New turbo Miata for the forum
 

Hey everyone, I just finished turbo'ing my car last Thursday and I thought I'd share some pictures/info. It's a 1990 1.6 with an AiResearch T3 (supposedly from a Mercedes 300D), DSM 450cc injectors, ETD Racing tubular manifold, Mitsubishi Starion intercooler, Megasquirt ECU tuned by my friend Gavin. The stock wastegate is set at 11psi, so that's what I'm running!

http://gallery.me.com/gavinwilliams/...G_0045/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/gavinwilliams/...G_0002/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/gavinwilliams/...G_0050/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/gavinwilliams/...G_0007/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/gavinwilliams/...G_0006/web.jpg

Currently the wastegate is just dumping into the engine bay... smells great when you hit full boost!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ata/turbo2.jpg

If you look closely at the bottom of the turbo you can read "I AM THE STIG" :)

Thats an awesome ingraving on the turbo.

Looks clean, I like the color

outgrave

mmmmmm. 210* intake temps FTL!


awesome wastegate outlet :rofl:

Actually, they're between 100-110 usually. The intake air temp sensor could be in the airstream more, if that's what you mean. What do you mean?

i mean sourcing intake air from the radiator isn't ideal.

Did you need to make relief cuts in bottom of the hood for the IC piping?
What size IC piping?
What radiator?
What is the huge nasty mess of wires on the passeger firewall?
Need pics of IC and how the inlet/outlets face.

I love the electrical tape for the boost gauge tube (very airtight!).
And you're gonna melt that tube running it across the top of the motor like that.

Nice job- but I gotta have some kind of explanation on the that wg port. You say you're running it that way? :confused:

You all fail
 

Better place for the intake than near the brake MC... By far.

He had a pro welder patch a hole that used to bridge the two exhaust outlet ports on the turbine housing. Yes he's running it like that ATM and it's awesome.

That's silicone tape, which bonds to its self. The tube is nylon and intended for it's application.

Yes, we have to re-wrap some wiring.

We just got it running and are not about to run a 24 hour race with it!

^ why the hell did you unbridge it? Do you want to melt everything in its vicinity?

So there's a dump pipe that bolts to the four bolt port in the photo? I've seen these merc t3s all over eBay (they're a deal too) but had no idea how that iwg worked. If a dump does bolt to that- it's got to be superior to the older design like I have- where the flapper dumps in the IWG/dp chamber and bounces right back at the turbine wheel.

needs a small elbow pointing up through a hole in the hood.

with a spark plug in it.

FLAMING BOOOOOST

Something like this but out of the fender.

http://picasaweb.google.com/slibus/P...28072991433810

not certain he can bolt a mustang cobra to the fender...

Originally, the plate that you see there with the four bolts was just a block off plate, and there was a passage (now welded) which dumped this exhaust just behind the turbine, as was mentioned. So, we welded the passage and drilled that whole in the plate, where I will eventually add a dump pipe.

I like the spark plug idea, would even be more Eco-friendly, although I don't think the cop would believe you.

So yes, these mercedes 42/48s are very cool. Even more impressive is how smoothly the exhaust enters the wastegate- better than any external I've seen. But you need to weld cast iron if you want a proper screamer pipe like this.

Gotta move that thing... there's tons of ideas on this site as to where the MC/Radiator are not your only options.

Another note.. you can put your breather right off the valve there... no sense in running it to the front.

We fail?!

Do you understand how a hairdryer works? Those things girls (maybe you) dry your hair with once exiting the shower....an element is heated using electricity, then a fan blows air over the element and thus hot air can be utilized to dry your hair with. Well, same concept with your radiator...you have both an intercooler and radiator heating as your heating element and the fans are blowing the hot air right where you are sourcing your air. Is the area by the master better? it's possible (but i didn't suggest it)...is your location? doubtful IMHO.

Your pro welder welds as good as I do....like a 5 year old learning how to draw with crayons.

Did you not think of possibly extending a tube next to your DP, or simply leaving leaving the outlet connected to the main DP? Why would you think +1400*F exhaust dumping onto heater hoses would be a better idea?

Edit: I think i understand that you welded the turbine housing so you can run a dump....am i correct?

You oil return drain is also iffy at best. I'll wait for your "burning oil, help" post.

I see an LC-1 over on the passenger side of the engine bay....where does the wbo2 sensor plug into the exhaust?

again, what is that random relay box on the firewall behind the IM?

Looks engraved to me?

Home depot plumbing couplers are about the worst Idea I've ever seen used as IC couplers, they are not intended to handle any pressure whatsoever.

Firstly, the location of the intake works fine. My radiator keeps things really damn cool and the fans have NEVER turned on, not even once. My intake temperatures (on a 90 degree day) are between 100-110.

You can't see the pro welder welds, unless you're using an x-ray filter on my image to look into my turbo. The exhaust was welded in a backyard using a welder with no gas by someone who just started welding this year.

The wastegate exhaust is going to be coming out of a dump pipe soon. The heat shields we installed are doing the job GREAT so far but they're still only temporary.

What exactly is wrong with my oil drain? I don't smell burning oil at any time.

The "random" relay box is a very useful relay board used for MegaSquirt to make hooking up sensors and everything else really easy. And the LC-1 is there because I couldn't get it programmed correctly so I have two wideband controllers in the car. The LC-1 isn't hooked up right now.