Possible to replace the BPV with a BOV?
 

So i have a voodoo kit from FM (with the intercooler) i was wondering if i could replace the recirc bpv with a Vent to air BOV. Any ideas?

Unpossible.

I bet if you did any sort of research on your own at all, you'd have arrived at the same conclusion. :)

yes, you can... if you like your car to fall flat-on-its-face when it richens up as you let off the throttle. I hear people really like that effect nowadays...

Rather hard to say that will happen without knowing full details of OP's car.

Mostly because on any management worth a damn, that won't happen.

And even on a lot of stock ECU cars, it won't happen with a BOV worth a damn.

OP, do you have any idea why that might not work?

I was assuming it was a stock ECU based on the question asked. lol
My AIDS miata with stock ECU was running atmospheric when i bought it, and it wasnt TOO bad, but the BOV actually sealed. I replaced it with a cheap Bosch recirc. shortly after, because my AFR's were basically 1:1.... :P

BUT ALSO... if OP somehow has a HYDRA (which i PERSONALLY would have mentioned in the first post. lol), i shall divert the comment to a ? instead, for spending 6 times more than necessarry. lol

DOLLA DOLLA BILL Y'ALL!!!!

what part of "voodoo kit" makes you think it has a hydra?

The part where OP proclaimed "I'm a REALLY smart shopper!"


Oh... wait.

I dont think it has a hydra... Thats why i said what i did in my first post. lol
Just throwing it out there JUSTIN CASE somehow he magically has one. lol

Maybe he was like... "Hmmmm... i have a $3000 turbo kit, maybe i should get a $2000 ECU to complement it?!?!?" :idea:

How does the "voodoo box" work anyways??? does it adjust injector pulse width or something?

Don't ask. It's voodoo.

yeah... I saw Skeleton Key... I dont wanna mess with that stuff... lol

To sum up what everyone else has said in a clearer way...

If you are running a stock EMS, then no, you can't switch to a BOV without negative consequences.

If you are running an EMS that will allow you to tune it, then yes you can. You will have to relocate the MAF to after the BOV, and tune it to make up for the loss of air coming in when you let off the gas.

sounds like you don't know what you're talking about. just like OP, you should probably post less and read more

next time, let others "sum up" kthxbai

PS: protip - there's no tuning involved, and there's no maf involved with what everyone's suggesting he do

Perhaps you can educate me then? :idea:

What everyone's suggesting he do is, not replace the BPV with a BOV. But, it IS possible to do. However, if you do it the MAF will be reading the amount of air before the BOV and add fuel accordingly, but the air won't actually make it into the intake, as it will be... blowing off, into the atmosphere. So moving the MAF to after the BOV would have it reading the actual amount of air that'll make it into the intake.
Then, because there will be less air after each shift, the fuel will be adjusted accordingly. Since there will be a different amount of air and fuel coming in, it should be re-tuned to optimize it.

If I'm wrong, I'm all ears... but that's how I've always understood this to work :brain:

Still not what they're talking about.

Most popular ems' use speed density. This means it calculates fueling based on pressure and temperature, not volume of air like what a MAF does. It gets rid of the MAF altogether, and requires no special tuning at all to accommodate the bov.

So its actually even more simple than what you're suggesting :)

lol @ MAF.

OP if you have MS you can rule the world. If not, you are stuck with your bypass, and can't hang with all the supras with loud BOVs.

Well, I suppose that's what I get for assuming that the MAF wasn't replaced. I don't see anything on FM about there being a SD sensor in the Voodoo kits, though... but I've also never bought one.

Even with the SD you'd still want to move it to after the BOV though right?

no. you take it off and throw it in the trash....where it belongs.
which is what "they" were talking about.

now,

if you're on stock ecu and bandAIDZ (aka voodoo box) then yes you are stuck with attempting gay work-arounds like moving it post bov to make it feel less crappy. but its still not going to fix the issue properly

so basically this thread is about OP ditching aids and getting a proper ecu like a man :)

Map sensor. As in manifold air pressure. As in senses pressure not flow. As in you run a vac line to the map sensor. As in no you don't have to move it.

Assuming "it" is the MAP sensor. If "it" is the MAF sensor you don't need it, as stated above. If "it" is your penis, still remove it.

lol speed density sensor.

there's a new one hahaha

this is why I told you to read more post less

FTFY

Well there's no way for me to find out I'm wrong on something without posting and being corrected.

I'll go Google around and study up on the workings of speed density :vash2:

Good.

it will benefit you greatly and you'll come to the conclusion that you want megasquirt for your soon to be boosted NB :party:

One step ahead of you... my MS3 will be here before the weekend :dealwithit:

Definitely need to read up on speed density, as I guess that's what I'll be using. The MS I got is coming with an IAT, so I've got that covered at least... now to look into how to delete the MAF? :hustler:

You take it off.

....aaaand you're done.

And then you can fill it with a low durometer poly, cut a slit in the middle, pop that bitch in the microwave for about 5-8 seconds, squirt in some Energy Suspension poly lube, and go to town.

It's a good time. Best use of a MAF, hands down.

One could probably make a speed density sensor right? Just a sensor that that threads into the manifold and has a pressure sensor and a temp sensor with enough insulation to not be affected with heat soak.

I mean not practical, but doable

I'll save you the 2 minutes I spent measuring and hopefully the 2 days I spent not ordering correctly.


You want one of these: Silicone Turbo Hoses

And 2 of these: Turbo Piping

They only have an 'add to cart' button, so for the joiners make sure you change the number to 2 before you checkout. I didn't and got 1 joiner and 1 coupler, cost me an extra $10 in shipping for the second joiner.

The 2 joiners are a bit long, in my car they are touching in the middle of the coupler, but for N/A it will do. Also the GM IAT sensor won't fit in the stock NB IAT sensor hole, so wrap that bitch in electrical tape until it does.

I'll probably do it more correctly whenever I get a turbo set up... for now, I went with the more ghetto way of just disconnecting the MAF, breaking out all the plastic in the MAF housing, and drilling a hole in the side to screw my AIT sensor into :rofl:

I do appreciate the link though... will save 'em for later in case I decide I wanna drop a few bucks to do my intake right.

Why in the world would you do that? I have no clue what the fuck you're trying to do.. you say you got an MS3.. why the fuck are you fucking around with a MAF? Run the fucking temp sensor in the intake, the MAP in the manifold and tune the fucker. Fucking toss a filter in the middle of this bitch behind the headlight or somewhere.

You must've read what I said wrong...
I'm not using a MAF. I said I hollowed out the MAF housing to use it as a place to install the AIT sensor (the stock air box was removed and replaced with a cone filter).
Pretty sure the MAP sensor is built into the MS3 (I ran a vacuum line from the intake to the MS).

Exactly you dont need the maf housing to install the temp sensor. You can bolt that shit anywhere. Zip tie it to the outside of the filter. For a NA car it will work fine since u dont have a turbo to heat up the air after that.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380396355

Oh well I'm guessing you had no clue but the maf sensor goes for 150-200 ish bucks.

I know I don't NEED to mount it there... but if I were to remove the housing all together, I'd have to replace it with some other hard tubing, or I wouldn't be able to attach the filter. So out of convenience of having the MAF housing already, I just used it. Plus it looks pretty :drool:

Didn't know I could flip it for that much :2cents:, but it's far too late now... YOLO :dealwithit:

I recently discovered that unless you don't care about scalpel like precision in your tune, or proper mat enrichments, it needs to be in direct airflow or it will cause all kinds of inconsistencies. Had it just laying in the bay for a couple days of tuning, then put it inside the filter. Much more consistent now.