No oil pressure sender? What is this wizardry?
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Car is a '96 1.8
Got under my car today to look at running my oil lines, I don't see an oil pressure sender, and there is no feed port near my dipstick. What is this wizardry? And how do I work around it to run my oil lines? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345760102 |
You're looking at it in that pic
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You don't get a sender with a '96, you get a switch.
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I see, I was looking for the object on the right, when its actually the left. Still possible to tee off of this, correct?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345760708 |
yeah 96+ gets the failaids nb configuration
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Welcome to the wonderful world of fake oil pressure sender and gauge. Do yourself a favor and get a cluster from a 90 to 93 and pirate the real oil pressure gauge. After you get that installed in your cluster, replace that "switch" with a "sender" found here: OIL PRESSURE SENDER B61P-18-501. You can get one from any Miata in the junkyard with a real gauge and it should work. Arlington used to offer the gauges new but I guess Mazda finally ran out. I bought one back in the day for my 95 and it was... expensive. I never got to install it.
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I was under the impression that you could just use the 90-94 pressure sender and you'd have a functional gauge. Is that just for 95s? Or am I high right now?
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 919001)
Welcome to the wonderful world of fake oil pressure sender and gauge. Do yourself a favor and get a cluster from a 90 to 93 and pirate the real oil pressure gauge. After you get that installed in your cluster, replace that "switch" with a "sender" found here: OIL PRESSURE SENDER B61P-18-501. You can get one from any Miata in the junkyard with a real gauge and it should work. Arlington used to offer the gauges new but I guess Mazda finally ran out. I bought one back in the day for my 95 and it was... expensive. I never got to install it.
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Originally Posted by vehicular
(Post 919006)
I was under the impression that you could just use the 90-94 pressure sender and you'd have a functional gauge. Is that just for 95s? Or am I high right now?
edit: rather, the gauge works whether you have a sender or switch, but the sender is better because it gives an accurate readout, instead of an on/off. Not sure if you need to change cluster internals to upgrade to a sender, though. |
no, you need a 1.6 gauge as well.
1.8 oil pressure gauge reads 0 at 0v and 30psi at 'any volts' therefore, with a 1.6 sender, a 1.8 gauge will read "all of it", i.e. like 90psi. i believe you can mod the gauge but i think it's easier to just get a 1.6 one |
Teeing off is not the best idea when you consider the weight you hang off that tee, and the vibrations they are subjected to.
Just use a sandwich plate instead. |
94 Has the real gauge as well. You should just be able to change the resistor setup on the 95+ gauge to make it read whatever sender you want though if I remember what the back of the gauges look like.
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 919113)
Teeing off is not the best idea when you consider the weight you hang off that tee, and the vibrations they are subjected to.
Just use a sandwich plate instead. Also, if you use a brass tee, brass is pretty soft and doesn't usually fatigue to the point of snapping And if you are worried still, you can get a stainless steel tee from a number of websites that wouldn't break if you hit it with a sledge hammer. |
Also, I've seen plenty of sandwich adapters leak like mad :D
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Never saw a tee break - used one for about a year and a half with the full-size pressure sender hanging off the end.
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The Honder kids break T's all the time. Makes for bad afternoons.
I prefer to run a short braided line to the sending unit mounted on the firewall with a t-bolt mount like you would use on a catch can. Then put the T there and run the feed line around the back of the firewall with adell clamps. Looks clean, you'll never break anything this way, and it costs only a few dollars more than buying a single line and risking engine death. |
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