PTP Turbo Blanket
 

Hey guys, I've not yet seen this for he EFR turbo though I'm sure it's been out for a while. What's the general opinion on them? Worthwhile investment? I do need to build a heatshield, but the top mount turbo kind of warms everything around it, and melts many things too. I have a Garagestar brake master brace with the delrin end, which melted at the track.

http://ptpturboblankets.com/EFR-Turbo-Blanket.html

There's also this

https://www.driven-fabrication.com/p...-turbo-blanket

General consensus on mt is that we do not care for turbo blankets. There are some older threads you can search for that have a ton more details. Building a real metal heat shield is the preferred method.

blankets are debatable.

heat shields are mandatory on track cars.

Vlad owned a Subaru, so wanting a turbo blanket is still engrained in his blood.

Heat shield is very mandatory. I made mine out of license plates. It's not perfect but it works.

@sixshooter and @patsmx5 have some good heat shield solutions.

DIY tarbo blanket on the wrx, none on the miata. There used to be one on the miata, but it caused a wee fire.

never used a blanked before. so.......
I've installed em on lots of cars tho, and they do work, and have yet to personally see a failure as a result
I do use heat shields on every single car tho. No matter what

that part we all agree on

So the heat shield to block off the brake booster and that corner of the bay is mandatory. Aside from that, should I attempt to build some kind of box over the entire turbo and down pipe area, just leaving the air filter exposed? I do have a louvre that ends right at the inlet to the turbo.

I run a turbo blanket, but I also don't track my car. At some point I may install a heat shield but I was fiddling so much with my turbo that I never bothered installing the one I had.

yes, ideally if you can box in the hotside and dp as much as possible

Doesn't mean they don't turn you on.

I'll have to look into this, thanks. Wonder if lining the inside of the box with some of that reflective tape would further help keep temps down. Also gotta think what I could attach the box to. Do people usually attach it to the valve cover/manifold to keep the turbo from moving around inside when the engine moves, or do they frame mount it and leave wiggle room?

On the body. Too much vibration on engine. And never to both(sorry if too obvious). Look at the Flyin Miata website for their kit instructions, and you can get a feel.

My car doesn't have a heatshield. I tried to get one, but it doesn't fit the artech setup. I wrapped my downpipe, but the turbo is nice and toasty and convects through the hood vents a lot as though I where in a perpetual mirage.

Fabbed up a box made out of mirror-polished stainless ( ). It covers the turbo and DP and is bolted to the shelf and the prop valve mount. Seams are done over with heat-tape and there's a layer of "lava mat" on the side next to the MC.

Simple but effective.

this is not really something you gotta go outside the box on (pun, teehee) as both FM and BEGi have been making really effective heat shields for years.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460466583



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460466583

This material works extremley well, it has ceramic fivers sanwiched between two aluminum sheets, it was the best performing heat shield i tested when testing heat shields at 3m


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460468834

Aluminum Rigid Heat Shields | Thermal Control Products

I was so hoping their s4 shield would fit.


Alas, failboat

Shielding is mandatory, but blankets keep too much heat in the housing for anything other than light street use.

Boost Lab rebuilds hundreds of turbos a week and Kirk has indicated that the hot side oil seal is always cooked and coked on units with blankets. He said often the hot side bearings showed damage due to excessive heat and coking in a way that non-blanketed units did not. A simple metal shield to stop radiant heat (think sunlight's direct rays versus being in the shade) will do the most to help protect components without overheating the turbo.

The internal wastegate flapper shaft on my Chinese turbo distorted and seized on two different exhaust housings prior to my discovery that the extreme heat (G-L-O-W-I-N-G under the blanket even after a long cool down lap) was removing the tempering from the metal and making the straight shaft get squiggly. It may not have happened if it was a Borg or Garrett but it isn't worth subjecting them to it for longevity reasons.

It was also extra hell on the studs but that's a different issue.

This is exactly what happened to my first CHRA. It was already on it's last leg and still worked. But with the blanket placed on it it was laid to rest.. so to speak.

I'll never use one again. :eggplant:

Slightly off topic but what about ceramic coating on the turbine housing. Can that be bad for the bearings/seals too? I was planning on having Swaintech coat my EFR turbine but haven't yet.

My swain is falling apart on the manifold collector. I question if I'll ever get this done again.

I would guess no since the turbine housing is semi separate from the bearings where as the blanket radiates the heat back under a nice cozy baking oven. Only the turbine goes into the housing :dunno: Good point though, doing only manifold & downpipe sounds ideal. :2cents:

*Side note, having it coated may allow more heat expansion & higher turbine flow. :naughty:

***And.... This thread https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...coating-75331/

Can't you send it back to have it repaired? I'd guess since it was at the collector, that was the hottest part and it over expanded from high heat.

Hmm.. Was that unused when you had it coated and is it stainless or mild steel? Seen a few people mention issues with it but not too many. Most stuff I've read was fairly positive.

I'd thought about getting a blanket too but am rethinking that now. Good thread.

They say there's nothing to repair that's the way it is. It'd have to be stripped entirely and recoated.

Mild steel, brand spanking new. They would have prepped it before application. Expensive for its run time.

Thats some BS. How many miles on that manifold.

:ugh: :nuts:

I see your point now.

So I wonder then what the point of the 'white on top' is if it's considered ok to flake like that?

Photos?

Here :eggplant:

Looks like blistering and/or dry spray, as it looks like bare steel under the coating (cant be sure from just the photos), and while it might just be the shadow from the lifted area, and the type of coating they used, it seems quite thick where it is flaking, and that is a common failure point with ceramic filled coatings, if excessive in mils it will crack/flake once in use.

I swained the EFR housing. Its cool to see everything white on the dyno except for the wastegate flapper arm glowing bright red. The swain was actually the only thing hold my turbo flange to my collector at one point because the stainless had cracked straight through. That shit was a bitch to grind off so I could weld it back together.

Never mind.

I found out they use a Zircotec type of coating, which is plasma sprayed. We do stuff like that along with TSA (Thermal sprayed aluminum), as such it tends to have a rough almost over spray like texture. With that being said, the flaking is NOT normal, and is a coating failure, the manifold should have actually failed before the coating assuming no high expansion materials were used in the construction of the manifold. How old is this coating? Most thermal sprays have extremely long life because they are 100% solids and those solids are almost always 100% composed of the single component, in this case ceramic, which is total inert to most chemicals etc so the most probable reason for the failure is poor surface prep or the sprayer not working right, in many cases not getting the material to temp resulting in poor flowout and surface contact, could also be surface contamination, something like oil or chlorides on the surface that was not cleaned before application.

Application was back in 2014. That being said the car hasn't been running for more than a year continuously due to blown motor and two rebuilds. It's seen one summer and a fall season. Sat out through winter

Can I sent to you for recoating? Swaintech doesn't want to touch this without another $250+ dollars. They've removed themselves from liability saying that it's still a superior coating since some of it is still present. (though I paid for all of the coverage)

LOL, good God, I would laugh in their face if they claimed that with me, it is not a superior coating if parts (large parts at that) have failed, and makes the rest of the coating suspect. A coating failure is a failure, no matter the size. This is the same as having your car painted and in a year the hood starts peeling, and then coming back and saying "but most of the cars paint is still intact and as such is still a superior coating". :bowrofl:

I give them props for the amount of spin they put on that though, that alone is amazing. Will also be sure to never send anything to them. Also, they can say what they want, that does NOT legally remove them from liability, you should definitely push back on this for them to recoat the item, free of charge. I would also request the coatings reports for your part, along with a copy of their Quality ITP (Inspection and test plan), this will probably put them on their toes and might get them to grant the recoat request, big time if they don't have one (or at least don't pencil whip one), because they then have no proof proper procedure was followed.

As for my shop, we do not deal with individual items, most of the stuff we coat are minimum 1,000sqft boilers etc etc, we cater to the oil and gas field, I am a certified coatings inspector for our south yard. Believe me, if the equipment could do something as small as a header, my headers would be coated already, they do have a field unit that uses a hand sprayer, but I have never seen it and as its a field unit I have no access to it....If I did, I would probably be making some side money. :cool:

Side $$ with employer's equipment is a good way to be unemployed.

For most people, probably.

My Swain from 2014 hasn't cracked like that but I haven't done as many track events as you have probably (just one for me). I do have the same type of thing where it looks like its almost growing hairs of sorts. The only place I have it missing is a spot where I wacked it with the wrench putting the manifold on, but it hasn't even chipped there. I wonder if there is any coating under the white that is perhaps working to insulate heat anyway, but that is pretty disappointing.

I'm definitely going to build a box for over the turbo and attach it similarly to the FM one as someone had suggested. Any suggestions for material to use? Thickness? Put any coating on that box? Maybe that shiny tape? Inside or outside or both?

There is no coating under, no need for it, the coating is plasma sprayed ceramic.

My friend just pulled something that looks like this from the bottom of a Mercedes SUV, it is just thin and I don't think has any fibers in the middle. We're going to use it for the time being.

The multi layer aluminum sheled works very well too, you will be happy with the results

It's just a single layer, came out of a Mercedes S-Class actually, buddy said it was near the fuel tank somewhere. Here's where we got so far, trimmed it and bent, just need to mount somehow. I'm not too sure this little piece is going to do a ton, so I'm not really trying 100% pretty since I'll probably upgrade it it something else down the road.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461419912

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461419912

There is also literally almost no room between the brake line and the downpipe to shove this piece through, so we'll probably have to make something else for that spot, or wrap the downpipe (maybe you can give some insight on whether that works or not.

That heat shield will do more than you can imagine. It actually looks quite trick.

Yep, I agree, looks great and should work very well.

Nice job on the heat shield. Did you find the material online or do you live in like Long Beach where S-class junk yards are probably a thing?

A friend works at Mercedes as a tech and lots of things get warantied. This is where the piece originally came from, the hump that covers the turbo is for the driveshaft support bracket.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461676068look at the hump on the right sideJust due to it's location,

Hey guys, so I got to thinking, I know there are downsides to using a turbo blanket all the time (moisture, etc.) but someone had suggested that I could use a turbo blanket at the track, and then just remove it for street use where I don't really beat on my car and don't have issues melting things, but still to build a shield to block the brake booster and such. It's really tight between the down pipe and the brake lines which are sleeved, so I think I may remove the down pipe and either spray it ceramic or wrap it or both. I am having a hard time with that shield that i started on, as far as where to mount it to.

I am going to try to run to a local shop Wednesday that fabricates things and see what they can build, but their first suggestions was also a blanket. They do a lot of drag cars, so maybe they tend to engineer things for short sprint races at the strip and not extended hard use on a road course.

If you use a blanket on a track car, you're gonna have a bad day. The turbine seal gets cooked, the turbo bearings get cooked, the oil gets cooked, and the attaching hardware gets cooked.

Many drag cars don't even use radiators. It's a different type of endeavor entirely, like using a dogsled on a ski jump. Yeah, both are on snow so it's got to be similar, right? Sometimes you need pizza and some times you need french fries.

If you don't have heat shielding on your street car you are going to have a bad day.

http://2.images.southparkstudios.com...pg?quality=0.8

I am trying to have shielding on a streetcar, I have a lot of interference because artech lol.

Does he not account for that stuff? The only tight spot is really between the downpipe and brake line.

So a friend of a friend ended up making this to start. We might add more to it or re-shape it depending on how it peforms Wednesday

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462805295

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462805295May lengthen the part between the brake lines and downpipe

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462805295

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462805295


I will say that the brake fluid reservoir felt cooler than usual yesterday after a drive.

Nice! :bigtu:

I will buy one from you

PMing you his details