Oil Take Off and other small pieces (plus questions)
 

Getting ready to order some of the last little pieces for my build from Tuner Toys.

One thing I need is the oil take off that goes beteen the sender and the block. This one Tuner Toys Oil Take Off - Dual Outlet is said to be for a Honda, but 1/8 BSP is the same as our motors, correct? I looked and looked on the Begi site, but I couldn't find theirs.

Also picking up this:Tuner Toys Water Line Kit for Turbochargers w/14mm water ports water line kit. 14mm fittings for the T25, correct?

Finally, oil drain flange Tuner Toys 44mm Oil Drain Flange Kit. I have silicone line and the fitting for the pan already unless you can convince me that I am being an idiot for not going stainless. I have a stainless -4an for the feed.

Bought my AEM UEGO today.

Still need to buy a clutch and it looks like Carolina Clutch still has the best deal on the ACT HDSS.

I need to get a Zoom3 as soon as they are released.

I need to decide on which Ebay IC and pipe kit to get to best fit an NB. Any suggestions?

Inexpensive BOV suggestions? I understand that there a bazillion Ebay cheapo units, but deciding which one has me confused.

Finally, what did you T25 guys do for the CAI where it mounts to the turbo? Mine has a flat flange with two tapped holes on the compressor housing and no provision for slipping a silicone coupler over the "normally available" neck that is common on the GT turbos.

Sorry I am so chock full of questions today but it's coming down to the end of the part hoarding process and close to the assembly process.

Haha, been there, done that. I just ordered a lot of these items myself so I'll share my experience

I bought that dual outlet thingy from TT's. Only complaint is the plug that come with it to plug one of the outlets (since some people don't need both outlets) doesn't screw in tight. Perhaps with several wraps of Teflon tape it will, but I'll probably pick up a 1/8 pipe tap plug so I don't have to worry about this one ever vibrating loose and the engine loosing oil pressure.

$67.50 buys all the fittings and 3' of -12AN braided stainless line to build an oil return from Summit. (I have a list of part numbers if ya want them) For the price, I personally can't see spending any less on something cheaper. But I have a background working on commercial/industrial equipment where things are built to last a long time through tough environments and are built to be as reliable as possible. Shit happens and you want to be ready for it. If a 30 dollar oil line fails it takes out a lot more than $30 worth of engine. I enjoy the peace of mind knowing my oil lines are the best they can be. And generally* speaking, AN fittings don't leak where barb fitting/clamp fittings do sometimes.

*I've seen AN lines leak, but usually from operator error. IE-way overtightened tapered fittings that damaged the tapers. And I've always had bad luck sealing oil lines with barb fittings and hose clamps. I swear, it's like impossible to make a 100% leak free connection....

I bought a knock off Tial sytle BOV from Evans Performance, a sponsor on homemadeturbo. Like 70 bucks shipped. Here's a few pics. Quality looks great to me. It's just like the tial part, V band connection and everthing. Came with an extra O-ring, V band thing to weld to the steel charge pipes, etc.

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...5/100_1570.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...5/100_1568.jpg

Also, I bought some mild steel mandrel bends from Racing Solutions (steel so I can weld it all up myself, like 65 bucks for a bunch of bends) and bought my silicone bends and silicone couplers and T-bolts from Evans Performance. (I bought a lot from him at once, $330 worth of CDM, and he gives discounts when you buy a lot). Ebay is cheaper, but his stuff's better. From what I can see, it's all pretty damn nice. I bought a knock off Tial wastegate, BOV, lots of silicone bends and couplers, flanges, etc.

Anyways, I bought knockoff BOV and wastegate because if a BOV fails, it will be obvious and not break anything immediately. If the wastegate fails, MS has over boost protection. But if an oil line breaks and I loose oil pressure, there is no fail safe that kicks in. So I pony up for those items and go cheap on the stuff I can safely go cheap on. If that makes sense. This is my only car at college, so I can't loose and engine or have the car out of service cause 1 part failed.

How do you plan to do your IC routing? The traditional way? What size IC? You know how I'm doing mine. Mine will take two 90* silicone bends, a coupler, a 90* 2" to 2.5" transition coming off the turbo, and two pipes.

Also, might look into finding a used MSM clutch on ebay. I've heard of people finding them for stupidly cheap prices with very few miles on them. Paul's making 300whp on a MSM clutch.

Rob and I have had good luck with this BOV. If you don't want recirc, or don't like purple, they have this one too.

I don't know if I want VTA or recirc, mainly because I don't know the plusses and minuses. I'd guess I could buy the recirc one and go either way by just putting a filter on the end?

FWIW, if you run a Zoom3 you're probably gonna have to keep the stock MAF sensor, and have to recirculate anyways so the ECU doesn't "see" a lot of air when it blows off, thereby flooding the engine. Unless the Zoom3 somehow compensates for this. I like the one I bought. :) Man I can't wait to turbo this thing.

Pat:

Thanks for all the info. Let me dig through it a bit.

I'm running the purple recirc valve as vta, not even with a filter.

Yeah, but if I need to recirc for the Zoom 3, that one won't work for me. Good point on the MAF. Recirc it is.

I looked at the Racing Solutions steel bend builder kit for $65. I'll probably go that way instead of the "sea of couplers" look and aluminum pipes. I can TIG it all together in as long of a run as I can manipulate into the car to minimize joints, plus add TIG weld beads for coupler retention. I fail at TIG welding aluminum.

CDM Madness!!!!

That's a link to all the stuff Evans Performance sells. He has a knock off greddy BOV that can be used for VTA or recirculate for 65 shipped. I almost bought that one. He says it's actually a better part then the Greddy. Says the machine work is nicer, better parts, better QC, etc. And he said all the parts from a greddy will fit it, so it's rebuildable. But I liked the look of the knock off tial, and he said the tial was quieter, plus it's V banded, so that's what I got.

FWIW, there are some piggybacks that allow for a VTA BOV. But it's not common. Ask begi or read up, theirs might allow for a VTA if you want noise.

I saw that thread. What's up with $25 silicone couplers?

Regardless of the requirements for MAF, I've decided to recirc because I don't want the noise. May do the Greddy KO or the one that Atlanta linked.

I couldn't find a MSM clutch anywhere on CL or Ebay, so I'll probably just do the ACT and be done with it. I'm not going to try one of the cheapos and be constantly pulling my tranny.

Those are silicone bends. They're expensive anywhere. But I needed some for my car to simplify the charge pipes. And all his prices are shipped prices. I bought like 425 worth of stuff, but then he re figured all the shipping and gave me a package deal and it was 330 shipped. Straight couplers I don't even know a price on.

I know it's probably cheaper on ebay. I just figured rather than buying 6 different things on ebay, I'd get a price price from him for those 6 things and see what the cost would be turned out the price was about the same, but I got better parts, and 1 transaction, not 6, saved on shipping, etc. So it all depends I guess.

I got the Chuck Norris stage ACT going in mine.

that same oil fitting is cheaper here: stealthmode//performance

there is no shipping charge

Well, I got the IC piping that Pat suggested and the oil take off (and oil drain flange for the T25 that I needed) from Stealthmode that akaryrye suggested. Thanks guys. I'm waiting for a call from Wells Fargo to verify that my debit card hasn't been stolen, seeing as I dropped well over a grand on six different merchants all online in the last day.:giggle:

3 couplers per side is all you should need. Turbo, middle, IC and IC, middle, Throttle Body. You can do that easily with simple bends.