OBX manifold
 

Hi, I joined today just to put in my $o.o2 but now I have questions for my own application. I'm ordering flyinmiata's voodoo box on wednesday and still need to go junkyard digging, but whas wondering if anybody has used the ebay OBX manifolds to any great deal of success since they look like the most reliable to me, but I'm pretty new to this. Any help on whether it is any good or suggestion for another manifold on the cheap would be greatly appreciated.

I have one question first....why the voodoo box? Very limited in what it can do.

I was told that unlike FPR's which require boost to be built first the voodoo can start applying fuel sooner, but any woes of this thing or any other advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

The Voodoo box allows you to use your stock fueling system and it has a built in O2 Clamp. That is all though. It's around $410 isn't it? For less than that you could get an Emanage blue which will allow you to run larger injectors which means the ability to run more boost.
I have the Voodoo box but only because it came with the car when I bought it. I wonder if the prev. owner never did any research or what because he wasted money big time when he made that purchase.
So basically you can spend more money for a far less capable system and beat yourself up over it for the rest of forever. Or you can buy an Emanage Blue or heck get an Emanage Ultimate because that would leave you with an awesome setup with good support from this forum for a little more than the cost of the Voodoo box.
It's all up to you, but the Voodooo box is IMO your worst possible option. I speak from sad experience. Hell I'll sell you mine if you don't mind waiting, i need to get rid of it sometime anyway.

for way less than half the cost of the voodoobox you could get a jaycar digital fuel adjuster and one of olderguy's o2 clamps. the dfa will let you fit some big injectors and is very tuneable (128 load points), but it's d.i.y so you gotta build it yourself, not a problem if you have decent soldering skills.

Does the e-manage blue still allow you to use stock(and or 1.8) injectors as well as control the fuel levels? I'm not wanting to put huge injectors in since for the time being I am only hoping to run about 6-8 psi. Also, please correct me if I am wrong, but I've heard the the e-manages only work at WOT, is this true or not?

yes it does, emanage would be rpm and not laod based as we have on/off tps's and not variable tps's like you find in say a 240, or other car

Then why use this if it will only kick in when I'm at WOT? I plan on using the car as a daily driver and this sounds a bit messed up. If I'm understanding this correctly.

ahem why do you want to add fuel before you have boost we run rich enough anyway, the FPR only adds fuel while in boost this is a perfect solution any issues of pressure buildup lag, is masked by our afore mentioned rich stock fuel curves. BTW voodoo is mucho expensive for what you get.

Which FPR is the best? I looked at Bell's a few times.

No you are not understanding anything apperently. We effectivly dont have a tps so wot or partial throttle makes no difference The fpr will do what you like with ease for alot less money and still be reliable hell i made 200whp with one and some WI on the stock fuel system. Dont try to fix what isnt broke. The emanage just intercepts the stock signals of your sensors and manipulates them based on rpm or if you wire in a map sensor you can tune it by boost level as well. the real advantage to an emanage is the adjustability once in boost, and the ability to autotune with a wb02 sensor.
BTW most of the miatas on this site even the 250whp+ ones are daily drivers i drove mine alot to and from work etc and it was very reliable and many others will echo these sentiments. FM is not a magic company that will give you the most powerfull and reliable miata they are a good company but they are expensive and, You can do better for less with abit of homework. please spend some time reading the forum and see what we have been doing for years.

Any fpr will work look at braineacks DIY thread for info in picking the right rate i run cheapo ebay obx fpr and it works fine i get 113 psi fp with my walboro 255(not recommended for mild setups)

Ah ok this is making sense now. How about the FPR though, which one do you suggest? I've looked at Bengi's and AEM's but I've heard good things about Bengi on this site and they look like the most reliable to me.

Any fpr will do like i said i run a cheapo ebay one the begi adjustable ones are friggin awsome but they are not always in stock and they are 250 or so $ BTW you have pm i did abit of digging on some of our more popular setups and sent you some links to the trheads enjoy.

Does your a/f stay consistent throughout your rpm's? I'm looking at an obx one on ebay now and sounds reasonable.

This one will work
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-F...QQcmdZViewItem
this is what i havehttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-FMU-10-1-FUEL-MANAGEMENT-FPR-MIATA-SENTR-200SX_W0QQitemZ300072806798QQihZ020QQcategoryZ3355 5QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
And the peice the resistance the Bell engineering units
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_FPR.html Designed by renowned author Corky Bell himself

My AF was pretty good by 4K rpm i was about 12.3-1, and past paeck torque 5800 i was going back richer towards 12-1 flat. In Braineacks DIY thread FPR rate selection is discussed very thoroughly. MY WI allows me to use abit of an agressive setup and then just feed it alot more air than most people do to lean it out. but others lose power with to much fuel obviusly your results will vary.

BTW if your af is constant throughout the rpm then you are either NA or something is wrong boosted motors like 13-1 or less while in boost while NA motors make more power in the 14-1 range closer to stoich. The main difference is the heat and pressure in the cylinders and detonation issues. As well as inconsistant burn rate.

Thx for all the help, I'll probably end up getting an OBX I saw that comes with a fuel pressure gauge. I'll check by later if I get any dumber.
Thx for the help.

No sweat i started as a Nissan guy myself it isnt that you are dumb its just you havent been shown correctly yet.