soflarick

iTrader: (8)

Where's the radiator coolant inlet? Inlet and outlet both on driver side? Get rid of the AC and you'll have room and drop a good 30 or so lbs.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

so close. that's just painful to see.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

The inlet and outlet are both on the exhaust- it's a double pass rad. AC is NOT going, no way, never. Even if the compressor did try to fall off. :gay:

I think the easiest thing to do is put the cap on the front crossover coolant pipe (in front of the cam gears) and remove the filler on the rad tank sealing it shut. I've actually got an aluminum filler neck from a KL v6 that I could cut and weld on and get the similar result.

MX_Eva

Nice placement for the merc. oil cooler though. Thing is big! I think if I come to find I need one I might put it in the shroud between the firewall and windsheild. If oil temps get hot, you can open up the cabin vents to outside air for increased pull across the cooler. It only requires drilling holes for the oil lines to pass through the rad.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Where are you measuring oil temps from?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Eva- I think you meant "pass through the firewall". I'm not convinced that's the best place for the cooler. It's been my experience up to this point that putting the cooler in the easy to install spot is going to get you less for your effort. Of course that all depends on what your after in the end. I want acceptable oil temps after an absolute pounding on the track.

Temp is measured post everything- in the pan. Oil only turbo with total capacity of almost 5 qts. (4-1/2 in the sump plus the lines and small cooler). Ben and I were talking about the lack of oil capacity on most jap cars compared to the europeans- especially when turbos are added. I checked around for oil temps on some other cars - for example the turbo volvo 5 cylinders see around 260f peak with a hard track beating and 7 quarts of oil. Right now I see that and then some on a hot day with a some street boosted runs on my tiny oil cooler. That merc cooler is supposedly 1-1/2 qts - I'll check for sure.

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

I run the ISC remote filter/cooler kit. I am using a huge oil filter, generic SAE thread on the filter mount. With the smallish cooler and remote filter I have about an extra quart in the system. Hoses are -8. Probably be well over a quart once the whole turbo setup is installed. 347 Mustang I used to run had a 7 quart pan, remote cooler, and required 8 quarts to fill it just below the full line on the dipstick.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm considering something like this

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I think that'd be a lot more efficient if the sides were closed up (maybe it is?). I was going to try my cooler there next, but realized it would (based on my observations at the time) taken the same amount of work and wasn't up for another "try it and see".

I've seen a bunch of X nascar oil coolers that are about 4" tall, 4" thick and 28" wide. I bet they'd work fine under a FMIC in the front. There's a lot of vertical space up there w/o breaking the lower plane of the subframe.

Check this one out- that's a $2-300 oil cooler.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Have you considered a oil-to-coolant heat exchanger approach? This is used on several sportbikes and is a very compact system. It could be a viable approach especially if you have an oversized radiator.

This is used for biodiesel to coolant heat exchange to preheat the fuel before injection. Could work...
http://cgi.ebay.com/FPHE-20-Plate-He...QQcmdZViewItem

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

No - it might work on sport bikes, but it doesn't on race cars. I'm not sure if it's displacement or the fact that a sportbike cooling system see less duty. What I do know is that every race car out there that uses exchangers for both uses isolated systems.

I'm not to far from resolving this - the crossover now has a filler neck on it, I just need to pull the rad. Though I'm working on the EBC issue right now.

j_man

Well, every '94+ Miata has that oil cooler stock. It can't deal with the extra heat at track events, that's why people around are adding a second cooler inline (in addition to the stock one)

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Maybe a lower duty cycle on the street, but for endurance racing we run them as hard as we can for hours at a time. Most everyone uses the stock cooling system.

At any rate, just a suggestion. Sounds like you are almost there with the oil-to-air approach.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

i wish i could sort out all my MS crap and move on to real problems, like boost control and coolant re-routes, oil coolers, ducting and undertrays, etc. lol
props to you for being FI man, thats all i can say

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

How many years do you have in the project at this point? Your day will come.

Got the peace pipe (coolant crossover with filler neck) completed and pressure tested to 50 psi.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Is that some of your aluminum welding skills? (looks like an AL filler neck)

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Yes.... actually that's my grinder skills you're looking at. There's a lot of aluminum wire in there :gay: I had a big gap to fill.
excuse 2: the most retarded thing about this Clarke MIG spool gun is the fact that the wire speed dial (at the base of the gun) does NOT lock. So if you bump it, guess what? Surprise new wire speed. That got me a couple of times. I practiced a couple of runs but needless to say, this was not as good. That said, "pressure tested to 50psi".

RusMan

Hey I've got a quick question about the mocal plate, I've got one myself. Do you remember the threads on it, I need to get an adapter to the an fittings?

thanks

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

1/2 NPT

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Has anybody ever tried adding an exchanged to cool the water that goes through the OEM oil cooler, rather than hanging a second oil cooler in series with it? The coolant passing through that thing is typically 180° or so to begin with. If you were to mount a small water-air radiator up front and pass the water through this prior to the OEM oil cooler, it would increase the effectiveness. Plus it means you'd be running lines with a relatively low volume of low-pressure, non flammable water in them, rather than a high volume of high-pressure, flammable oil.