:bigtu: Turbo timer.. just need to have the time to install mine.. Blitz dual turbo timer and no english wiring diagrams = procrastination and lazyness.

sixshooter -24v relays on standard timers should be fine. you can always get voltage regulators or convertors to power it..

Running one on you car is fine, but buying a fleet worth of them would be expensive and just one more thing to go wrong, sending a mechanic and a truck out is very expensive for something as simple as wiring, and on heavy equipment they go through hell and back and the wiring takes a beating. I would rather send out a memo and send a few operators home then install a turbo timer and voltage regulator on all my machines. But have wanted one for my car for some time. I always use Amsoil so I dont have to worry about it cooking in the turbo.

time for idleAire and generators...oh wait, CA has their own rules for those, too.

It is surprising that we have heavy trucks and drivers still doing business in CA. My owner operators hate CA.

Oh yeah, my set up is oil cooled only. Last year I did pressurize my crank case by closing off the breather tube. The result? I blew the turbo seals.:eek5:

My greddy had MANY miles on it and when I sent it out for upgrade they said it was in great shape.

For what it's worth I didn't hook up the water lines on any of my turbos (for the sake of simplicity). I always ran with an external oil cooler though, whatever that means.

So, if I'm running an oil only cooled turbo, and think it would be best to implement an oil cooler, how do I route the lines? Should I use the feed line and add a cooler before the oil enters the turbo, or run it between the turbo and the drain line? (I'm a newb, and feel like this is a dumb question)

Greddy for about 80k miles. Possibly more, I'm not sure how long the PO had it on. Seals started leaking about 20k ago. Still have standard drain which sucks. I need to tap the pan. I'll rebuilt or get a new one when the new drain is in.

The drain must be un-pressurized and unobstructed because it works by gravity, therefore the only place you could place the cooler would be pre-turbo.

This is for your '96, right? You've already got the best oil cooler money can buy for a street car. It's a circular sandwich plate between the oil filter and the block, though which bypass coolant flows. Keeps the oil in the low 200s, and has the added benefit of pre-heating the oil with warm coolant when the engine is warming up.

Unless you are actually tracking the car, or have documented overheating of the oil, you don't need an additional oil cooler.

I'm finally adding the oil/water cooler that I purchased last summer, this weekend...

My oil cooled only (no water jackets at all in the CHRA) T4 60-1 just died on my after 9 short months and under 10k miles. I don't use a turbo timer as they are kinda cheese, but I don't hit full boost up my driveway and I do let it idle for a bit if I am really flogging it. I only found it by pure luck. I had the head off as I was upping the compression from 7:1 up to 9:1 and installing a mild set of cams. I figured I would check the shaft play. 1/4" is pretty excessive. I was missing parts of both the turbine and compressor wheels. The car still has hauling ass and spooling fine.

I sent the CHRA back to ATP yesterday.....we will see how much they really love me ;)

yeah, but would having water jackets have saved it?

ATP received the CHRA today. I am very anxious to hear the diagnosis. I think my diverter valve is too small and not venting enough air between shifts. I will either add a second one or jump to a large Forge valve.

Feeding an oil cooler through a -4AN line would be an exercise in futility. I use a Mocal adapter with a built-in thermostat.