I got an idea too add. Anyone ever use time-serts? We used to use them for repairing stripped sparkplug holes and other things that heli-coils were just a bad idea to use them on. Link
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html My boss had a dragster, don't know what motor anymore, with a couple of these holding the sparkplugs in. Lots of compression and supercharger. Never had issues with them because they replace al the metal you stud engages on. |
Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 834058)
Any more info about your setup? Turbo/downpipe brackets/mounts, etc?
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Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 834142)
I torqued the studs in. Probably with more torque than that. The torque specs on the instructions say to torque the nuts to 15 ft lbs. Would overtorque cause these to come out? (I'm not sure how but I figured I'd ask) Measuring 15 ft lbs with a wrench in your hand is kind of hard.
I stopped going on hwy 9 after my first track day :giggle:. I don't really drive that hard on the street, my commute right now is a total of 10 miles a day. |
Originally Posted by TorqueZombie
(Post 834148)
I got an idea too add. Anyone ever use time-serts? We used to use them for repairing stripped sparkplug holes and other things that heli-coils were just a bad idea to use them on. Link
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html My boss had a dragster, don't know what motor anymore, with a couple of these holding the sparkplugs in. Lots of compression and supercharger. Never had issues with them because they replace al the metal you stud engages on. |
Heli coils are basically like a spring coil of wire. The time-serts are actually a collar or a ring with threads on the outside and the threads you want on the inside. It comes as a kit with drill bit, boreing bit?, tap, and insert tool. You drill the hole out that is fubar'd, used the little bore bit to make the top of the hole shaped right, then tap it with the supplied tap. The tap that come with the kit is for the outer threading on the time-sert. Then you use the little tool for inserting it into the new shiny hole, not the virgin you found down at the movie theater, and the time-sert has a locking mechanism that locks it in the hole. Voala, new threads! You can remove the time -sert with reverse drill bits or an extactor, but they usually never come out with normal use. I never seen it anyway.
Heli coils suck. They're cool for fixing holes things mount to. Like alternator bracket mounts, to radiator stuff. I've seen them mangle themselves in the hole after use, and they don't really like a lot of torque. Some love them-some hate them. They are easy to use and can usually be done on a motor in the car. I wouldn't trust them on anything but a lemons car to hold in a spark plug though. Helicoils basically use a bigger, but same thread pitch as what is in the hole already, so if it gets bound up they come out with studs/bolts. Timeserts use a differnt thread and thread pitch, and have some nasty teeth things that bind in the hole they use. Think of timeserts as a hollow stud and helicoils as a bandaid. |
Cool. I've never used time-serts. Need to check them out.
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Ive used Timeserts on blocks and transmission housing and they are a million times better than helicoils.
The only issue here, would the timeserts hold up to the heat from the manifold? Ive never used them on an exhaust manifold so I would be worried that the heat would kill them. |
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 834600)
No hard street driving and your studs loosen??
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The timeserts I was looking at were carbon steel. We used them to replace exhaust manifold to head stud holes with no issues. Also if it holds up to cylinder pressures/heat replacing spark plug holes I would trust it to hold a turbo on within reason. Never tried it. I'm overly ---- retentive to over building and I'd try it, especially before buying a new mani and way way way before Helicoils.
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I looked at doing timeserts when I drilled/tapped my BEGi manifold for Trackspeed studs and decided that there wasn't enough material around the holes... there are multiple versions of the BEGi and FM manifolds though so YMMV.
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Bolt the downpipe to the bellhousing?
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Originally Posted by mx592
(Post 834982)
Bolt the downpipe to the bellhousing?
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Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 834990)
This is what I was wondering about. Anyone experience more failures without this? I dont really want to do it if it's pointless.
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I put on a different manifold, same style, and the fit between the threads/studs is way smoother/snug.
I'm confident this will work but only time and a track day will tell. |
What is the difference between the tse stud kit and the fm one? Just the lock tite?
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it's resbond, much stronger than any lock tite available.
TSE is 10mm, FM is only 8mm. |
Originally Posted by blindboxx2334
(Post 838656)
What is the difference between the tse stud kit and the fm one? Just the lock tite?
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 838683)
TSE will tell you how much faster then spec miata times the cars they tested their inconel studs one, other companies have not ever released that data.
To summarize: Inconel > Steel 10 mm > 8 mm V-band > Studs of either size or type |
thank you for splainin that. and curley, i know i didnt call it the right name, i just didnt want to go look it up ;)
i was actually going to buy a precision v band in/out but decided against it since it was almost another 300 bones. i ordered this guy 2 days ago. so im assuming i'll need the 10mm eithe rway, and ive come to terms with the fact that im going to be poor as ---- when im done with this motor, but i'll sure have a cool car. so i wont sweat the extra 55 bones ;) edit: and i had no idea that these studs make your car 'faster'... why is that? |
Lol, no, they don't make you faster.
Keeping the turbo sealed to the manifold makes you faster, or at least your engine more powerful, and they obviously have a part in that. |
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