Oil Pan Tap
I'm getting ready to tap my pan and was wondering how deep I can drill until I have to worry about the pickup. I was planning on using a stepper bit to make the hole but I would have to drill over an inch in to get to the size I need. Don't want to kill my oil pickup. :bang:
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I would personally caution against a stepper bit.
A: going into to far and yes, hitting the oil pickup. B: stepping too far for your tap to properly be sized and fit your fitting. C: Stepper bits make many shavings. and can easliy transport shavings deeper into a pan. Get the proper bit for the tap size and drill once. Just my thoughts Goodluck |
+1
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Wrap about 10-15 turns of electrical tape around the drill about 1/2" up from the tip to form a depth stop. This cushion will prevent the drill from being sucked in deeper than the tape. Don't push too hard when you are almost through and you won't have any problems. The pan is only about 1/8" thick so it won't take much effort to do it.
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Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 374511)
Wrap about 10-15 turns of electrical tape around the drill about 1/2" up from the tip to form a depth stop. This cushion will prevent the drill from being sucked in deeper than the tape. Don't push too hard when you are almost through and you won't have any problems. The pan is only about 1/8" thick so it won't take much effort to do it.
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You need less the 1cm of bit to get through the pan.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 374516)
+1 to the man who is 8 post shy of loosing round two. :giggle:
EDIT: OK, I just became a Democrat. I agree in spreading the wealth so I'm going to give away some of my post count to the unfortunate and those too lazy to work for their own. There, I'm back to 950 posts. Got plenty of time to get it done. |
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 374531)
Well... yeah...there's that but, ummm...I forgot what I was going to say. I might be running tonight, though. That is if my damn MAP showed up in the mail.
EDIT: OK, I just became a Democrat. I agree in spreading the wealth so I'm going to give away some of my post count to the unfortunate and those too lazy to work for their own. There, I'm back to 950 posts. Got plenty of time to get it done. Try to avoid the stepper bit, I don't think it is required. The pan is quite soft, is even a pilot hole required? |
Originally Posted by mazda/nissan
(Post 374719)
The pan is quite soft, is even a pilot hole required?
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OK after a trip to the hardware store today I got everything and tapped my pan. Still hit the oil pickup :crx: no damage though... atleast I don't think there was.
Now on to better things. I hope to have this thing running in the next week as long as I hit no more road blocks |
Where did you drill the hole? I can't find any pictures of it. Can you tell me the exact measurements? Thanks.
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I found this to be very helpful. I kinda wanted to know what was where in my oil pan before drilling.
All the way forward and mid way up is where I should have done it. It's far away from the oil pickup and nothing to really worry about hitting. Oil Pan Drilling |
This is where I ended up doing it. I drilled a little lower and nicked the top of the baffle and had an oh shit moment. :eek5:
http://s100085498.onlinehome.us/.upl...s/36453237.jpg |
Thanks. So the original fitting was too low? Do you have to lift the engine to remove the oil pan?
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Wow. Okay, its definitely too risky IMO to NOT pull the pan for this. I'd rather take the extra hour or two tops and be certain it was done right.
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I dont think pulling the pan is an hour job with the engine in the car. Its pretty tight to the subframe and I dont know how far you could lift the engine with the mounts undone before it hit the trans tunnel/firewall. I would MUCH rather risk it and do it the standard way than try to pull the pan, and have to deal with sealing it back up fighting the subframe the whole time. I had a fitting welded on, so I had to do no drilling :fawk:
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I dont think it would take that long either, but that doesnt mean if actually wont ;)
Gotta factor in what I call "stupid time," which is room for mistakes, things you didnt think would get in the way, and other unaccounted for lapses in getting things done. Anyways I still think its pretty risky to do with the pan left in the car. Yeah theres more potential to mess something up when reinstalling etc., but I still say metal shavings you dont account fo are too costly to leave in the pan. |
Originally Posted by Orion ZyGarian
(Post 378672)
Wow. Okay, its definitely too risky IMO to NOT pull the pan for this. I'd rather take the extra hour or two tops and be certain it was done right.
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Originally Posted by boiracerxx
(Post 378718)
I don't have a cherry picker, so it means i might have to do it with the oil pan on the car than. Doesn't the oil filter filter out the metal shavings?
I had mine welded to the pan, but I was doing a motor swap at the time, so not really fair. However, on a 2005 mustang GT, when installing a Vortech supercharger kit on it, they had a novel way to tap the pan. The instructions suggested just using a center punch to make the hole, which causes the metal to curve inwards. Then you use a tap with the appropriate threads, and pack the center of it with grease to catch the shavings. Once you have your threads, then you put the threaded drain piece in, and drain the motor oil. |
Orian, I think NA6C-guy is saying it'll take way long than an hour to pull the pan, which requires pulling the engine or dropping the entire front subframe. You have to unbolt the tranny and move it back, cause I think there's some pins. And isn't the main seal bolted half to the block, half to the pan? And then there's the fact that if you haven't taken it off from the factory yet, it'll be glued on there with superglue and you'll need a lot of force and leverage to get it off.
I drilled and tapped the pan with it off as well, but it was only because it was already out of the car for a rebuild, do yourself a favor and be very careful, grease your bit, and do it with the engine in the car |
Word. Do it in the car. It will take you way less than an hour. Plus with the pan in the car you can check your clearances around the fittings.
Wrap the drill bit with tape like described above. This is a very good idea. I personally would drill a pilot hole to keep the bit from walking. If the bit is not perfectly straight with the pan surface (90 degs) do not worry because you can fix that when you run the tap into the hole. Believe me I agonized about this too, but after I did it I realized I was worrying for nothing. Be careful, go slow, but it's easy. Read my installation thread in the link below. I do not think the Mustang punch technique described above will work here. I'll bet the Mustang pan is a bent sheet metal unit. The Miata pan is cast aluminum. I would not try it myself. |
yeah, I don't think you can center punch a hole....
the center punch's purpose is to make a small divot in the surface you're drilling so the tip of the drill bit doesn't walk off from its location before it starts making its own hole. as a machinist, I would suggest using a center punch to help locate your drill, but not to do the drilling. |
http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...ctions_SSM.pdf
Maybe this will help. Page 8-9. |
Aw come on, whats wrong with hitting a punch with a large hammer on a cast aluminum pan? It might make a hole, but as to what size or shape is anyones guess.
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
(Post 378789)
Aw come on, whats wrong with hitting a punch with a large hammer on a cast aluminum pan? It might make a hole, but as to what size or shape is anyones guess.
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you live and learn... i ran the tap too far through today so the drain fits slightly loose. looks like i will be using a lot of teflon tape and maybe some JB
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Try another fitting if they're not too expensive. You might find one that isn't threaded as much and would fit tighter.
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yeah right now i have a plug in there because im not turboing for another week or 2. I just looked at the 3/8 to barb fittings i have for the oil drain and it looks like it'll fit nicer.
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Just use some metal epoxy (like JB weld) and thread it into place and it will be fine.
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 378878)
Just use some metal epoxy (like JB weld) and thread it into place and it will be fine.
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Oil pan in the car is one of the few things I havent actually done on my car, but I didnt think it would really be that bad..lifting the engine up and splitting the trans? Damn. I forgot that the rear main seal was bolted in nicely in a rather ingenious way; though one that makes it impossible to take the pan off without the engine out.
I feel kinda dumb now, just recently joining and discussing a topic that was figured out long ago. Forgive me, but drilling an oil pan isnt something I find particularly attractive. I guess theres not much of a choice though. |
Originally Posted by Mach929
(Post 378885)
i put silicone on the theads and snugged it, it's been fine for years. I worried that if i used jb weld and it developed a problem i'd be screwed. Many oems use silicone as oil pan sealant (as on miatas) so i figured this should hold ok.
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yes I know a lot of people say its easyish to do with the engine in the car but I'm really glad I had mine out.
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Has anyone ever tried flushing the oil shavings from the newly drilled hole? Of course with the car leaning towards the drain hole and the drain plug out. Probably get more out than with just draining the oil, which is still going to leave a sticky film on the pan. I mean using something thin, maybe ATF or just some cheap mineral spirits. Or maybe thats common practice. Im so glad I did mine with the engine out though. It was a nightmare to get the pan off even having easy access. That factory sealant is a BITCH to get off. My windage tray got all bent up, but hammered back into shape easily enough. No leaks yet after 1500 miles.
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When I drilled I drained all oil afterwards then filled it up and drained it again. Filtered the oil to remove any thing in it then put the oil back in and repeated that till no more shavings came out after draining. Then I filled it with fresh oil. Friend of mine said I better use a magnetic oil plug to catch any more shavings that might be left but don't think he knew it was an aluminum pan. I did end up using one anyway just to catch anything else that might be in the pan. Never can be to safe.
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