Serper3

iTrader: (3)

I have a 99 miata with the lc1 wideband and the db gauge. today, i rewired the connections and its still recalibrating everytime the ignition goes off and on.
i have all the grounds connected to one wire, and running to the motor, the grounding point next to the throttle body.
i suspect this is ground related but am not sure what to do.. all the connections are soldered together except the final wire going to the ground plate next to the tb.
any suggestions guys?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

You have the LED and pushbutton switch hooked up?

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

...i did. recently took it off. it blinked when the car just turned on, then when it stopped calibrating, the light would come off..

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Where's that wire that the pushbutton was connected to going now?

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

the black wire coming off the lc1 is just disconnected now. this made no difference in the past. from the lc1 manual:

"Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK
calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1.
Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate
Motorsports’ XD-16 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the
wire out of the way."

the thing is, this has been going on for the entire time i had the lc1 on the car. i havent been running boost yet, i just thought it was a bad ground. today, i re soldered the wires making sure the connections were good.. and problem persists.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

make sure that black calibration wire isn't touching anything.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Are you sure it's recalibrating? Mine looks like it recalibrates, but it actually waits for the heater to heat up...it's like a 60 second period or something like that.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

hmm... well before when i had the led hooked up, it would blink for the first 10ish seconds and while it did this, the wideband display would count up from a low number.
is this normal or does this sound like its recalibrating?

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

anyone? possible ideas?

should i just get an aem uego? were is the best place to get one? i really dont want to spend more money though for something that i have that should be working...

Stein

iTrader: (46)

My AEM UEGO gauge blinks a couple of times and then counts up 111,222,333 etc. every time I start the car if that is what you mean.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

hmm.... ****, i wonder if thats normal. i read though that that means its calibrating.. maybe not?
i guess i will do more reading and see if this is normal, which i doubt. i can also hook it up to my laptop and see what it really is doing too. the sneaky sob... lol

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Mine blinks and holds like 9.8 on gauge for 10sec, then light holds steady and gauge displays 21.8 upon start up (without starting motor).

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

from the manual:
1. Blinking steady about 2 times/second: Warming up
2. Blinking steady at about 4 times/second: Heater calibration

so i think mine actually might be ok.. just deffective user.. jk lol.
i will still hook up laptop to be sure everything is fine.. still havent seen anything about counting up, but it seems like this might be normal...

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I don't have a LED display. I have, I think it's the "G3" gauge, which is a analog. When I turn on my ignition and start the car, the gauge sweeps from rich to lean and back again, then it reads all the way rich for about 60 seconds? After that, it reads the correct AFR.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Without the XD-16 it's hard to be certain. When I power mine up, after a few flashes of the display it counts up from 1 to 99 to indicate the heater warmup. This process takes anywhere from 10 sec to a minute, depending on whether the sensor had already been warmed up. After the warmup, it starts outputting valid data.

Put it another way- if the sensor were recalibrating while the engine were running, ****'d be way out of whack. But it seems from your description that it functions normally after warmup, yes?




Serper- DO NOT replace a perfectly good LC-1 with an AEM. The correct upgrade path is to replace a perfectly good AEM with an LC-1, and you're already at the top of that pile.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

or you can how to laptop up to logworks and see what it's doing...