Newb DIY tomorrow.... oh man...
 

Hey all,

Been lurking for a little while. Found a kit locally from a pretty good guy it seems. For reference: Mazda Miata Turbo Parts

Car: 1990
Mods: Just some diy stuff so far... but me has plans

SOOO. I'm going to buy the kit tomorrow. It looks as though everything is there. However, I formerly owned a fully built 05 N/A subaru and have not expanded my knowledge to the turbo world yet. Yes, I searched (been a forum addict since I bought my subaru a while back). And yes, I found a lot of answers. However, i'm about to dish out a good chunk of money, so I'd like to make sure everything goes perfect (that's impossible with car tuning, isn't it?? Oh well).

So take a look at the list on the listing I'm buying. Does it look complete?

I will be buying 1.8 injectors. I guess I'm going to have to buy the recalibration kit for the vortech fmu. After those things, I want to hear your opinions on how complete this is.

I'm getting extremely nervous, just because this is my first turbo project. To fill you in on my goal, I want to run 6 pounds and stay conservative.


Suggestions, comments, criticisms... anything to help. Just not flaming; if I wanted that, I'd talk to the Suby guys (if you've spent time on those forums, you'd understand..).


Thanks all
Kev

PS: Pics of my project and car tomorrow while in progress!

Do et

But you should invest in a 02 clamp, wide band, ect.
Im sure their is more out there to be done but i haven't thought of it.

Well, the money is right, but here's what I don't like:

-Manifold looks like it may be one of those cheap e-bay units
-Not specific about parts, probably chinese e-bay parts

$200 seems like it's too good to be true, I'd run over and have a look if it's local, ask about the condition of all the parts, especially the turbo.

Also with two intercoolers, there is no mention of charge piping. Gotta have that. I'd say go for it though. I agree with Basmachine, get the WB. I'd install that before anything else.
--Alex

looks like an ebay manifold to me...

If your going for cheap you can have an exhaust shop make you a manifold or you can buy a DIY Mani. But charge piping is indeed a must. Also you should check all the electronics or have someone who is familiar with the equipment check it. I'd rather have a burnt out fmu instead of a blown engine.

Yea, didn't see the pics the first time. Does look like an eBay manifold. Gunna have to plan its replacement / repair when you put it in. I'd try to get that copy of Maximum Boost thrown it too. That's a gotta have for DIY.
--Alex

ok he does have the ic piping

I am getting the max boost :)

I am going to have this done by the end of the day.

Going to buy right now, will post up in an hour when I get back!

One day turbo build ftw!

Kev

Good luck but dont hammer it first thing lol.

In for the above daily status updates.:giggle: If you can start from scratch and finish within 24 hours, I'll GIVE you a set of 1.8 injectors. Just pay $5.00 for shipping. We need a build thread with a start time and finish time, running on your 1.6 injectors. Video of you driving would be nice.

OK first question... and yep, searched this too.

I'm trying to install the vortec fmu. It has a line tap going into the bottom of the unit, a tap on the side, and a vac on top.

Question is, what goes where? There are two fuel lines, top and bottom. Which one is which?

I'm about to delete A/C and tap my oil pan. Any advice?

Last (for now), the vortec is set for 12:1. I am running stock injectors for now, ordered 1.8 injectors and am searching for the 8:1 diaphram for the fmu. Is the 12:1 ok to run for a little while at a max of 8 lbs?

Kev

At 8 psi, the 12:1 fmu will try to add 96psi to your stock fuel pressure ~45 psi. Since you're probably still on the stock fuel pump, you'll only get ~80 psi, if your pump is working great. 8lbs sounds like it might be a bit of a stretch with 1.8 injectors, but someone smarter than me will chime in, I'm sure.

On the fuel rail, the line feeding off of the stock FPR (at the back of the fuel rail) is the return line. You will want to install the FMU into that line.

wow, people still use bandaids? i thought everyone would start with MS by now.

Yes this thread will be ftw if this works.

so far i'm at FTL levels.

Stupid f#@%ing weather has been horrendous. I got all the way to...

removing A/C. That's it.

I need opinions on tapping the oil pan, I haven't searched yet though so I'm going to do so right now.

I've read almost the whole max boost book though, that's the upside of the crappy weather.

Kevin

PS: I don't have a garage btw. And the shop I usually go to and work on my car in won't let me do the install there for liability reasons (understandable).

I didn't remove my A/C that was unessassary. I jacked the car up and actually need the A/c to gauge how low I needed to drill.

You need to read Flying miatas instructions, That will tell everything.

Make sure you wrap tape around the end of the drill bit so you don't drill to far.

Thanks for the post!

I'm going to tap the pan when the weather clears up. Did my research, found my answers.

This o2 clamp you all speak of... wha?

Kev

In to see how you will get either of those inter coolers to work, or most of the other parts for that matter.

Well as far as injectors. Your 1.6L should be good for 7 psi. But the question is, what is the ratio of the disk in the FMU? It may not be. Mine that came with the stock greddy kit won't supply enough pressure to go over 5psi.

To really tune safely you need a Wideband {NOT NARROW BAND!!!!}Sensor and gauge.

But I have uped mine without the guage. But I also have a adjustable fpr.

Anyway if the car acts like it doesn't want to excellerate. you are probably lean. If you hear nock or studder LET OUT! OF THE THROTTLE!.

And as far as the 1.8L injectors. They would probably support the 6 psi without changing the disk. (Saying it is the stock greddy disk).

NOW the conscern is, what are you doing for timing? Just run 5psi if you don't have a MSD or a BIPES. I 'd start at 8 degrees of timing base, and work my way to ten if possible.

If you have a msd or bipes you can run your timing at 14, for 5 psi..

But if you set your timing at 8 degrees you should be good for 6 psi anyway.

You really need a wideband O2 to know for sure though.

The O2 clamp is a device that stops the computer from pulling gas durring the transition to boost.

Some cars have a problem with it. some cars don't. You will know if this happens. The lean condition and studder will happen.

Looking at your buy list.. you might want to run NON intercooled just to get running.

I work for Volvo., ive seen,held, inspected and thought CAN THIS INTERCOOLER work on my miata? I honestly do not think so. the IN and OUT will be exactly where frame rails are on the MIATA, its larger than the miata radiator too. The other IC included looks like a headache to plumb up.

Research a greddy kit, and replicate their attack for running non intercooled. LOW boost application.

Seems to be your fastest way on the road.

GOODLUCK

in for impending hilarity

you may not need to buy a vortech recalibration kit if you get clever with a $5 bleeder valve. it's pretty straightforward, but I will make a thread on how I did mine if there is enough interest.

OK let's see... I'd like to cash in on Stein's promise... I believe you said you'd send me the injectors if I pay shipping... oh if I finish the build in less than 24 hours. Didn't read tha....

OH WAIT. I finished :) Up and running. Took pictures all night. Yep, stayed up all night, and to be completely honest, Stein's offer was a huge motivator.

You all were a HUGE help, both in tech support and "fan" support.

I ran into a few problems, I can't go into detail right now though, I'm going to have my exhaust made soon (open DP ftw! but wayyyy too loud).

First problem was manifold install. REALLY snug, had an extremely hard time getting it on.

Second was getting the stock exhaust cut out of the way (I have a custom one piece exhaust). I was in my DIRT parking lot with my car on tiny ramps, yet still found a way to get my recip saw under there. After separating from the mid pipe, I had to unbolt the stock "downpipe" brackets that are connected to the trans case. Tough stuff for a 1990, prob never been done on this car.

Last big problem was the DP fitament. It.. didn't fit. It was off on the bolt hole locations so I had to ghetto rig it for now until around 9 this morning, when I can start making it work at the shop.

Other than that, everything is up and running! 6 lbs is what I'm boosting.


Thanks!
Kev

PS: I will be posting pics after the exhaust is made, my phone is messing up

Kevin

Post those pics and PM me your address. Anyone that can knock it out in a dirt parking lot in a day gets my respect. Hell, I'll cover the shipping, too.

Hey all, sorry about the long wait for update. I've been spending every waking minute either working on my car or working at work.

Short story: After 15 hours, I finished, all said and done. After fitting everything up and getting the turbo spooling, I went and made the ic piping at a friend's exhaust shop. Made the piping, hooked up the recirc line, hooked up the boost gauge, and finished all the vac lines.

Test drive revealed something real fun. I'm boosting 10 lbs. problematic when you figure I'm running stock injectors. so I'm trying not to romp on it, but it's sooo freakin' fun. Stein, I love you man. I'm PM'ing you my address in a sec.

4 problems have arisen:

1) My exhaust manifold, block side, is leaking. The gasket is leaking, so I have to do that tomorrow unfortunately. Pain in the butt b/c it's so cramped.

2) My Oil drain line (the one that had to be drilled and threaded into the oil pan) is leaking. I tried using the putty many people suggest before I ever started the car. Bad idea I guess, it's dripping at a decent rate. SOOO I have to chisel that away tomorrow morning and replace it with the thickest gasket sealer I could find at advanced auto.

3) I don't have timing control. Will be buying it used from a member here monday :)

4) Last, and BIGGEST problem-- Shaft play. I checked it when I bought it, none. Now, for some reason, it's pretty bad. I can hear the turbine scraping the walls of the snail.

Advice for any of these problems would be awesome. For the most part, I have plans for solving them, but input is still welcome.

Pics and video are starting to come, but all I have is a cell phone (college budget/turbo build kills my wallet). Here's two as teasers:

Attachment 205497
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1..._VIDEO0029.jpg

More pics and video to come.

Any questions, just ask. I have a lot of touch-up work to do, so sorry in advance for a bit of a late replay.

Also going to replace my sparks tomorrow.

Kev

Toddcod,

I can't send PM's (don't have 15 posts yet).

So here's my PM to you

Todd,

Any way you could do $75 for just the MSD box?


Thanks!
Kevin

Just another post to get to 15... sorry mods :(

And another...

Two more, I swear

last one!

also have a question. I want to run atmospheric blow off. Obviously I can't b/c it kills my idle at 500 rpm. If I adjust my idle to 1300 or so and run atmospheric, and it doesn't affect my idle, would it then be ok to run such a setup?

Kev

im selling my old o2 clamp if you want it

ok did my research, found out about the vta bov. Oh well, guess I have to wait until I get MS.

Sam- I don't need an o2 clamp... yet. Once I get everything set up correctly and safely, such as the MSD box, I will prob need one. But I already have a guy selling me one for cheap.

Kev

Just a comment, your air filter is sucking in hot air from the radiator fan causing high intake temps. I would move it and flip it to the other side behind the headlight.

+1 you can actually feel the hot air behind the fans when they're running after a drive

Yeah I know. Like I said, there are a lot of things to work out. I have to find a more efficient place for the intake, not only b/c of the heat, but also the 90 degree angle. But I really had no choice, my IC piping is right underneat it. I'll find a way, don't worry.

Kev

OK man, 1.8L injectors shipped to you today. You earned them.

Wow Kevin... That's all I have to say... you better clean up everything, and soon or you'll be carless again... You need to do a lot of servicing on your almost 200,000 mile car...don't ya think? you better fix that stuff seriously before I get back to school or you'll be left in the dust!!!! your going to need to rebuild that turbo and fix your boost leak, I'm impressed with what you've done in so far as the price other than that you've got tons to learn! (I'm not saying I don't) Your best bet is to put it back to stock then have your turbo fixed along with gather the rest of the parts you need
go in this order:
MS-Mega squirt (words can not describe how important this is)
WB- Wide band (AFR readings will save your ass)
INJ-injectors (need to be tuned correctly only with above things^^^)
Turbo shit you need (since you own the main bits, it's one less thing to buy)
It may seem like I'm bashing you and quite frankly it's because I am.... You need to do this one right the first time and save your self the problems of a rod or piston through the block....Again.......

And put your location in your user cp

Paul

Thanks for your comments? lol

I've covered myself this time around. The scoob was a $20k car... I'm dealing with a $1400 beat up miata. By covered myself, I mean:

First and foremost I have another stock block with 90k on it perfectly fine, along with access to tons of other stock parts for my car. But I actually own the block.

Secondly, I've never dealt with turbo applications, nor have I ever had the time or resources to really dive into learning turbo "stuffs." As you (and everyone else reading this) now know, I learned a lot in a very fast and applicable way. Everything I asked here on the forum, whether I got an answer or not, I learned. ALLLL those questions I've had for you and Justin, I've learned. Not to mention learning all that stuff during the install.

Third, I have added to my turbo "build" since I last updated this thread. Stein sent me the injectors and I installed them along with a wideband. The MSD ignition retard box is on its way to me in temporary place of MS and I will be putting my rx7 afm in tomorrow so I can more easily control my fuel mixture, especially in higher rpms (which is boost).

Last and certainly not least.. the turbo. Fixed all the boost leaks, fixed my exhaust problems further back, I have a newly rebuilt td04h clocked for my manifold sitting in my room right now ready to go in. I just gotta find the time to put it in, prob Saturday. The shaft play I'm hearing is worrying me, but again... this whole car has cost me less than $2500.

As for service on my 200k motor.. I may have been immature with the scoob. Partly because of lack of knowledge; partly because my dad disallowed me from working on my old car in any way (you know how that is... but imagine more strict!). Though I would say I am treating this car as a cheap toy.... well... it is. But I was not going to be THAT dumb to not do a shit ton of prep work (for the motor) before/during/after the build. Obvious things such as fluid changes, OE suspension/handling/transmission replacement bits were done, along with more in-depth diagnostics/chores.

I've had countless hours of help from numerous guys around here that I've gotten to know this summer and actually started to chill with other than for car shit. Made some connections too!

Can't wait for you, Justin, and Jeff to get back so we can work a bit, drive a bit, and chill. I think you all at LEAST will enjoy the benefits of meeting some of the people who have helped me... hell I'd say I've probably recieved 3-400 bucks worth of stuff (clamps, paint, hoses, injectors, piping/welding/exhaust work, etc etc) since I finished the build just because I've kind of joined this web of St. Auggie car geeks that is actually quite a large group but very subtle in the city.

PS: the miata will only be my daily for another 5 months or so ;)
PPS: Don't bring painful, past memories up on the internet (the scoob). It kills my credibility as a forum member (which is moy importante) and as a learning mechanic here in St. Augustine. Everyone who is anyone in the car scene here in Augs knows what I did to the subaru, so I'd rather not have it brought up. That was my last car, I shouldn't have owned that expensive of a car to "learn" on. Thanks bud.

So for everyone else (though if you read that, you can skip this); here are the CN updates:

1) Exhaust and boost leaks fixed
2) Stein's injectors put in (1.8) along with a WB o2
3) Paint job platform complete/lights tinted
4) Wastegate spring changed to 8 lbs but then changed back lol. Boost = addicting.
5) Parts ordered and/or being installed in during next 5 days: rx7 afm, MSD ignition retard box
6) Work done daily: progressing the paint job, painting the rims, cleaning interior/stripping and redoing interior bits (stuff that doesn't cost $$).

I work on the car an avg of about 3-4 hours a day. Having insomnia is a beautiful thing sometimes.

I'll keep you all updated if you want, if not.. I'll spend the time on the car instead of 20 minute write-ups :)

Kev

What did you do to the subaru? :giggle:

long story short, i was dumb and it go'ed boom.

Hey if you haven't ordered that RX-7 afm:

1. I have two if you'd like one for $5+shipping

2. I think the theory that they're better has been proven wrong, I went back to my stock one. Even if I lost a minute amount of power, not having to stretch the intake over the slightly larger diameter is worth it.

nope, didn't order it... just had it layin around. might play with it if I get bored before I get MS.

Kev

the unthinkable happened......lol