over the radiator intercooler pipes on a NA ?
 

Hi all is it worth it to modify the bonnet / crush the ic pipes up a bit to fit over the radiator IC pipes on a NA ? I seen lots of pics of it done on a NB - few on a NA

My intercoolers piping connection points up or down - for ease of install - over the radiator would be best but it would mean hacking the bonnet - any insight welcome or more pics - I seen the trackdogracing and it looks neat but is it worth it - I know the theory behind charge pipe length

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t16406/ Check out the second picture. This is how I'll do mine, but I'm currently checking and I think that with 2" pipe you don't even have to cut anything

im going to be doing this soon. 2 inch piping is what im going to use. when im done, ill post pics.

leather - you think the bonnet will be needing much "manipulation" even with 2 inch or will it clear down those holes in front of the radiator with no issue ?

no need to cut with 2.5" either

Yeah but you moved your rad no? I'm talkink about pass the piping in the holes by the side of the hood release system

I have an over-the-rad setup with 2" pipes. I also have an AC dryer under one hole, and the ABS-car wiper fluid tank fill tube under the other, so I had to move the rad to make it work. I will say, though, that I'm in the market for a different IC setup, so I can squeeze in a bigger rad.

We need moar pix! :cool:

Moving the rad a little isn't exactly rocket science. Likely as easy and cleaner than cutting the bracing on the hood.

sigh...Curly to the rescue...yet again.

you can do it without moving the radiator, and with a larger one (I don't have the godspeed one, but the other one, the mitshibishimotojobie one)

But I cut reliefs in my hood, it kinda sucks cause 1. its a little ugly. 2. its hard, you're right next to outer skin, so if you go too deep you ruin the exterior look of your car.

I'm using 2" pipe btw, and it doesn't quite fit correctly, both edges of the hood are flared up slightly, but that's without crushing/deforming the pipes at all. I'll get pictures when I can. might be harder done than said, its a little bit torn apart right now...

Still, I prefer that method : https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...-jan08-002.jpg

Looks way cleaner than cutting the hood brace and moving the rad. But it seems in that picture that the owner lowered the rad.

what is that, a sheet pan bolted to the bottom of the hood? bitchin...

Dunno lol. May be it's like miror ceilings for better sex?:giggle:

good info guys - I have ac but no abs and dont want to relocate the radiator - slight massaging of the hood braces I can live with and cover up and make neat with some fibre glass - but obviously would prefer not to

has anyone got pics from inside the engine bay to the hoods front edge when its closed to actually see how much clearance there is ?

with an un-cut hood and un-cut hood latch support 'deck', there's next to no clearance, as in less than an inch. Thats for the area directly above the holes that are already there, which many of us use for our pipes. There's room right behind that area, which is where the radiator is, and is why people move it back.

Take a look at how much he had to cut the cross beam. Yikes. I'd like to see some reinforcement there.

Just a thought, has anyone tried using oval pipes? You can get a transformer pipe from round to oval.
How about a fully silicone hose over those areas and force the hood closed. The heat and the pressure should form the silicone over time.

is this even necessary on a turbo car?

Anyone have links to the discussion on this?

Thanks,
Gaylord

I love this setup Track Dog :bowrofl: or this diy .The only wrong thing its not my car :cry::cry:

That's how I plan on doing mine...through the holes in front of the radiator.

Haha. I'm going around the radiator like you folks have never seen before. Well, one guy with a NA did it, but he had to remove his headlights for it to work. Not on my NB.

If you look close eider of douse setups require to move the radiator back Track Dog IC setup require to move even the A/C radiator back and only a lintel bit of cutting

Though it is not exactly the same as an NA, on my NB i dropped the radiator about 1.5" and tilted the top about 6"-7" towards the engine; this is with a 2" thick core oversized radiator and the stock A/C condenser. I have an over the top intercooler setup with 2.5" tubing, , and it clears the hood with no cutting.

Seems like you could do the same on an NA though you will have to fab some lower radiator bracket extenders. But that is no big deal IMO. You will also need slim fans.

I removed my hood latch assembly and will be feeding the ic pipes through the center part. I had to cut the underside of my hood but then again, im not using a stock hood :)

Again, I have a NB, but the idea is the same. Really, just move the radiator back. It is easy, and that is how TDR does it.

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Just cut your hood. It takes 5 minutes and if you're careful you'll be fine.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3151/...ce91d991_o.jpg

I didn't have to move my giant radiator either.

please, get that filter away from there. thats some counter productive thinking right there ^^

Cowpoke what intercooler are you using?

This is what I'm talking about...not moving the radiator.

between the iat sensor and filter, temps must be high no?

Not sure if I understand well but... correct me if I'm wrong but, the there is no link between the 2. The IAT must be as close as the manifold as possible to be sure that it reads the temperature of the air that enter the combustion chambers no?

I think he means to move the filter so that it is not right behind the radiator, in the hot air exiting the radiator.

that little kink on the TD setup that goes around the radiator hose is really key, I'm using straight pipe and one of those hump connectors, so it'll bend a little bit. its pressed right up against that radiator hose though. I don't know how you guys move your radiator, seems like if you did that S coolant hose would kink trying to go slightly backwards to connect to the head.

If I understand you correctly I have a solution for that; I found the perfect radiator hose at Auto Zone. I'll post up with more info later.

i have a filter right on my turbo and i only see about 130 deg IATs with a straion intercooler @12psi

The point is moving the air filter somewhere else where it can get cooler air will improve performance and system efficiencies. You wouldn't hook a hose in your cooling system bypassing the radiator would you? So why would you put the air filter where it can pick up heat dumped by the various heat exchangers and then send it back to be dumped again? The denser the air going in the turbo, the better. Granted, hot air intakes on turbo setups is common. But that doesn't mean it's ideal.

Yeah that's good. I'd be curious to know intake temp difference between the "filter behind rad" vs "filter at a more commun place" tough! Just to see if there is a big difference.

But in that low filter setup, I'd be woried more about water getting into it than the hot air it sucks.

Like this. Only I haven't cut the sheet metal out of the way to slide the couplers on. But you'll get the idea anyways. Invisible FMIC FTW.

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Will do a writeup whenever I finally finish this and get turbo'd. But this IC mounting method has it's advantages for NB's.

^^ Hey I seeeerioulsy considered something like that. Very cool to see someone trying it. If (when) it works I think that is a good option.

Haha, Nice pat!

OK here is the link to the hose I mentioned. I just posted this
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28071/

Great ideas for NB's!

Pics! 2.5" IC tubing, Rad dropped but not tilted. IC has angled side tanks with inlet/outlet facing up.

Had to cut support but used mounting plates welded on the 90's to add strength.

what about your hood? Any cutting? is that NB or NA? Where did you pick your intercooler?

no hood modifications, NA, Custom IC.

looks great man. im glad you went through with it.

An easy way to check clearances is to get modeling clay (I had to go to Michael's, I think, but now I have a four-lifetime supply for $3) and build a little tower of it wherever you're concerned about fitting. Close the hood or whatever, open it back up and measure the clay.