Ok so im taking the plunge..
 

Alright well a friend of mine is building his DSM up and i have free reign over parts off the car. Turbo injectors.. whatever i need i can get.. my question is how well is the small 16g going to be on a 1.6? i have a friend who is pretty much a guru with turbo shit, his 2.3 beater mustang makes over 300 and its carbed.. he tells me itll be fine, but i wanted to know if anyone here has a DIY kit with dsm shit on it and how soon you hit boost... its going to be built into a drift car

^^^^^This............this is not an intro thread


maybe you should make an intro thread, cause my turbo senses are starting to tingle for the ass raping to be thrusted upon you!

Where to begin... where to begin...

So, you want to base your entire build around one part... one part that you can get anywhere for $100? Sounds like a shit idea.

Here's what you need to do.
#1: Set a budget.
#2: Set a power goal.
#3: Assess you capabilities as far as assembly, fabrication, etc...
#4: Do homework.
If you don't do it in that order, you end up chasing your tail, buying parts you learn you can't use, buying parts you end up settling for, and never being satisfied with your setup.

Now... when you say "drift car", do you mean something that is competitive and legal in a sanctioned series or are you just talking about offramps? I'll assume it's the latter because if it was the former, you wouldn't be asking about raping a DSM for parts.

So, what kind of drifting are we talking about... wide rubber on a big track... carrying your line in 4th at 90mph and still needing power in reserve or just some donuts in a wet parking lot?

Tell us more about exactly what you want this Miata to look like and be able to do when you're done with your build. Be specific, be detailed, be honest about your budget and abilties. We can help answer all your questions and make sure you head down the right path. You can imagine we get a lot of douchebag drifto wannabes in here that buy a $500 Miata, cut holes in the airbox, turn their hats around backwards, and call themselves DK. If you give off that impression, the locals will crush you. Be legit and you'll get legit advice.

I smell troll...

A miata drift car...is the car going to be painted to look like a giant $3 bill?

16g works just fine on a 1.6 megan racing fleabay manis are the cheapest option. This is not for the faint of heart you will have to make alot of shit to have it all work. But overall i like mine. i make boost by 1800 rpm and have 15 psi by 4300.

i have drifted before, in an s14.. im going to do events that i can make it to with work... the tracks used to see 65+mph... as for the having to make alot of shit that doesnt bother me,this is my 2nd miata build, the first was N/A i sold off most of its parts.. i still have the cage. coilover etc.. power goals, im hoping to make 200ish. maybe 250.. the fabrication part isnt going to be too hard, i have accest to a machine shop. tig or mig welders. anything i really need... budget id like to stay under 1k..
This is how the car sits...
Attachment 198476
Attachment 198477

the horse power numbers are just for starters untill i get used to the car. i dont wanna go apeshit crazy at first with it and it not still be streetable this is still my dd afterall

cr.net

GTFO

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0489_large.jpg

:drama:

yea were posers alright..heres some pictures of our little drift heaven.. privatly owned track we have access too
Attachment 198470
Attachment 198471
Attachment 198472
Attachment 198473
Attachment 198474
Attachment 198475

Must be this high to post here.

http://www.quest-online.com/NewFiles.../CondiRice.jpg

Try, http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/home.php

He told us.... we got to get a track as well now for the Forum.



[QUOTE=drftroadster;555591]yea were posers alright..heres some pictures of our little drift heaven.. privatly owned track we have access too

Cr.net is full of dumbasses, i came here to ask questions instead i find douche bags.. fine by me.. sorry i dont want to spend the astronomical price FM wants, and i like to do things myself.. you guys already get alot of shit talked on you, perhaps you should think about helping some one rather then the hey lets act like total ******s to this guy cos my e-peen is soo big.

please help yourself by not posting dumb remarks any more.
thanks.

There was a time when you couldn't even join this site with a name containing drift, drft, etc... not because everyone that drifts is a douchebag, we have some pretty bad ass members who are all about drifting, you however, seem to fall under the douchebag category. Having a "private track" :ne: skill or even lack of douchebaggery. Now GTFO with your buttsecksing bullshit.

When you're picking over his DSM see if he's got any shift keys, or commas.



The DSM T25s have funky flanges, and are a little small for our cars. Unless it's an upgrade turbo, it won't have a powerband conducive to drifting. I drive a car with a little IHI, and while it's fun around town, it definitely lacks the balls up top you'd need to keep the rear tires roasting while sliding at any kind of decent speed.

There are plenty of DIY routes out there...check out some of the build threads. But unless you can weld you're pretty well stuck paying someone for used FM or BEGi hotside parts, or contacting one of the guys on the forum that does fab work (TurboTim, ARTech, wayne curr).

Once you have a manifold and downpipe, and a matching turbo, it's pretty easy to cobble together some intercooler piping, and oil/water feed/drain lines for the turbo.

What you should be focusing on now is engine management, and not hardware. Sure you can avoid the cost of a kit by scouring the classifieds, but you can not get around the fact that you want full control of ignition timing and fuel delivery.

There is a lot of information that will be helpful to you in the FAQ. The guys here are a little jaded from all of the kids that pollute this forum with the same questions every week and then disappear.

The stock bottom end will hold 200-250 wheel horsepower depending on tune and engine condition. Beyond that you will need forged rods. Do not over-rev the stock bottom end.

There are others running that size turbo with success in those power ranges.

You will need engine management to be safe and effective. Common types are listed in the FAQ.

Keep your cool with the locals until they get to know you. Bite your tongue for a while until the hazing passes and you will pass the test. It is a test.

Most here did not buy a kit. Most have built and pieced together their setups and have done a tremendous amount of research and hands-on development. This is actually part of the reason that they are a little harsh with noobs. They want you to take the initiative to search out the information here yourself. There is a tremendous amount of archived information here that is only a search button away. If you then ask clarifying questions you will not receive abuse. You will often only be shunned if you ask generalized questions with no displayed effort to find the answers yourself. It is viewed as lazy by those here that are "doers." We are a helpful bunch but will not spoon feed you unless you are a chick.

It is customary on this forum to create a post in the "meet and greet" section introducing yourself and outlining your skills, goals, and what year model/equipment you are working with. It is also common practice to edit your information so that your location shows up under your screen name, that others local to you may offer to help or invite you to events. Doing these simple things will show that you are interested in "joining" as opposed to just "taking." The type of responses you receive afterward will typically be different.

We just get too many of the wrong kinds of people creating nonsensical threads and asking too many of the same questions every week.

Welcome and good luck.

You look like a poser ******, and I bet your fabrication skills are fucking incredible...which is why you're a fast food working ****** who will soon if not already live off the tax money teet of the socially productive like myself.

Rather than be nice to ******s like yourself who manage to burst your colostomy bag of self-righteous entitlement in your very first post on this forum, we invite you to eat our shit on toast. We have better things to do than spoon feed ******s like yourself and worry about other queer forums thinking "those trickster turbo miata guys are mean." Instead of crying about it here, why not hang yourself from your belt because your mother never loved you, never will, and you're going to die a virgin.

hustler if i had a childhood hero, it would be you!

Whenever I read a post like this it makes me feel like maybe, just maybe, our country has a fighting chance in hell.

I would embrace you and provide for you. Put your little hand in mine. I would be your father figure, until the end of time.

Sorry for the abuse you are getting Toby. There are a lot of people where who seem to think "drifting" automatically makes you retarded.

In any case, unfortunately there isn't a whole lot of 'love' for DSM T2s. It can be done, but for the most part you'd be best off fabbing up your own log style manifold and making your own downpipe. Not sure why you have to prove you are capable of doing such to everyone else on the internet but it's definitely do-able for the prices you are looking at. Megasquirt is gonna be your friend on getting tuning for fuel and ignition without busting the budget too much.

I don't think you'd be able to pull 250 hp out of it, but you can definitely get 200, and I know you don't have any problems with tire roasting, if you need em to spin more just add more tire pressure.

As for engine management, i thought about Megasquirt, or emanage. There is a blue locally with software but the harness is all hacked up Its only $100.

I want to see pics of your awesome fab work. Lets see the filler-rod mounds. Fabricating turbo manifolds is easy, its just hot pipes with air in them.

and I hate reading my rants to see errors that compromise my intellectual integrity...but considering the subject's company, I could transcribe a conversation from my child-hood miniature Yorkie and convey intellectual superiority.

really fuckin hot air....

ok, let me clarify.. i never said I was the one fabricating.. access to these things doesnt mean im the one fabricating..

"Hey dude, I have access to a TIG!"

translation:

"I am going to pay someone to weld this for me. I've never felt a woman."

With a 400lb vibrational nightmare on one end, and a 15lb turbo at the other, which also has 12 ft of exhaust leveraged against it.

IT'Z ALL JUST PiP3ZZZZ!!!!lc

I think maybe one person on this forum has done that...and he used bandaids and lots of crappy welding.

I did it, with real engine management and a kit that bolted up in 6hrs, for $2k.

Keep saving, make life easy on yourself. Or just be delusional and never know what it's like to crush the ego of the asshole in the $30K car he thinks is fast.

That's like saying "it's all pink on the inside" to justify fucking fat chicks.

fixed

Realistically, if you want to drift this car and make it through at least 3-events or so, you'll need a $3500 kit from ABSURDflow with TiAL parts, either a used $200 "radiator barn" like mine or a trackspeed radiator for $500, $100 oil cooler, $200 or so in fittings and oil lines for the turbo and oil cooler, $500 for MS in any capacity at a minimum, $100 in heat shielding, $350 clutch ($1k if you want the badass 949 clutch), $500 for a 6-speed, and a few others that I've forgotten.

Sure, there are probably people out there running FM or BEGi manifolds, but they aren't running them for long without working on them and the turbo is rarely if ever sealed to the manifold. Some new tech was pioneered over here that may change that, but this does not change the frequent warping of cast iron. Tracking a turbo car reliably is not cheap. I have the wrecked bank account to prove it and I'm nowhere near competitive.

awwwe, look...those meanies at the turbo forum just answered your questions, even though you are insignificant and generally rude. You better kiss my ass or I'm going to delete that shit and ban you. I'm also plugging your GF, btw. She's a whore, and has very large sex organs, and clearly accommodated several reproductive organs from basketball teams.

:bowrofl:

Actually I did it. Course I managed to pick up a steal bargain when Flyin' Miata had a AVO kit, minus intercooler turbo and management for 400 dollars. So add T25 that I rebuilt myself, add Megasquirt and a bargain for $60 dollar bar and plate intercooler, and I have a very nice quality build for cheap.

No my gf left me because im an asshole, she could possibly be a whore. thank you i dont know much about turbo charging a car.. im not an expert fabricator, i can weld im not great at it but i can.. trust me i dont want this to look like the 1.8 car that some kid built and i bought.. the manifold leaks so bad that it never actually hits 3psi.

That in itself is pretty impressive. With the waste gate wired open mine still hit 6psi when I didn't have an exhaust.

Seriously...go through the build thread subforum.

There's a pretty damn awesome tube front drifter build that's almost wrapping up as well. Way outta your budget, but more impressive for the fab work than the money thrown at it.

I try not to read my build thread because it hurts to see all that money I spent go down the shitter.

CTdrft, yea i know about the build.. its been going on for like 2 years now, the thread is on another site,

He's doing it right with big bucks.

The above advice about checking out build threads is very good. You will get to see the progressions of builds and see what worked and what didn't. Look for a thread that may be in that section or elsewhere by DVCN called "DIY preliminary results" and see an example of what can be accomplished on a budget.

Reading threads and using search terms will be your friend. There are years of trial and error and innovation in these threads. Many of these guys are engineers of various types. And at least one of them is a dangerous bureaucrat.

There you go...

Rule #1 of MT.net, we do not talk about drifting

Rule #2 of MT.net we DO NOT talk about drifting

No but seriously we do not talk about drifting. If you want cheap, you're gonna have to give up some quality. Why not better piece your shit together little by little instead of pissing money away on cheap shit that will most likely break and have to be replaced down the road when you can do it right the first time?

With that said take a close look at the built thread; my built thread for example will show you Wayne_curr's work, which is fucking awesome btw :bigtu:. Look at ARTech's FS thread his work is tits also. Tim's work is the most ballerz, and proven at the track by the MT track whores (hustler, Savinton, thesnowboarder... etc)but it will cost you some coin.

The search button is your best friend here.

im going to get stikars made for my car.....

one is going to say DEPOSIT with and arrow pointing to the driver-side TSI and one that says WITHDRAW with an arrow pointing to the tail pipe.

of coarse there is like a 20% hidden fee when you withdraw because of part depreciation :giggle:

its only okay to speak of it when your a pro with a license like (TURNS101) or you have dropped some big coin like (ctdrftna) and one other circumstance........only if you have proven yourself. even then its barely okay just like fucking a 18 year old on the day she turns 18.

Definitely vouch for ARTech manifolds, etc....beautiful high quality! I would definitely suggest to the OP to check out Brain's DIY FAQ thread on here it proved VERY helpful to me and I wouldn't consider myself too bad of a noob lol

True. btw i dont see why banging a 18 year old in her bday is wrong :naughty:

Aaaaaaahhhhhhhhh skeet skeet skeet skeet! That's pretty.

hahaha i never said it was wrong.....its just barely legal :giggle:

btw, all you guys that mention t25 or t2 turbos, he never said anything about those turbos. he said he had access to a 16g turbo. i made almost 300whp on my dsm with one. so 200-250 should be possible for a 1.8.

also, drifting isn't quite as hard on the mani.,studs/bolts,etc.., as a trackday.
generally a drifting run lasts as long as an auto-x run.

lastly, op, please tell me one of those 240's drifting is you and prove it, otherwise everyone else is right and you are full of shit. posting pics of other people doing what you claim to be, and pics of a track that you've never drifted is exactly the type of response to getting flamed that a poseur, hardparking ****** would post. generally BUT not limited to cr.net (because there are some cool/smart peeps over there)

the dark green 240 isnt mine, its a friends, i drive it all the time, im driving in top picture the 2nd one is the owner of the car.. the 3rd pic is dennis. the red miata is my old one with the 240 owner driving my car, 4th pic is matt waldin..

this was awesome to watch
Attachment 198457

I have a 1.6 not a 1.8 so who makes the best manifold.. I could, pull the 1.8 out of the other miata i have, i have the entire car so im sure everything i would need i would have.

Would it just absolutely kill you to search? There are only a few off the shelf manifolds for 1.6 or 1.8 cars and everyone will tell you something different. Some people want tubular, some people want cast, its all about what you are going to do with the car. Read some build threads and figure it out.

Fuck, I'll even make your life easy.

1.6:
Tacotaco(ebay cast)
Begi/FM
Greddy
ETD
JGS log
Ebay

1.8:
HKS
Fm/Begi log
Begi tubular
Ebay tubular
JGS log
ETD
SLS

Oh, and BTW, you do realize that letting your tampon hang out and crying to the other kids at roadsterdrift makes you look like a complete pussy right?

Edit: I smell a troll.

Matt Waldin :cjerk: