Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1393633)
On that car, to me the powerband is perfect, and it felt fantastic. I likely wouldn't move anything around at all. It's great for street, track, you name it.
However, if I didn't have a built engine, and wasn't planning to make over 300, I'd probably get me the even smaller EFR and enjoy even more lowend thrust and snappier response (if that's even possible, lol, the 6258 already shines at both those things.....we shall see of course). Seems like the perfect combination. Definitely a lot on the street. I could see wanting a smaller turbo if you put lots of miles on it! Is your car really 2550 pounds as the dyno sheet says? |
That was godons car that I tuned. (EO2K)
An nb is 2350+200 delta (what I weigh). You have to plug in the full weight for VD to calculate accurately |
Ah! That makes sense. Will look up his build!
What are people doing for boost control on the internal gate EFR...I read about lots of difficulties there? I was looking at the 2 port Turbo Smart, but I saw this Evasive Motorsports PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: BorgWarner EFR Dual Port Internal-WG actuator Any thoughts? Jamie |
The EFR5951 looks promising for the future, I'd expect TSE kits to sell like hawt cakes when packaged together. I'm very interested... VERY very interested to see what this new baby trubo can do. Gives me all the more reason to ditch this 2860 setup :likecat:
:skid: |
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393903)
What are people doing for boost control on the internal gate EFR...I read about lots of difficulties there?
|
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393903)
Ah! That makes sense. Will look up his build!
What are people doing for boost control on the internal gate EFR...I read about lots of difficulties there? I was looking at the 2 port Turbo Smart, but I saw this Evasive Motorsports PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: BorgWarner EFR Dual Port Internal-WG actuator Any thoughts? Jamie What difficulties? Mines been running fine for a couple years. |
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393598)
Not trying to frustrate you, rather trying to sort out which way to point my horsepower hungry son....Who is too inexperienced to realize there is more to a build than a big horsepower number
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1393633)
On that car, to me the powerband is perfect, and it felt fantastic. I likely wouldn't move anything around at all. It's great for street, track, you name it.
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393859)
If you look at 18PSI's build and its boost table, you can see that he is all the way down to 16 or 17 psi at the HP peak.
IIRC that is 8 pounds down from 99MX5s. There is a fair bit more left on tap and the bottom end/mid range would be a different level.
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393859)
More boost 18PSI!!
Let her rip! You know you want to! :)
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1393898)
That was godons car that I tuned. (EO2K)
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393903)
Ah! That makes sense. Will look up his build!
Originally Posted by nbfather
(Post 1393903)
What are people doing for boost control on the internal gate EFR...I read about lots of difficulties there?
Ok, I feel I need to address something real quick that I'm pretty sure no one has mentioned yet. Jamie, I don't know you or your son, and as such I say this with all the respect in the world, but I think you are overlooking something serious here: all hyperbole aside, a 300+HP Miata is a god damn death machine in the wrong hands. Have you driven a 300HP Miata? How about 250HP? Or even 200HP? I would strongly encourage you to do so before you get too far into this. This is not a Corvette, or a new Mustang, or a Camero, It is a radically different experience. I come from a long line of overpowered rear wheel drive V8 cars so I have had more than a decade of driving experience with tail happy beasts and my car is seriously intimidating. I've got enough fuel that I could safely run ALLOFIT on CA piss 91 with the EFR 6258 but I have to tell you, I have no desire to find out what the limits of the fuel system are, because I've reached the limits of my skill. On street tires, traction is merely the fever dream of a madman in 1st and 2nd if you are not paying attention, and at any time I can put my foot in the throttle in 3rd and 4th and the tires sublimate directly from solid to vapor state before I can even think about it. While that sounds like fun, its seriously dangerous as fuck. Driving my car in anger has a tendency to convert that rage directly into a healthy respect or even fear. Like I said, I don't know you or your son, and I don't know his skill level or driving history, but I would not, under any circumstances put say, a 20 year old kid behind the wheel of my car. I would not expect them or the car to last long. |
Take a Corvette C6 Z06, put it on a 245mm wide tire, and take 16" out of the wheelbase. That's what you are building when you put a 300whp Miata together.
|
And his car has the 3.6FD and NT01's
With a 4.30 it would likely spin 5th lol |
^^ Truth.
Someone with more smarts than me should take the coefficient of friction for an NB with a hard top, and calculate the maximum speed attainable with 300hp, 6 speed and 3.63 :giggle: Maybe I can go do the Texas Mile, or visit Bonneville. Hah! 2017 World of Speed is in September this year, I can maybe have the car working by then. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1394072)
^^ Truth.
Someone with more smarts than me should take the coefficient of friction for an NB with a hard top, and calculate the maximum speed attainable with 300hp, 6 speed and 3.63 :giggle: Maybe I can go do the Texas Mile, or visit Bonneville. Hah! 2017 World of Speed is in September this year, I can maybe have the car working by then. CD is 0.36 with soft top, so guessed 0.35. |
Brb, need new speedo...
|
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1394077)
Brb, need new speedo...
Get a GPS speedo. At those speeds, I bet the tires expand a bit, making a regular one read low. :P |
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1394078)
Just ran the gearing numbers. With a 6 speed and 3.636 rear, you would need to spin the engine at 8400rpm.
|
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1394078)
Get a GPS speedo. At those speeds, I bet the tires expand a bit, making a regular one read low. :P
|
The EFR internal gate gave me fits too. My problem ended up being a combo of needing to clock the CHARA a little and also needing to bend the wastegate mount in order to get it to move freely through the whole range. I didnt feel like having to fight with it again to nudge and tickle it to be just so for my next setup and the EWG only IRL 7163s came about at just the right time so I went that way. I'm sure TSE checks each one for alignment before it goes out the door on their kits.
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1394085)
Oddly enough, tire deflection ends up making the tire shorter, at least in the 140-150mph neighborhood. Maybe 180+ would change that, but the data I have says you need about 6% more RPM than you think you do to reach a gear-calculated speed.
|
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1394101)
I'm sure TSE checks each one for alignment before it goes out the door on their kits.
|
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1394103)
Actually, that makes sense thinking about it. The amount of torque being applied just to over come the drag probably rotates the rim ahead of the outside edge of the tire. Something like a wrinckle wall drag tire.
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1394106)
I don't, yet. I was thinking about it last week after the chat in Aidan's thread. I would have to add something to the cost of each kit due to the time it would take, but I'll probably start doing it.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:24 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands