTA) BOV... and instead run the system RECIRCULATED, and attach a hose to the BOV and run all the air back into the intake between the MAF and the turbo.

The Begi S system doesn't run enough boost stock to warrant a BOV. I wouldn't worry about one now unless you've got a hard-on for the whoosh. But it is necessary if you plan on more boost in the future.