Reppin651's $320 turbo kit
 

Hello all, I’m new here but have been boosting Hondas for a while. I sold my 98 civic turbo and bought this 91 RBG Miata. My first impression of a Miata wasn’t to great; it was slow, heavy, bad gearing for 80+ mph and didn’t really like the feel of the shifter for these tranny. However the convertible, rwd won me over... plus I didn’t have to worry about it getting stolen compare to hondas:vash:. None the less here it is. It's a little higher mileage but runs great before I decided to boost her.

My parts so far consist of as follow:
DSM t25 turbo-$FREE!
Egay mani/dp-$150
Egay bov-$20
Intercooler-$60
Piping-$40
Misc-$50
Total spent-$320

I wanted to retain the a/c so I did the over the rad intercooler piping and had to mod the brackets pretty bad... but its functional lol.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/IMG_1405.jpg
the car

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata001.jpg
front

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata002.jpg
radiator

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata003.jpg
Just enough space for the condenser to fit between

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata004.jpg
bov

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata005.jpg
Hot side

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata006.jpg
Had to modify the wg bracket lol

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata007.jpg
$5 brace to support the turbo

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata009.jpg
turbo

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e/miata010.jpg
Another shot

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...miata12161.jpg
fmic

Still need injectors and megasquirt, but I'm happy with the $320 spent lol probably be able to buy a mani with that only. I'm not worry about it cracking because I was going to weld and brace the heck out of it later.

nice build for 320! what did you use for piping and diameter did you use for the IC? Lookin to do the same thing for my setup.

What about fuel/timing?

I order a 180 bend a 4ft pipe, only needed about 1ft from the 4ft pipe. Its 2.25''

Not bad! Not good. But not bad!

I have dsm 450s laying around but I'm waitng till I get megasquirt

I = can't read. Good job so far. I love cheap DIY themes.

Heavy? wtf was the curb weight of your honda?

I know and he doesn't like the shifter either. 2 reasons people love miatas haha.

Nice for the $320 ...... But miatas are heavy??? Shifting sucks?? :bsflag:


Good luck getting your project finished. Post more pics once you do so.

As for the heavy part... yea I think he is just smoking some crack, or just really dislike the stock 95 whp.

As for the shifter, I am betting his bushings are just shot as it is a 91.

WTF +10 on Heavy and shifting... Even a worn out bushing shifter in one of these is better than that rod/cable garbage FWD cars use where you can't even FEEL the transmission.. Just opinion.


Nice build, though.

That is ugly! I like it.

lol my honda weights about 2000lbs/200whp>2000lbs/100whp. And I like the feel of my civic shifter, a lot more firm, just a preference I guess. I just got done with it yesterday, had to take out the old studs from the cat and put smaller one in to bolt up to the egay dp that rubs against my tunnel wall.

jesus christ are those home depot toilet bowl couplers?

You'll want to use better couplers than those drain connectors. They soften and will slip when hot. What is that you're using for oil feed? Does the brace have heim joint ends? What are you going to do for an intake/filter? how much did you have to modify your hood?

I'd like to see how much power you can make. I'm gonna be using the same turbo, but couldn't find any miata related info for it. Dsm guys say its good for 250hp (on a 2.0L). 200hp seems attainable. Here's my setup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...R/DSCF3556.jpg

I think clocking it would have saved you a lot of cutting/welding. I didn't have to modify the wastegate bracket/actuator either.

Sprayed your welds on your pipe look just as nice as my future mani/DP!!! lol

Gotta love the cheap and effective megan racing parts even if they dont fit gj man. As for the shifter pull that sucker up and see if your pivot ball isn't worn then if it is replace it or the whole shifter, im betting its worn allowing more slop than usual i know mine is pretty much solid where ever i stick it. Gl man

I with him on the shifting part though I have a 6 speed I still like the way my honda integra type r shift. I have owned 12 cars and I dislike the shifter on this car the most out of all them.

you honda guys are some weirdo fucks, would rather feel the notching of the shifter cable than feel the lever pivoting in the transmission turret?

Whatever floats your boats, rite?

I'm not a honda guy I was just agree with him. I am a chevy guy I just don't like the way the shifter feels in this thing.

There is nothing better than the shifter on the tranmission. I have no clue why anyone would like shift links

To answer your question yes I'm using cheapo coulpers, but I welded a bead around the end of the pipes so they should hold up. I've used they on other projects and after a boost leak test they held up 15psi no problem. I did the same thing your doing, routing a u-pipe back to the afm. I did have to notch the hood, but it was real easy because of the thin aluminum hood. I'm using a -3 oil line hooked up to the original oil line from the turbo with just a small pvc hose clamp. And yes the brace are helm joints, one side mounted to the moter mount, the other to the bolt connecting the turbo and dp.

Im shooting for about 250, but I'll be happy at about 220ish. Probably need about 20 psi to get to 250 with these small turbo, but its a lot more fun to drive for a dd than a big turbo with major lag.

Yes I wanted to clock the turbo but the c-clip that holds the compressor housing was rusted on... best thing I could do was clock the whole assembly. I'm debating if I should trim the fin of the engine frame to clock the turbo more so I can get a perfect straight doen flow of the return line.

It seems like a tight fit for a u bend, but it could just be the angle of the pic. If you want to clean up the oil line later all you need is a $5 inverted flare 7/16 -24 to -3an brake fitting. As far as the cartridge angle, i believe garrett/turbonetics recommend no more than 15 degrees off vertical, so if you're within that it's fine. You shouldn't have to trim anything to clock it though.

Sent you a pm about the brace, hopefully you can receive pm's.

I like some Toyota and Honda cable shifters a lot, too. And I've driven the balls off more cars than most people will drive at all.

Buy a mazdaspeed short shifter. Best feel ever.

I used to think my miata was SOOOOO light, then I found out that a civic hatch with the carpet and rear seats removed is like 1800 pounds.
There is a lot of weight that goes into making the miata rigid because it is a convertible.

I used to hate on hondas too, I thought they were all ricers, then I started working on them and I found out that they can be moddified so easily and when you put the right parts in them they are pretty much the fastest car for the money... ever.

My friend had a crx fully stripped I'm talking everything nothing but a steering wheel and gas pedal. It weight 1602 with him in the car and gas. The car was making 314whp on a stock internal with a gsr b18c. I have owned my share of honda's and they are cheap to make go fast and have a huge aftermarket support. But the Miata is way more fun to drive why do you think I traded my 98 integra type R for a 2001 miata and I have way more fun driving this car. Rear wheel drive convertible over a front wheel drive hard top and day. Only Honda I would ever buy again is a S2k but I am not going to do it I'm gonna get a c6 corvette instead.

Ugly welds but nice to see someone doing it on the cheap. I'll be interested to see how much you have to put into the project if you are trying to go 15+ psi.

For the Honda argument RWD > FWD.

Hows the mani holding up?

"Why can't we all just get along?" but seriously I drive my 1992 Honda civic 4-door every day, cause the wife don't agree with the kids riding in the trunk of the Miata :(. So i asked her to jump in the trunk and the kids ride up front, but that didnt go well either. Oh'well Thats life right.

For $320 you can't go wrong, looks good keep ballin on a budget :) Boosted

To be fair to Miata's, you have one of the heaviest, with ABS, PS, and AC. Give it help for christ's sake, remove all that, plus I don't think you'll be needing the airbox support bracket, that can go. And what are those tiny diagonal rods, did you tilt the rad back?

Still got to clean up the welds, all it needs is injectors and em and a tune roughly $1k more lol

So far so good, its in storage ever since and only seen about 100 miles

thats what i'm saying cant beat that for $320

I take trips down Mn so cc is nice, ps idk but dont want to mess with that. A/c is key, some days the top down or windows roll doesnt do it with. The rods hold the rad in place because its moved back two inchs to clear the room for the i/c and the condensor

that b18c won't last long at that kind of power. I also had a honda and thought it was great 1990 barbados yellow crx si. i thought it was the greatest car ever cornerd like it was on rails. but when it comes down to it the front wheels were doing the steering, stopping, and accelerating. not to mention this was about 8 years ago and my father bought a 96 miata. after driving that i was all about rear wheel drive.

BS. The b18c has been known to be beat on ruthlessly with 400+hp and stock internals. The last one I heard of broke because a girl did a high rpm 3rd-4th (edit: meant 3rd-2nd) shift over-revving the motor and bending valves.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2564039

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extra characters

cool. I love to see it done on a super-budget.

why do we suddenly argue this ridiculous shit on this forum? Time to let ban hamster out of the rolly-ball and thin the herd.

Why put the BOV on the hot side of the IC?

it doenst really matter that much

I thought it was pretty well accepted that it's better to have the BOV on the cold side.

i'm sure people have tried with success, however i saw a 302 hp b18c launch a rod after only 7000 miles. the 10:1 compression is just a bit to much. That said if you use LS pistons, over 300 is possible safely. Just my experience and i am not questioning yours.

why... I had way more room on the hot side, people suggested about 1ft from the tb is key but as you can see theres no room. Works either way

preference I guess, I daily my mazdaspeed6 awd with 300whp, solid motor and rear diff mouts, and I like driving my 91 miata better, its slow, but its much more fun...

With the turbo... miata hands down. So much more fun to drive now

WTF? Aim it down or to the passenger side, between the headlight. I'm assuming you'll use a cheapo bosch bov, as you don't seem to want anything flashy under your hood, and you don't want to spend a lot of money. They're $25 shipped on ebay, less if you're lucky, and are fairly small.

You want it right by the throttle body so when the butterfly valve shuts, the compressed air is shoved right out the bov, and when you open the throttle, the compressed air is already knocking on it's door, instead of 3' of pipe and an intercooler behind.

^+1

My understanding is that a BOV on the hot side is more efficient since a cold side mounted one doesn't account for the restriction of the intercooler. It may also help cool the intercooler for that split second it doesn't receive hot air and, since the BOV is right at the turbo, the remaining air lingering on the cold pipe would decrease next gear spool up.

In reality it doesn't matter, either is fine and there is no evidence of it being otherwise exists.

my ebay bov works fine and i trust it more than a plastic bosch bov

Curly your argument makes sense, but if you put it before the intercooler, the rapid decrease in air pressure inside the intercooler would chill it wouldn't it? I mean sure perhaps 1/1000th a kelvin or something. Its science, it works bitches.